Eat and be merry – but at your own peril?
By Edith Gott
The ninety days which have elapsed since January 1 will be
remembered, not so much as the winter of our discontent (though this has been
around too), as the Winter of the Mercurial Orange.
But Press and Pranksters notwithstanding, an unequivocal
lesson can be learnt from the fall and rise of the jaffa. How many of us really
know what we are eating? How many read the small print on the labels of processed
food? Would we know, if asked, what a small amount of butylated hydroxyanisole
does to a biscuit?
(Actually it keeps the shortening sweet - but who's to know that?)
With our ever-diminishing farmland and ever-growing population,
farmers everywhere must use pesticides, weed killers and chemical fertilizers
to keep abreast of the ever-increasing demand for both fresh, and processed,
foodstuff.
That some of the suspect ingredients from these chemicals will
seep into the root, leaf, ear, and pod of garden plants seems to be inevitable,
sooner or later. The prospect of even the ubiquitous wild blackberry being
contaminated by insect spray is a favourite target for the scare-monger
Processed food is handled so many times before it reaches
the shelves of the supermarkets in its appropriate containers that one marvels
at the expediency of preserving it at
all, let alone the possibility of contamination en route.
For example, consider the case of a certain jam-manufacturer
in County Cork, "a daecent man, t' be sure, though he comes from across
the wather." He imported fruit pulp from Holland; it came in huge drums
looking for all the world like drums of printer's ink. On arrival in Ireland it
was divided into three parts. One was infused with strawberry flavouring
(synthetic), another with raspberry flavouring (ditto), and the third
flavoured with something else (of
dubious origin). These mashes were appropriately bottled, with the addition of
wooden pips for the raspberry variety, and again sent back across the Irish
Sea. It turned up in the supermarkets of Lancashire.
QUESTIONABLE
Which brings us to the subject of preservatives and colouring.
Both of these, in food, can be questionable, if not downright dangerous. It is
a known fact that in this country laws governing the purity of food, and the
advertising of same, leave much to be desired. On the label it is not obligatory
to mention the amount of preservative used, or the specific colouring agent.
Sufficient unto the day are such evasive descriptions as "tested
Preventative" and "vegetable Colouring".
Now all preservatives destroy something - it might be an
enzyme or it might be the lining of your stomach. As for "vegetable
colouring" not all vegetables are nutritious, to wit, the cassava root.
Edible it is -after the poisonous juice has been extracted.
Mouth-watering delicacies which once appeared seasonally
have all but disappeared - that is, in their pristine state, because they are
with us always, in season and out, thanks to the Frozen Food industry. Sweet
corn in January, summer fruit for the thawing, river fish at the seaside, and game
all twelve months of the year. The freezer provides all things for all
appetites.. instant gastronomic
gratification.
Yet, are its delights unmitigated?
OBSERVE DIRECTIONS
Frozen foods are only as good as their brand names. The well-known
firms are first class, if directions are observed.
Even the frozen-in freshness of such products (notably fish)
will last for only so long; hence there is a time limit chart on every packet
of commercially frozen food - how many housewives buying hurriedly in the
supermarket, and storing it even more hurriedly at home, ever read this fine print?
For those who "freeze their own", handling is even
more important. How many people know, and scrupulously observe, the fact that
meat should never be re-frozen after it has been the least bit thawed - a fact
which even some butchers disregard? Does every housewife know that only prime
quality vegetables and fruit should be frozen, that even one damaged pea in the
pack can contaminate its fellows? In short, how many of us have "freezer
fingers"?
Far from giving away any secrets of the advertising copy writers'
profession, it might be relevant to mention how difficult it is to know for
certain what is contained in any processed food. Our laws do protect us to the
extent that suda-ash cannot masquerade as flour nor poppy seed as pepper.
But is it well known that cinnamon in its purest form (in
the Middle Ages the Arabs used spice, not oil, to hold us to raricom) is
practically unobtainable, and what passes for the real thing is cassia-hark? To
convince potential customers that one product is superior to all others is the
raison d’être of the professional advertiser. Even employing modern hyperbole
it would be difficult to pass off chalk as cheese, but it is possible to
bamboozle the public into buying the soya bean in any number of guises.
For instance, a sausage made of soya beans could be
described as a "meaty-flavoured, protein-packed all-in-one meal. laced
with aromatic spices to tease-the-taste -buds and enhance its true food
value".
Moral: never judge a sausage by its overcoat.
Soft words butter no parsnips, and for too long the
soft-pedalled ethics of our food advertising have been suspect. In the case of
the mercurial orange, it can be said that justice has been done, the orange is
re-instated and the jaffa is an honest fruit.
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