1932 Guide Book to the Channel Islands: Plemont to Corbière

A few more extracts from the 1932 Guide Book to the Channel Islands are given below. This was a kind of "Bradshaw" for the Channel Islands, telling visitors where to go, and what to see.
 
I remember when you could still get refreshments at L'Etacq at the Marina Restaurant, where we used to go as a treat on the odd Sunday, and I had egg and chips, being a creature of habit; this would be followed by an enormous knickerbocker glory for desert. There are just residential houses now, and the restaurant has gone, although I believe it does feature in one episode of Bergerac.

The Guide is rather rude about the coast at St Ouen - "desolate and weird"  indeed, and makes it sound like Death Valley. I think the lunar style landscope of La Rocque at low tide would be a more appropriate location for those adjectives.

The lighthouse, of course was manned. It is now automated. A fog horn sounds, but there is no longer the "firing of explosives" to warn mariners which seems rather unusual. The note about the rising tide was not heeded. There is today a plaque adjacent to the causeway which commemorates Peter Edwin Larbalestier, assistant keeper of the lighthouse, who was drowned on 28 May 1946, while trying to rescue a visitor cut off by the incoming tide.

1932 Guide Book to the Channel Islands: Plemont to Corbière
 
After ascending the gorge and reaching the high ground, we can walk across the common-like expanse (or take the road) to Grosnez Point, on which are the ruins of Grosnez Castle, 200 feet above sea-level. The only considerable portion still standing is the entrance gateway, but the design of the walls and buildings can be traced. Enclosed within wooden railings are pieces of old stone, carved at the ends.
 
There is no record of the date of this Castle, but the architecture is of the fourteenth century. From the Point the view of the coast, with black sheer cliffs on either side, is imposing, and here one gets the best views of the Paternosters, Sark, Herm, and Guernsey.
 
Eastward of the ruins a pathway leads to the head of a precipitous gorge, at the bottom of which the sea even in the calmest weather makes grand play as it frets itself into a white foam round the base of the cliff, and if the tide is low a curious natural bridge, the Pont de la Moie, will be seen by descending into the quarry to the right of the Castle.
 
We now turn southward, and in about a mile over the turf reach the Pinnacle Rock, a mass of granite rising vertically from the sea to a height of 200 feet, and connected with the mainland by a narrow ledge of rock. Shortly after, we rejoin the road leading to L'Etacq (refreshment room), a huge circular mass of grey rock rising from the beach. The adventurous can easily make the ascent.
 
To the south lies St. Ouen's Bay, the largest inlet in the Channel Islands. The village of Etacq snuggles at the base of the rock. Some visitors do not care for this side of the Island and call it desolate and weird. It is certainly the barest side.
 
The hills rise a little distance inland, and an expanse of grass-covered sand lies between them and the sea. A road skirts the beach, passing several towers and scattered cottages. The solid architecture of the latter exemplifies the necessities of the district. Only those who have experienced the full force of a south-westerly gale in St. Ouen's Bay in the depths of winter can understand what contrasting aspects this almost sub-tropical island possesses.
 
Midway along the curve of the bay is St. Ouen's Pond, a marshy pool formed by several small streams. Farther south, and about half a mile from the shore, stands La Rocco Tower, erected in 1800, near which is the only safe anchorage in the bay.
 
It was in St. Ouen's Bay that the Parliamentary forces, conveyed by Admiral Blake's fleet, successfully landed and overcame the royalist faction in 1651.
 
At the southern extremity of St. Ouen's Bay is Corbiere Point, which has near it - The Corbiere Lighthouse.
 
Access.-From St. Helier by railway via St. Aubin. Return fare, 2s.6d. first, 1s. 9d, second. Sundays and Thursday afternoons,1s 6d
 
A single glance at the sea at any state of the tide is sufficient to convince one of the necessity of a powerful light at this point of the coast. Corbière Lighthouse was built in 1874 on a rock which rises 90 feet above high water. The light, 135 feet above sea-level, is visible seventeen miles, showing white in some directions, red in others. In foggy weather an alarm bell, giving three strokes every 30 seconds, and the automatic firing of explosives, warn mariners of their danger.
 
At half-ebb tide a paved causeway between the Point and the lighthouse is exposed. At the farther end ninety-five steps lead up the rock. The public are not admitted to the lighthouse itself, but are allowed to pass round the lower gallery outside, which is an excellent point from which to view the wild and rugged scenery around.
 
Should the tide be rising, it is most important not to delay one's return to the mainland too long, as the causeway is covered with rising speed.
 
At Corbiere will be found the Corbière Pavilion hotel, Le t Chalet, and other refreshment places. The distance by road to St. Helier is seven miles. The railway terminus is quite near the Point. On the seaward side of the Corbière Tea Room a path leads down to the pretty cove of La Rosiere, in which are the Pirates' Caves and the Smugglers' Cave, the approach to which is rendered easy by a concrete path over rocks.

1932 Guide Book to the Channel Islands: Bouley Bay to Plemont

A few more extracts from the 1932 Guide Book to the Channel Islands are given below. This was a kind of "Bradshaw" for the Channel Islands, telling visitors where to go, and what to see.
 
It should be noted that the date for St John's Church is certainly wrong; all the Parish churches date from at least around the time when William was Duke of Normandy, some 200 years earlier.
 
I like the idea that the Devil's Hole had a figure which moved when someone pulled a string.
 
A few details on the book mentioned, "The Battle of the Strong" by Gilbert Parker. First published as a serial in The Atlantic Monthly in 1898, it was also published in book form in late 1898. The book is set in the Channel Islands, primarily during the period 1781-95, and opens with attempted invasion of Jersey by France in the Battle of Jersey. The title is derived from Ecclesiastes 9:11, "the race is not to the swift, nor the battle to the strong."
 
The hut mentioned in the Guide book comes into the story:
 
"If you had approached Plemont from Vinchelez-le-Haut, making for the sea, you would have said that it also had no habitation. But when at last you came to a hillock near Plemont point, looking to find nothing but sky and sea and distant islands, suddenly at your very feet you saw a small stone dwelling. Its door faced the west, looking towards the Isles of Guernsey and Sark. Fronting the north was a window like an eye, ever watching the tireless Paternosters. To the east was another tiny window like a deep loop-hole or embrasure set towards the Dirouilles and the Ecrehos."
 
"The hut had but one room, of moderate size, with a vast chimney. Between the chimney and the western wall was a veille, which was both lounge and bed. The eastern side was given over to a few well-polished kitchen utensils, a churn, and a bread-trough. The floor was of mother earth alone, but a strip of handmade carpet was laid down before the fireplace, and there was another at the opposite end. There were also a table, a spinning-wheel, and a shelf of books."

---

 
1932 Guide Book to the Channel Islands: Bouley Bay to Plemont
 
As the cliff path involves arduous climbing, it is wiser to continue by the road along the heights until Bonne Nuit Bay comes in sight. Away on the right is a huge bluff headland, Belle Hogue Point, sheer and bare but for a little grass. From the high ground there is a fine view of Guernsey. Near the point is a Chalybeate Spring, once famous for its miraculous virtues. Its water was said to promote remarkable fluency of speech, and even, if imbibed before sunrise, to make the dumb speak.
 
A road on the right leads down, past quarries, to Bonne Nuit Bay, or the cliff path leading off from the road on the left, which rounds the brow of the hill, can be taken. The latter affords a pleasant view of the bay and little harbour, and the row of barracks and dismantled fortifications.
 
To the west of Fremont Point, a good view-point forming the western horn of Bonne Nuit Bay, is "The Wolf's Cave", at the foot of a narrow rocky gorge running some distance inland. It is hard going both down and up. A direction notice declares the Cave to be " la plus Pitoresque et Romantique de Jersey."
 
The road crosses a deep granite quarry, and the Cave then lies away to the right. Admission to the path is gained by passing through a refreshment pavilion (charge, 3d,). There is then a long and, to ladies, rather formidable descent by steep zig-zag paths almost to the foot of the deep ravine, or " chine." Visitors are here met by the proprietor, who conducts them to an iron ladder leading down to the door of the cave and lights a torch, so that the dimensions and the weirdness of the cave may be appreciated. The best time for a visit is at half-tide or at low water. 'When the tide is up it is only possible to stand on the ladder and watch the waves surging up below. At low tide the sandy bottom of the cave is exposed, and one can pass through to the shore and see the Venus Bath (a very clear rock pool) and other objects. On regaining the top of the path, note the fine view of Guernsey, Sark, and the French coast.
 
The main road leads now to the village of St. John's, busy with the Mont Mado granite quarries (St. John's Hotel). Granite from here was used for the Thames Embankment. The pretty pink colour always attracts attention, and to the non-scientific eye the pink granite has a much more interesting appearance than the blue variety.
 
St. John's Church was built in 1204. The recent date on the spire refers merely to the cementing. Little more than half a mile from the hotel is Saline Bay.
 
Motor-buses run between St. Helier and St. John's, which is a good centre for exploring this part of the island.
 
Becquet Serrais, a village near the 3-mile point on the St. John's Road running northward from St. Helier (see Map), is locally known as Sion Village, perhaps from its Sion chapel.
 
By continuing westward along the road and then bearing off on the right we reach a little cove, between the two headlands of Sorel Point (left) and Ronez Point(right). This cove, being off the beaten track, is seldom visited, but should be more noticed. At half-tide a remarkable rock-pool, the Lavoir des Dames, can be found here, the sides are almost rectangular. So regular is the shape that many people declare it to be artificially made. Its dimensions are nearly 25 feet square, with vertical sides 15 feet deep. The water left by each tide forms a bath of remarkable clearness.
 
Before going to the pool, the permission of the farmer at Sorel should be obtained. From the Ronez quarries a pretty blue diorite stone is extracted.
 
The cliffs hereabouts are too sheer for safe walking near their edge. We can either walk round by the road, or cross the gorse and bramble-lined paths to the Mourier Waterfall. (The motors come along the lane.) The water falls over the smooth face of the cliff. Amateur photographers sometimes climb down, and for men the short descent is not difficult.
 
Immediately beyond, 7 miles from St. Helier, is "The Devil's Hole", or Creux de Vis. From the Mourier Waterfall a narrow path, skirting the very edge of the cliff, proceeds to the Devil's Hole, but should only be attempted by the sure-footed. The safest way is to take the path leading inland and turn off on the right down to the Devil's Hole. Rounding a dome-shaped hill, we reach a small refreshment house. Here threepence is paid for the right of descent (much easier than at the Wolf's Cave), and visitors can also see a caged black figure, with horns and tail, flap its wings and nod its head when a rope is pulled from the inside.
 
The hole, or creux, is a crater-like basin about 200 feet deep and 100 feet across. A wooden staircase gives access to the bottom, and a long dark tunnel leads out to sea. A " creux " is formed by the sea washing away a soft vein of rock or earth at the back of a cave. The earth or soft rock from above continually falls and is washed out by the sea until a creux is left. Another instance of this can be seen at Sark, where is the far-famed Creux Derrible. The descent to the Devil's Hole is perfectly safe, and the view of the tide rushing through the tunnelled entrance and over the great boulders which strew the foot of the creux is very fine. About half an hour is required to descend and return to where the motors wait.
 
Crabbe is the next cove to visit, and those who wish to see it must re-ascend the path and bear to the right, returning shortly to the coast again. The cliffs are finely formed, and the rocks are wave-worn into pinnacles and minarets. Descend to the beach by the fishermen's path down the narrow cleft in the cliff.
 
About a mile to the west is the famous Greve de Lecq.
 
Access: Those who are not following the rather difficult coast walk here described will probably reach the Greve de Lecq by motor or cycle. Cyclists should approach it via St. Mary's, and after passing the church take the first turning on the right, gradually descending a lovely valley, some two miles long, to the sands. Distance from St. Helier, 7 1/2 miles.
 
Hotel.-Greve de Lecq Pavilion.
 
In appearance this delightful cove closely resembles the North Devon combes, with steep grassy cliffs on either side and a deep wooded valley running inland. The Greve (greve = sandy beach) has varied attractions. Excellent bathing can be had, and the sand dunes are a favourite resort of picnic parties.
 
To reach Plemont we can continue by the cliff, passing Douet de la Mer, where there is a waterfall. Or we can go up the lane behind the Pavilion and bear round to the right. This brings us to the beautiful and much-photographed Vinchelez Lane, with its overhanging trees. After passing the old stone gateway in the wall of the grounds of the Manor-House, the backward view is charming.
 
For Plemont (Plemont Hotel) a lane leads off presently on the right. The motor vehicles run up to the hotel and make a sufficiently long halt.
 
In the adjacent small bay called Greve-au-Lancon are precipitous cliffs and a series of caves which can be visited without inconvenience at low water. To facilitate access to the caves, paths and bridges have been constructed, and for the use of these a fee of 2d is charged. As the bridges are descended, there are caves on the right, and beneath the bridges, and again a little distance away to the left.
 
Sometimes natural arches lead from one to the other, but all are interesting. The view seawards from the large cave, with the long pointed Needle Rock outside, is very pleasing. A passage leads from this cave to the pretty Waterfall Cave, in which a stream of water falls from the cliff above and makes a transparent curtain. This is at its best after a heavy shower of rain. From this cave there goes out the telegraphic cable which connects Jersey and Guernsey. A remnant of a former cable may be seen hanging down from the top of the cliff, against the waterfall. The most westerly cave is a little difficult of access even at low tide by reason of a pool, across which ladies are usually carried. There is really nothing remarkable to see when the trip has been made, but it is fairly popular.
 
While at Plemont many passengers find time for a bathe, and a more tempting spot for the purpose would be hard to discover.
 
Those who have read "The Battle of the Strong" will look with special interest at the hut on a low site to the right of Plemont Hotel, as it is mentioned in the story. It is not visible from the level of the hotel.
 
The islands that will attract the attention of the visitor are, from left to right, Guernsey, Herm and Jethou, Sark, 9 miles distant, and Alderney, on the horizon. Then on the extreme right is a long stretch of the French coast, the white sands of Carteret being a conspicuous portion.
 
A mile or so west of Plemont is Grosnez Castle, at the extreme north-west point of Jersey.
 

1932 Guide Book to the Channel Islands: Mont Orgueil to Bouley Bay

A few more extracts from the 1932 Guide Book to the Channel Islands are given below. This was a kind of "Bradshaw" for the Channel Islands, telling visitors where to go, and what to see.

It should be noted that most early guide books call Faldouet Dolmen "druidical" or a "druid's temple", it predates that period by at least 3,000 years. It is a Neolithic monument - new stone age - from around 4000-3200 BC. The time of the druids was in the Iron Age (1200 BC - 400 AD). There is no evidence of any druids in Jersey.

The remaining dolmen (all but the largest capstone has been destroyed) is a 5 metre long passage leading into a large circular chamber beyond which is a large capstoned end chamber. Several smaller side chambers and cists form the edges of the main chamber. Human bones from at least three individuals have been recovered as well as pottery, stone axes and flints.

Archirondel is derived either for La Roche Rondel or from surname recorded 1607 to 1984. There is no connection with the French 'hirondelle' (a swallow) nor with the name Arundel; however as the surname Rondel may be synonymous with Rond or Rondin, l'Archirondel may be, as G.F.B. de Gruchy believes, 'the rounded rock'. Archirondel Farm was nearby, serving both as a working farm for Agriculture and fishing and as a guest house and tea-room into the 1960s, run by Mr. & Mrs. Ferry. The Tower on the breakwater was built 1792-4 on a rock in the bay and preceded the building of the breakwater, which was the incomplete southern arm of St. Catherine's Harbour. This tower has for some decades been painted red and white facing the sea, as a navigation aid. 

1932 Guide Book to the Channel Islands: Mont Orgueil to Bouley Bay
In this section of the coast the scenery is pretty rather than grand, but the cliffs are higher and more precipitous as we approach the north. From Mont Orgueil Castle two roads lead northward, one running down to the beach, the other mounting the hill. Taking the latter, we reach in a short distance some fine Druidical remains, in a field close to the road. These remains are sometimes called the Gorey Dolmen, because on the hill overlooking Gorey, sometimes the Faldouet Dolmen and La Pouquelaye.

A lane leads down to the sea, joining the main road at Anne Port, a prettily situated village, about 5 miles from Royal Square. It is popular with picnic parties, offering cool walks on hot days, for it faces east, and there is a pebble beach which affords good bathing.

Standing about half a mile ahead is Archirondel Tower, on the small completed portion of what was to be the southern arm of a great harbour of refuge in St. Catherine's Bay.

The work was commenced with laudable intentions, but with insufficient knowledge of local conditions, and when the northern breakwater was finished it was found that the water enclosed had not sufficient depth for the purpose intended. When the piers were found to be absolutely useless the British Government handed them to the States, who maintain the light at the extremity, keep the great wall in repair, and in return receive the rental of the adjacent lands that were acquired by the Government.

A road follows the shore to Verclut Point, the northern horn of the bay. Here is the northern breakwater, half a mile long. It was begun in 1847, finished in 1855, and cost £250,000.

A mile or so inland is St. Martin, connected with St. Helier by motorbus.

The road continues past Fliquet Bay and a little headland: La Coupe, nearly 200 feet high, and then wanders inland, but we can take a cliff path over grass and furze. On nearing Rozel Bay a pretty valley opens up on the left. On high ground overlooking the sea is a Dolmen 24 feet long. The stones are of a peculiar conglomerate.

The view of the coast is fine. Five miles out at sea can be seen the rocky islets known as Les Ecrehous, noted for their fishing. The catches include lobsters, shrimps, bass, bream, conger eels, rays, rockfish, mullet and whiting, but these are less abundant than formerly. For many years an old man, known as King Pinel of the Ecrehous, lived on the largest island, Maitre lie. Under the shelter of its highest point are the ruins of a monastery, built in 1203 by monks of Val Richer, near Lisieux, Normandy. The boat to Carteret generally passes quite close to the islands.

Before reaching Rozel Bay the well-timbered park of Rozel Manor is passed. Prettily situated in the grounds is a small chapel, a good specimen of Norman architecture. It cannot be viewed without special permission.

Should Rozel Bay be reached when the tide is up, a fairer sight is not to be found on the coast- A short pier shelters a few boats and a sandy beach, while thickly wooded hills form an amphitheatre around.

Many motors visit Rozel Bay, and lunch may be taken at the Rozel Bay Hotel. From the hotel a steep road leads up a delightful valley, well wooded, to the high ground over-looking-Bouley Bay, 4 3/4 miles from St. Helier. About opposite the central portion of its shore is a common-like expanse, called Jardin d'Olivet, from which a fine view is obtained. The French coast is plainly visible, and sometimes the spire of Coutances Cathedral can be seen, but this usually foretells bad weather.

The vehicles do not descend, but put up at the Bouley Bay Hotel. The way down the steep cliff is by a serpentine path beginning in front of the hotel, and enchanting peeps between the hills reward those who essay the descent. The beach has interesting pebbles of various kinds and colours, and is a highly popular picnic resort. (Fresh water can be obtained from the stream running down the combe.) The cliffs are nearly 500 feet high.

Back to St. Helier by road is just five miles, nearly all downhill. The village of Trinity and the old Church, consecrated in 1163, are close at hand. The spire is 410 feet above sea-level. The chief feature in the interior of the church is the fine monument over the tomb of Edward de Carteret, who became Bailiff of Jersey in 1663. The Manor House was built in Elizabeth's reign.

1932 Guide Book to the Channel Islands: Mont Orgueil Castle

A few more extracts from the 1932 Guide Book to the Channel Islands are given below. This was a kind of "Bradshaw" for the Channel Islands, telling visitors where to go, and what to see.

A note on currency - the admission fee of 6d for Gorey Castle, 6 pence in pre-decimal money would be worth about £1.43 today, which shows that the price of admission to the castle has gone up more steeply than inflation! For those who are unaware, on 15 February 1971, the UK and Ireland the Channel Islands decimalised their currencies. Before that date, there were pounds, shillings and pence, with the abbreviation of "d" and not "p" for pence. Sixpence would be 6d, or half a shilling, and there was a small circular coin. A shilling was 12 pence (12d), and 20 shillings made a pound. There were also half-pennies and farthings (1/4 of a penny). Under the decimal system, by contrast, there were 100 pence (100p) to a pound.

It's a different world in 1932, where there are guides to take you around, and you should give them a small tip. It's not stated what that that tip
should be! Notice that the only way to Gouray was by motor transport, the Eastern railway had closed in 1929, unlike the Jersey Western Railway which would survive until a catastrophic fire at St Aubin in 1936.

1932 Guide Book to the Channel Islands: Mont Orgueil Castle

Access from St. Helier by motor to Gorey Pier.

Admission, sixpence, Open every weekday from 8 a.m. to sunset (in winter from 10 am) and after 2 on Sundays, but the guide is not in attendance after 5 o'clock, except in the height of the season. The fees are devoted to the maintenance of the fabric. Visitors are conducted round by guides, who expect a small tip. On the first Thursday of October, November, December, January, February, March and April, the Castle is open free, but there are no guides. Certain reserved portions can be seen on application to the warder.

The Castle is the most cherished of Jersey's ancient monuments, and in 1905 the States gladly accepted an offer from the Crown by which it was vested in them.

The old fortress stands on a projecting headland of rock at the northern extremity of Grouville Bay, and attains in its loftiest part a height of 310
feet above sea-level. Its position commands all the east coast of the island.

The building was begun in the tenth century by the Dukes of Normandy and their work was continued by the Kings of England. It was originally called Castellum de Gurrit, and later Gouray Castle, until, if tradition may be relied upon, the reign of Henry V, when it received from the Duke of Clarence the title of Mont Orgueil, a common name for a strong fort at that period.

The student of military architecture will find in Mont Orgueil an interesting specimen of the development of an early Norman Castle into a Tudor fortress. In the thirteenth century, when the Castle was complete, it consisted of the keep (smaller than it is to-day), a middle ward and an outer ward. These wards were surrounded by the usual round towers and curtain walls. Most of these remain and form the key for the picture of the Castle as it was in its origin.

When cannon came into vogue, the defenders of the fortress had to adapt their defences to the exigencies of a changed warfare. They raised the curtains, built through the beautiful round towers, and established the huge batteries as we see them to-day.

The present area of the Castle covers a little over two acres. On the south-east, or seawards, it is inaccessible.

The first entrance was protected by a drawbridge, replaced a few years ago. Commanding this entrance is Harliston's Tower, erected between 1473 and 1483, by Sir Richard Harliston, Governor of Jersey, who had recovered the Castle from the French in 1466, as described later.

A few paces down the pathway in the outer ward, the skew-back of the vaulted roof of its original guard-house may be seen and the grooves of the portcullis.

The second gateway is of the twelfth century, and also possessed a drawbridge and portcullis. Through the arch we pass into the lower ward, and here, before arriving at the third gateway, we notice some interesting machicolated fortifications. The third gateway (Tudor period and possibly later) is called the Queen's Gate. An inscription above commemorates Queen Victoria's visit to the Castle in 1846.

Ascending some steps, we arrive at the fourth gateway (temp. Queen Elizabeth). Over this entrance are the Royal arms, with the Paulet and Norreys arms on either side. Amias Paulet, the keeper, of Mary, Queen of Scots, was Governor of Jersey.

On the royal escutcheon it will be noticed one of the supporters is a dragon instead of the unicorn with which we are now familiar. The former was introduced by Henry VII, the first of the Tudors, who claimed descent from Cadwallader, the last king of the Britons, whose ensign bore a dragon. The unicorn was introduced by James I.

The tower in which this gateway was inserted at the Tudor period is of much older date. Some parts are twelfth century; other portions later.

From this gate we arrive at the Middle Ward, right under the Keep, where a path across grass on the right leads to the Crypt of St. George's Chapel (twelfth-century). The crypt has been rebuilt by the States.

By continuing to ascend the steps one soon has on the left the doorway of the chamber in which is the Well. At the top of the steps is the granite arch of the entrance to the Keep, embellished with mouldings of animals. It is an insertion, and is contemporary with the building of the great walls encircling the ancient Keep, having been erected, as a tablet over the gateway testifies, in 1337. In the Keep is the Crypt of St. Mary's Chapel (twelfth-century). Connected with it is a cell for ecclesiastical prisoners. The Chapel was for the private use of the Governors. It has been much injured, having been converted into a kitchen. Only one original lancet window remains.

Adjoining the chapel are the residential rooms of the Governor. The various storeys of the Keep are connected by a spiral stone staircase. The uppermost battery of the Keep is known as the Mount, or Somerset Towers, having been built during the governorship of the Duke of Somerset.

The Castle was besieged in 1373 by the famous Bertrand du Guesclin, Constable of France, but he only succeeded in capturing the outer defences. The Keep was impregnable. But the fortress was destined to fall into foreign hands nearly a hundred years later. In 1460 Queen Margaret appears to have made overtures to the French to cede Jersey in consideration of a force being sent to the succour of her party in the English wars. The French King granted the Island to Pierre de Breze, Comte de Maulevrier, and through the connivance of the Governor of the Castle, the fortress was seized by the French, who held it for six years.

It was re-taken by Admiral Harliston in conjunction with Philip de Carteret, the Seigneur of St. Ouen, who collected a force to invest it by land while the admiral invested it by sea. When the siege had lasted five and a half months, the starving garrison surrendered. They were allowed to march out with the honours of war, and were then transported to France.

During the Civil War of the seventeenth century, Sir Philip de Carteret, who was both Lieutenant-Governor and Bailiff, took the side of the King. He appointed his wife chatelaine of Mont Orgueil, while he himself conducted the defence of Elizabeth Castle. He died while thus engaged in 1643. His wife died in the following year. In 1651 Blake and General Haynes, as recorded in connection with Elizabeth Castle, obtained Mont Orgueil with little trouble.

In olden times, and until a prison was built in St. Helier, Mont Orgueil was used as the island prison. During the great rebellion it served as a State prison. William Prynne, the Puritan, was imprisoned here from 1637 to 1640; the cell he occupied is shown.

While here he wrote " Mount Orgueil, or Divine and Profitable Meditations raised from the contemplation of these three leaves of Nature's Volume-1, Rockes ; 2, Seas ; 3, Gardens."

It will be recalled that William Prynne became recorder of Bath in the reign of Charles I, and represented the city in three parliaments. For lampooning players and playgoers, and casting a reflection on the virtue of the queen, he was sentenced by the Star Chamber to lose his ears, to stand in the pillory, to pay a fine of £5,000 and to be imprisoned for life. For a second pamphlet written in prison he was again sentenced to the pillory, to lose what remained of his ears, and to pay a further £5,000. While at Mont Orgueil he gained the friendship of Sir Philip Carteret and his family, by whom he was treated more as a guest than as a prisoner.

From the top of the Castle on a clear day the coast of France can be distinctly seen. The guide will point out Carteret, the spire of Coutances
Cathedral a short distance inland, and, under very favourable atmospheric conditions, Mont St. Michel.

A finely preserved dolmen lies to the north of Mont Orgueil, and is noted below.

To return to St. Helier by the shortest route (41 miles), the road leading inland from Gorey village should be taken to the main St. Martin's Road. Turn to left, and proceed past Prince's Tower and Five Oaks village.

1932 Guide Book to the Channel Islands: St Helier to Mont Orgueil by the Coast

A few more extracts from the 1932 Guide Book to the Channel Islands.

It makes me pine for the railway, which is mentioned time and again. And the bathing cabins at Gorey!

There is an inaccuracy in the text. Grouville Church (St Martin of Grouville) is much older than 1322 as stated in the Guide Book. It was already a Parish Church before the Battle of Hastings, for it was one of the eight Jersey Churches which Duke William robbed of half their tithes to endow the Abbey of Montvilliers, and this is documented. The first Rector of Grouville listed in the records is much later, now thought to be around 1342, and this may have confused the compiler.

It's also worth noting that Rocqueberg, or the Witch's Rock appears in at least two different folk-tales about witches, and there is supposed to be the cloven hoof imprint of the devil on the rock. These stories however do not go back to the time of the witch trials, and are later fictions.

Mont Ube Dolmen, which is the dolmen here referred to as Samares Dolmen, was once used as a pig sty. Like all the dolmens, it would have had capstones, but those were broken up by blasting for cheap building material.

1932 Guide Book to the Channel Islands: St Helier to Mont Orgueil by the Coast
 
The four coasts of this almost rectangular island present a choice variety of scenery, and the interior is characterized by numerous valleys of great loveliness. In order systematically to describe the whole, we begin with sections of the coast, and subsequently refer in detail to the valleys and other inland scenery.
 
By referring to the index, a description of all the places visited by the motor-coaches will easily be found. For the order in which the coast sections and valleys are described, see the Contents page.
 
1. ST. HELIER TO MONT ORGUEIL BY THE COAST.
 
As a coast walk or cycle ride this route offers many attractions. The road closely follows the sea, it is practically level, the Castle is an object of special interest, and the train, which keeps the road close company all the way, can be utilized if desired. Finally, the return journey can be made by a much shorter route inland. Details of the railway will be found on p. 29.
 
Leaving the promenade around the South Fort, we proceed along the road fronting Havre des Pas, or we can walk over the sands should the tide be out.
 
After passing the skeleton iron lighthouse, we reach the end of the sandy beach, and arrive at a few fishermen's cottages, with a road leading inland through the village of Samares to the station (half a mile from the coast), close to which are two points of interest, referred to below in paragraphs (a.) and (b).
 
Before turning inland, note the large, red, gabled house on the beach, with round tower. In the grounds (approached from the road and not from the beach) is a huge mass of granite about 40 feet high called the Witches' Rock, from the tradition that on it the Jersey witches held their Sabbath and their dances at the time of full moon. What is more noteworthy here is the beach, for the rock pools exhibit marvellously coloured anemones of large size, a dark mauve creature being a general favourite on account of its long tentacles, size and colour, and because it is easily found.
 
If the coast-line be taken, an inn (Le Hocq Hotel) is reached in about three-quarters of a mile, close to Le Hocq station.  A short distance beyond is Pontac.
 
Proceeding half a mile inland to Samares station we can visit-
 
(a) Samares Dolmen.-Route: Cross railway close to station; cross main road and keep straight on until a path is reached leading up some steps on the right of the road. This path leads to the Dolmen, composed of two rows of upright stones. Though not the best on the Island, it is worth a visit.
 
(b) Samares Manor-House.-On the main road to St. Helier, a little to the west of Samares station. Fine view of old manor-house from the road. The round ivy-covered tower in the grounds is all that remains of the early eleventh-century mansion.
 
Instead of returning directly to the sea, we can walk along the main road eastward, and in three-quarters of a mile reach St. Clement's Church. Features of interest within are the font and the frescoes on the walls of the north and south transepts and nave. They were discovered in 1879 under the plaster. The picture in the nave represents St. Michael and the Dragon, and is by far the best preserved.
 
From the church take the road due south for a short half-mile to Pontac. We now face charming St. Clement's Bay, the eastern point of which is called La Platte Rocque. Here Rullecour and his men landed on January 5, 1781, and afterwards a few English and French met in a desperate fight.
 
The French had been left behind by Rullecour, probably to guard the transport vessels whilst their leader and the main body went forward to St. Helier, where they were defeated and made prisoners (see p. 39). Platte Rocque has a small harbour.
 
Continuing by the coast road and now turning northward, we pass tower after tower built for the protection of the islands during the Napoleonic scare. The scenery is pretty, for Grouville Bay is of fine proportions, and Mont Orgueil forms the extremity.
 
Grouville (Hotel: Grouville Hall) is happily placed, with Golf Links on the Common (see p. 30).
 
Three-quarters of a mile inland lies Grouville Church, dating from 1322. In its God's acre is the grave of seven privates of the 83rd Regiment, "who gloriously fell in the midst of their victorious companions at La Platte Rocque on the 6th of January, 1781."
 
Grouville Common merges into Gorey Common, and we reach Gorey Village, close to the sea, and with several popular tea and luncheon rooms. Gorey has a delightful stretch of sands. There are several cabins for bathers.
 
At Gorey Pier are two hotels and a small harbour, behind and above which rises the mass of grass-streaked granite on which is built the Castle. A short, steep pathway leads up to it, commencing by the weighbridge. From Gorey Pier, a motor-launch runs at advertised times during summer to Carteret (p. 183). 

 

St Helier in 1932 - Harbour and Fort Regent

A few more extracts from the 1932 Guide Book to the Channel Islands...

A note on the book "The Battle of the Strong". This was written by Gilbert Parker, in fact Sir Horatio Gilbert George Parker, 1st Baronet PC (1862 - 1932), who was Canadian novelist and British politician, and was born at Camden East, Addington, Ontario. Most of his novels tell of the history and life of the French Canadians; and his literary reputation rests on those Canadian stories.  In the early 1890s he began to gain a growing reputation in London as a writer of romantic fiction. Settling in London, he was elected to the House of Commons as a Conservative member for Gravesend. He remained an MP until 1918, and was knighted by King Edward, in 1902 for his service to Canadian literature.

In 1898, he broke new ground with "The Battle of the Strong" which was set in the Channel Islands rather than Canada. It is a Romantic tale in a historical setting, and opens with the battle of Jersey. It is continued into the great war between England and France at the close of the eighteenth century - the "Battle of the Strong". In a newspaper cutting of the time from 1899, it is noted that "Mr Parker is keen to disavow historical accuracy for his narrative or historical foundation either for his narrative or chain of facts". Gilbert Parker was not known for historical accuracy! The 1905 New International Encyclopedia noted that it was the "dramatic quality of his books which won for them their considerable popularity, despite their disregard of truth in local color."

The full review notes that:

This new book of Mr. Gilbert Parker's, is a studiously well-thought-out story of life a century ago, which is alternately mixed up with the concerns of the small German duchies of the day, the struggles between England and France for territory in the Channel Islands- and other portions of Northern Europe, and French disturbances as represented by the army of the Vendee. All this will of course, be intensely interesting to those who favour historical study, although Mr. Parker is careful to disavow historical accuracy for his narrative or historical foundation- for either his characters or chain of facts. He gives, however, a hint, a voluminous hint it might almost be called, of the source whence, at any rate, 'the fundamental idea of his living drama emanated, with a further indication that, if the course of events has not been too slavishly followed, it has been quite carefully enough embellished for purposes of art so as not to remove from it the touch of nature which makes the whole world kin.

The personal subject of the story clings around the island of Jersey, not the Jersey of the nineteenth century,' with its alternation of quiet parochial existence, and the feverish excitement of the cheap tripper, but the Jersey of a century since when the quaint native simplicity of the Jersiaise, which is now so much at a discount, was the prevailing feature of the island life and associations into which the drum and shot of war were so often and so cruelly intruded. The story is, with its substratum of veracity, a powerful and inviting one, albeit it is somewhat unpleasantly illustrative of the " vaulting ambition which overleaps itself," and that the hero, Philip, Prince Philip d'Avranche, carries with him to his ruin some of whom one would rather learn better things.

There are others, however, like Guida, and Detricand, who rise phoenix-like from the ashes of his failures. As a career, Philip's is little short of marvelous, looked at in the light of to-day ; a sovereign dukedom cajoled, to quote Mr. Parker's own phrase, out of an aged and fatuous prince, a wife gained, who is yet no wife, from amongst the highest of a Royal Court, success won from Fate by ' a valour informed with vanity and ambition-all reared upon the insecure basis of a secret marriage of a lowly descendant of another Royal House, only' to end in a lonely untended death, after a duel in which marital wrongs are revenged. All this is told in stern uncompromising fashion, in which there is no dallying with the hero's weaknesses of egotism and ambition, but rather, if there is a fault in the treatment, in the way in which the mitigating features are lost sight of by the chronicler. The lesson is minimised, too, because the majestic self sacrifice of Ranulph, who is neither ambitious nor egotist, but who lays his manhood at the feet of a traitor parent and a scornful mistress, has no brighter end, on the whole, than even the erring Philip himself. The greatest faults of Philip's life are not faults at all, for his absence from his early bride's troublous experiences is at first a matter of compulsion and not of choice, to which she contributes by voluntarily refraining from letting him know of her disaster and plight, while of his son" he knows nothing until its infancy is well passed, and then his willingness to befriend it becomes wildly extravagant. No slight analysis can, however, do justice to a story so full of material as Mr. Parker's.

The personage dealt with will all well repay acquaintance, from those already mentioned to the lesser ones, and the quaint Jèrriais miniature pictures, such as Maîtresse Amiable, Jean Touzel, Dornvy Jamais, and the rest are each perfect in their unaccustomed eccentricity of behaviour.

St Helier in 1932 - Harbour and Fort Regent

For safe landing on this terribly dangerous coast good harbourage is of first importance. Vast sums have been spent by the States to achieve this object, but the arrival and departure of vessels still depend on the tide, except as regard the mail steamers, whose berths are specially dredged.

The area of the harbour is very large: the total length of the quays is nearly six miles. Even so, in 1923 a scheme was mooted to enlarge the harbour, at a cost of some £200,000, to meet the requirements of new steamers about to be built by the railway companies.

More than a century ago a small harbour was constructed, protected by a short jetty and a quay. This proving quite inadequate, two large piers, called respectively the Victoria and the Albert Piers, were begun in 1841. The latter forms a favourite promenade-a continuation of the Esplanade and is nearly always crowded on summer evenings when the boat from England is expected.

Another enlargement was undertaken by the States in 1867. The plans of Sir John Coode were adopted, and for five years (1872-7) the work proceeded. It was intended to enclose with two piers an enormous expanse of water.

One pier, called the Hermitage, was built from Elizabeth Castle. As a mere breakwater, this is of great utility in protecting the Harbour from south-west gales. The other was to extend from the foot of Fort Regent. In 1877 the works were abandoned, after an exhaustive inquiry into the obstacles which continually presented themselves, and the incomplete pier adds another instance to the many to be found in the Islands of time and money expended on harbour work to no purpose. St. Catherine's breakwater, near Gorey, is a white elephant, costly and useless, and Braye Harbour, Alderney, is like unto it.

At the end of the Victoria Pier is a small granite obelisk, the Harvey Memorial, erected "To Noble Heroism," and recording the loss of the Normandy by collision on March 17, 1870. The officers and crew "gave up the boats to passengers, stood by the sinking ship, and sank with her." The Lifeboat House faces this memorial.

Between the old Harbour and Fort Regent is Pier Road, in which, at No. 9, is the Museum of the Societe Jersiaise. It contains many relics of ancient Jersey, all carefully classified and catalogued, and is freely open to the public every Thursday during May, June, July, August and September, from 2.30 to 5 p.m. Admission by the main entrance in Caledonia Place. On Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays, admission is by ticket, 6d" from 1 to 12 and 2 to 4, at the door in Pier Road.

From Pier Road pathways lead up to Fort Regent, which crowns the hill called Mont de la Ville, rising abruptly from the town. For centuries this point of vantage has been fortified, but the present fort dates from the Napoleonic scare, and was commenced in the year 1806. The British Government purchased the site for £11,280, and over a million pounds were expended in making the Fort well nigh impregnable. The well, supplying 6,000 gallons daily, is sunk 232 feet in the solid rock.

At the north, or town, end of Fort Regent is a flagstaff, on which Signals are hoisted indicating:

(a) The approach of storms;
(b) The arrival or departure of mail boats, steamers and other vessels.

For a key to the signals, see the local Royal Almanac. Pennants are hoisted on the steamer's arrival at and departure from Guernsey for Jersey, and flags indicating the Company owning her are run up when she is in sight off Corbiere Lighthouse.

Pier Road continues below South Hill Battery, seated on a huge isolated rock seaward of Fort Regent, and fortified with long-range guns. Then one winds round the stunted tower called La Collette, near which is the Men's Bathing Place. At high tide the bathers enter the water from a wooden pier; at low water from specially prepared diving places among the rocks, to which access is gained by cement paths.

A promenade, substantially built of granite and cement, with seats every few yards, affords access to all parts of the front around Fort Regent.

Continuing along the shore, we soon reach Green Street, the lower half of which and Regent Road form a thoroughfare connecting the Havre des Pas Esplanade here with the town terminus of the Eastern Railway and Queen Street.

A short distance farther is the bathing-pool of the Jersey Swimming Club. A circular wall encloses a sea-water surface of nearly three acres. The dressing-boxes (150) are in the Tower, which at high water is surrounded by the sea and is reached by a light bridge. Spring boards and fixed boards at the international height are provided for divers, and there is a fresh-water douche.

Free open sea-bathing can be had from the neighbouring rocks approached by cemented paths. There is mixed bathing every weekday from 7 a.m. to sunset, and Sundays from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. A boatman is always in attendance. Refreshments and afternoon teas can be obtained.

Then comes Greve d'Azette, or Samares Beach, a fine stretch of smooth, firm sand, excellent for bathing or walking, and a favourite ground for hockey and other games.

In to the east, the sea is thickly studded with black rocky islets, more or less visible at all states of the tide. This is a terrible coast. Sir
Gilbert Parker, in his Battle of the Strong, says:

"You may range the seas, and you will find no such landing-place for imps or men as the field of rocks on the southeast corner of Jersey, called, with a malicious irony, the Bane des Violettes. The great rocks rise up like volcanic monuments from a floor of lava and trailing vraic, which at half-tide makes the sea a tender mauve and violet. The passages of safety between these reefs are but narrow at high tide, and at half-tide, when the currents are changing most, the violet field becomes the floor of a vast mortuary chapel for unknowing mariners."

Near the townward end of La Greve d'Azette is Greve d'Azette station.

Hard by is the Maison Victor Hugo (now a private hotel), where the great French writer resided for a while during his exile from France, before
settling in Guernsey.

A short distance inland is the Recreation Ground, one mile from Royal Square, where are bowling greens and tennis courts.

St Helier in 1932 - Elizabeth Castle

A few more extracts from the 1932 Guide Book to the Channel Islands...

This covers mainly Elizabeth Castle, and its more recent history. The Elizabeth Castle of 1932 looked quite different from that today in many respects - the 1940s saw a legacy of German bunkers and gun emplacements which altered the skyline of parts of its battlements, making a much harder, starker silhouette.

The cost of the castle is pretty amazing £1,500. It is difficult to ascertain what that would be today - the Measuring Worth website says:

In 2010, the relative value of £1,500 from 1922 ranges from £63,900.00 to £491,000.00.

Even at the upper end of the scale, that still seems like a bargain!

The history of the castle doesn't mention that there is a gap of around 600 years between the death of Helier, and the foundation of the Abbey on the castle. It is notable that the life of Helier dates from the time of the Abbey, and is mostly constructed from bits and pieces of other Saints lives. It appears to be more of a foundational document for the Abbey, written up so that more might be known of Helier than simply a name.

The historian Charles Grosset noted that the Passion of St Helier, written in the 10th or 11th century, draws upon two very much earlier lives of St Marculf (A and B), and amends them to suit his narrative.

Grosset's conclusion is that the life of St Helier is extremely poorly documented, and like Balleine, he considers it largely fictional. He sees the writer as having "been given the task of writing a life of the hermit Helier, who lived in Jersey and has a few bare facts known about him: the cave where he lived, healing of the sick, and death at the hands of pirates. He discovered a similar sounding name to Helier in the district of Tongres, and also a hermit called Eletus in the Life of St Marcouf. He did not hesitate to identify Helier with the near namesake in Tongres, or to make an identification with Eletus, taking the story of a miracle set on an island whose place-name was not to be found on the map."

The last item in this extract is the West End Bathing Pool. This is sadly neglected and no longer in use, although it has been suggested refurbishing it would be a good jubilee project. Here it is described in its vibrant heyday - probably very popular with young people, because it permitted mixed bathing!

St Helier in 1932 - Elizabeth Castle

Elizabeth Castle.
 
Admission-6d. Open daily, Sunday included.
 
The Castle stands on a detached rock about three-quarters of a mile from the shore. It can be reached by boat or by a causeway, which is completely covered at high tide, but is available about 3 hours after high water, and remains available for about 5 1/2 hours. If the tide is rising, it is not advisable to stay too long, or it may be necessary to remove shoes and stockings to make good one's retreat by the causeway.
 
In 1922 the Imperial Government offered Elizabeth Castle to the States of Jersey for £1,500. The States accepted, and at once began to put the historical parts of the building in a state of repair. The official handing over of the keys took place, with full ceremonial, on May 21, 1923.
 
The venerable and picturesque appearance of the Castle at a distance is not confirmed by a close view, but historically the spot is of interest and should be visited.
 
Close to the rock on which the Castle stands, and enclosed by the breakwater, is the Hermitage Rock, in which the hermit Helerius, or St. Helier, from whom the town derives its name, had his cell in the middle of the sixth century. He was noted for his piety and eloquence. While addressing a band of pirates, he was suddenly attacked and killed by the captain, who feared that his men might be induced to desert him. On the spot -where this occurred a Norman nobleman, Guillaume de Hamon, built an abbey and church in 1126.
 
In the reign of Edward VI the Governor of Jersey received orders to fortify the promontory, but little was done until the reign of Queen Elizabeth, when the greater part of the fortress was constructed. The lower ward was built in 1626, and the tower nearest the causeway, called King Charles's Tower, was added a few years later by the express desire of Charles II, who, as Prince of Wales, had been much interested in the fortifications which resisted his capture by the Parliamentarians.
 
Sir Philip de Carteret, Bailiff of Jersey, strengthened Elizabeth Castle on the outbreak of the Civil War. At his death (1643) the faction favouring the Parliament attempted to seize the Castle, but it was strongly held in the King's name. Mont Orgueil Castle was also stoutly defended by the Dowager Lady de Carteret. On the arrival from St. Malo of Captain George Carteret (nephew of Sir Philip) the attack on Mount Orgueil was withdrawn, and Carteret, assuming his rightful office of Lieutenant-Governor of Jersey for the King, soon suppressed opposition. In 1646 the fugitive Prince Charles arrived at Elizabeth Castle. On February 17, 1649, Carteret caused the Prince to be declared King.
 
Soon afterwards it was deemed prudent that the soi-disant king should retire to the Continent. Lord Clarendon also arrived at the Castle in 1646 and remained two years and one month, during which he began his famous History of the Rebellion. Admiral Blake arrived in 1651, with Parliamentary forces, and in St. Ouen's Bay Sir George Carteret and his Jerseymen fought them for four hours, when the Parliamentarians retired to their vessels and made for other parts of the Island.
 
When the Parliamentary forces landed, St. Aubin's Castle and Mont Orgueil quickly surrendered, but Carteret stubbornly held out in Elizabeth Castle. It was bombarded from St. Helier Hill (now Fort Regent), and an enormous shell "fired at a venture" did irreparable damage by exploding the powder magazine. Forty men were killed, and among the buildings wrecked were the Abbey Church and the residences of Prince Charles, Lord Clarendon and Sir George Carteret. In consequence of the disaster, the garrison capitulated on December 15, 1651, marching out with honours of war. The siege had begun on October 23.
 
Slightly to the west of the causeway is the
 
West End Bathing Pool, or Victoria Lake. It has a sea-water surface of over five acres. Mixed bathing is permitted at all times. The pool is open from 7 a.m. to 7 p.m. on weekdays, and from 7 a.m. to 5 p.m. on Sundays. There is every convenience for both swimmers and nonswimmers-rafts, spring-boards and double diving stage (5 feet and 9 feet high). A boatman is always in attendance. As the Pool is covered at every tide the water is renewed twice a day.
 

St Helier in 1932 - Royal Parade to St Aubin's Bay

A few more extracts from the 1932 Guide Book to the Channel Islands...

It's amazing how different the world of 1932 was from today, and how rapidly the Island has changed. This extract highlights in most particularly.

General Don's statue still dominates the Parade gardens, but the pub named after him, the "General Don" was recently renamed to the "Kitty O Shea". But in 1932, the pub didn't exist - it was only built around 1935. The Parade, of course was named for the militia which drilled there, and the statue of Don was built in 1885 by Robinet.

The Cenotaph - erected in 1923 from granite quarried from La Moye - is still there, but now also records the names of Jerseymen who died in both World Wars; in 1932 it only had those from the Great War. Jersey lost 862 men between 1914 and 1918, and a further 458 were killed in the second world war.

Philip Baudains, Mayor of St Helier from 1881-1896 is now largely forgotten, and his bronze bust, erected while he was still alive in 1897, is now green with oxidisation. At the time it was put up, a London newspaper asked if putting up a monument to someone still living was a particularly Jersey custom!

But the biggest changes are the location of the Lieutenant-Governor's residence - Government House is now up St Saviour's Hill, the Prison - where the Patriotic Street Car Park is now  - and the function of the hospital to act as a workhouse for the poor, orphans or destitute Islanders. The older part of the hospital still retains something of that grim Victorian atmosphere with its high ceilings, and large ceilings. The new prison at La Moye was built in the 1970s; I still have the first Perry's Guide Book from 1966, which shows the old prison.

The esplanade of course has been left partly high and dry by the land reclamation at the waterfront, and the old potato lorries have been replaced with large container lorries, and the quantity of potatoes has fallen. Now the lorries simply drive onto the ships and off in England.

It's hard to remember the large number of cranes lifting crates of potatoes and other produce, and lifting in goods for Islanders to buy. That included coal for heating. Until coal hoppers were introduced shipments of house coal would be swung on a basket using the boom of the ship after being filled by hand by the Dockers on board. With potatoes, in the 1950s, casual dockers would be taken on to boost the workforce open a daily basis, gathering to see if there was work for them at the Weighbridge.

The dockers of the 1960s and 1970s were a powerful force to be reckoned with - they controlled the freight lifeline to the UK. On the 12th and 13th May 1960 there was an unofficial strike by dockworkers, and George Troy appealed to them to return to work. And in 1970, the dockers were still flexing their muscles-  there was a state of emergency when Jersey manual workers, including local dockers, went on strike at the same time as a dock strike took place in the UK.

But the advent of containerisation, and container lorries that could simply drive on and off shipping vessels has seen a decline in dock work, and the firm George Troy and Son has recently ceased to trade, with the loss of 30 jobs.

It's amusing to see Elizabeth Castle - which of course would have lacked German fortifications - described as a "picturesque pile". I wonder what the writer of the guide book would have thought of the Radisson Hotel?!

The druidical remains, by the way, are the dolmens of  Ville es Nouaux, a Cist-in-Circle & Gallery Grave dating (respectively) as Neolithic (3250 - 2850BC)  and Chalcolithic (3250 - 2250BC) - long before the time of the druids!

---

St Helier in 1932 - Royal Square to Town Hall

A short distance beyond the Hotel de Ville is the Royal Parade, laid out with lawns and avenues of trees. In the centre is the fine Statue of General Don.

As Lieutenant-Governor during the Napoleonic period, General Don worked indefatigably for the welfare of the Island. Forts and batteries for coast defence were erected, and the Militia drilled and thoroughly organized. Above all, the General is remembered for his excellent roads.

At that end of the Parade which the statue faces is a Cenotaph, commemorating Jerseymen who fell in the Great War, while at the meeting-point of walks behind the statue is a granite pedestal supporting a bronze bust of P. Baudains, fifteen years Mayor of St. Helier.

From the vicinity of the statue, Gloucester Street runs towards the sea and contains entrances to the Hospital, the Prison and the Opera House. The first of these is more than its English name will signify to English visitors. It resembles a French "hospice," as it is a hospital and a workhouse combined. It was founded by a benevolent lady in 1741. The present building was erected in place of the original structure, which was destroyed by fire in 1859.

The thoroughfare at the extremity of the Parade is traversed, in part at least, by visitors and residents who have occasion to go to the Passport Office. The thoroughfare comes up from the front as Kensington Place, passes the Parade as Elizabeth Place, and then becomes Rouge Bouillon, in which is situated the Government Office-" the office of the Lieutenant-Governor and District Staff." Here passports are dealt with.

Passing through Cheapside, which runs between Kensington Place and Elizabeth Place, one comes to the People's Park. From its upper slopes, on Westmount (formerly Mont Patibulaire or Gallows Hill), lovely views of St. Aubin's Bay and Elizabeth Castle may be had. The winding walks, avenues and vistas form a welcome retreat from the thoroughfares of St. Helier. Here it was that the Jersey Militia, under Major Peirson, assembled immediately before the Battle of Jersey.

Adjoining the park is a Bowling Green, and at the lower end, at the corner of Peirson Road, is the Triangle Park, a small three-sided enclosure, with lawn and seats. Here the band plays on fine Sunday evenings. A short distance beyond these open spaces is the Lower Park, a small strip with tennis courts, facing Victoria Avenue.

By continuing in the same direction along Victoria Avenue as far as the First Tower, and then branching to the right, the New Park, presented to St. Helier by Mr. Gervaise Le Gros, a former Jurat of the Royal Court, will be seen. In the centre are some so-called Druidical remains.

During the summer the New Park is the scene of a Battle of Flowers of similar character to those held at Nice, Monte Carlo, and other places in the Riviera.

Victoria Avenue is an alternative name for the Esplanade, bordering the bay. An extension was opened in 1922, making this marine promenade, so far as size goes, one of the finest in the British Isles. Unfortunately, so severe are the south-westerly gales during winter that it has proved impossible to get young trees to withstand their devastating effects, and the promenade has consequently a rather bare appearance.

During the potato season the Esplanade presents a marvellous sight in the evening. Hundreds of wagons and carts enter it from the country, and almost block the traffic, although the road has a width of from fifty to sixty feet. And it is worth going to the Pier after dinner, to see the mountains of barrels, brought by the vehicles, being put on board the steamer by a crane which lifts sixteen tubs at a time.

The Esplanade borders St. Aubin's Bay, the inlet having been named after the small town on its western side. It is the principal bay on the southern coast, and some say the grandest in the Channel Islands. It, of course, shows to best advantage at high water. Then the scene comprises the graceful curve of the coast, the surrounding hills (green and wooded), the blue water, the fringe of yellow sand, and that picturesque pile, Elizabeth Castle.

Between St. Aubin, near the west side of the bay, and St. Helier, are several tiny villages, each pretty in its way.

Skirting the bay, along which are planted miniature stations, is the Western Railway, which runs on to Corbiere, the south-western extremity of Jersey.

St Helier in 1932 - Royal Square to Town Hall

A few more extracts from the 1932 Guide Book to the Channel Islands...

De Rullecourt is usually spelt with a "t", but the Guide book loses that, perhaps because it was written from someone speaking De Rullecourt's name in French; the final "t" is silent. For a more detailed account of the Battle, I would refer the reader to the following Société Jersiaise pages where I have placed a transcript from "Ragg's Popular History of Jersey":

http://members.societe-jersiaise.org/whitsco/wragg38.htm
http://members.societe-jersiaise.org/whitsco/wragg39.htm
http://members.societe-jersiaise.org/whitsco/wragg40.htm
http://members.societe-jersiaise.org/whitsco/wragg41.htm
http://members.societe-jersiaise.org/whitsco/wragg42.htm

It is interesting that there are "three markets" - the Fish Market is still there, and the "New Market" is now simply called "The Market". The Vegetable Market is no longer there, the vegetable stalls having transferred to the main market. The "New Market", as the Guide Book calls it, was actually opened in 1882, so in 1932, it was already fifty years old!

The Catholic Church of St Thomas is no longer the "French Catholic Church". Services are now mostly in English, with some in Portuguese and Polish, reflecting the change in the Island's Catholic population. There are, as far as I am aware, no services in French, although the Christmas Eve Mass used to have the Gospel in French - as well as English, Portuguese, and latterly, Polish!

Weather observations commenced at Maison St. Louis Observatory on 1st January 1894 but it wasn't until later that year that the Observatory building itself was complete. The Observatory continued its programme of manual observations for 111 years until 2004. The system is now automatic, and up to date weather can be observed at:

http://www.jerseymet.gov.je/mslawsindex.htm

---

St Helier in 1932 - Royal Square to Town Hall

In the Royal Square was fought the memorable Battle of Jersey.

Some of the hottest fighting took place against the Peirson Hotel, on one side of which imitation bullet-marks have been painted in consequence of the real shot marks having been destroyed during renovations.

On January 1, 1781, a Frenchman of no position or repute, a mere adventurer, yet with the authority of the French King, sailed from Granville, under the assumed name of Baron de Rullecour, with a following of 1,200 men. Stormy weather compelled them to seek shelter on the Chausey Isles, but before daybreak on January 6, with the aid of a traitorous pilot, they landed in La Rocque Bay, by La Platte Rocque, and marched without opposition to St. Helier. Here the guard was surprised and shot, and the Lieutenant-Governor, Major Moses Corbet, taken prisoner. Royal Square was occupied and fortified at all points. An order was prepared instructing the Governor of Elizabeth Castle to command all troops to remain quiescent, and Corbet's signature to this document was wrung from him. Rullecour compelled Corbet to precede the soldiers who carried the order to the Castle. The request was treated with contempt, and the garrison announced that they would hold the Castle at all cost.

News of the invasion quickly spread over the Island. Major Peirson, of the 95th Regiment, who was only twenty-four years old, rapidly collected a few companies of the Jersey Militia, and, aided by a detachment of regulars, proceeded in hot haste to Royal Square. Rullecour sent a flag of truce to Peirson, urging that resistance was useless, and inviting him to proceed to the Court House with his men and lay down their weapons. The gallant Major replied, "Yes, we will bring our arms to the Court House, but with bayonets fixed l "

Peirson's force entered Royal Square through the narrow street now called Peirson Place, and, notwithstanding the artillery and superior position of the French, closed with the enemy in a hand-to-hand conflict. Corbet was dragged into the fight by Rullecour to weaken and hinder the attack. The regulars and the Jersey militia stubbornly fought the ground inch by inch. The critical moment came when Peirson fell, shot through the heart.

The loss of their leader only served to increase the determination of the men to win or die, and they " drew courage from their dire distress." Urged forward by Philip Dumaresq, a subaltern of militia, who promptly assumed command, they turned what looked like certain defeat into brilliant victory.

Rullecour was killed, with twenty-six of his followers, and one hundred Frenchmen lay severely wounded. Over five hundred prisoners were taken, and the remainder fled in panic.

Rullecour was buried in the parish churchyard; Peirson's grave was dug within the church.

From the Peirson Hotel it is but a few steps to the Markets,

Halkett Place. There are markets for cattle, fish, vegetables, etc., but the New Market Buildings, covering about
10,000 square yards, take premier position. The markets held on Wednesdays and Saturdays are most interesting, and the visitor has an opportunity of hearing a babel of English, French and " Anglo-Norman," as well as of seeing a really well-supplied fruit and flower market, The beneficence of the Jersey climate is here most convincingly demonstrated. In the centre of the building an ornamental fountain makes play over a fernery and fish-pond.

On the northern side is Beresford Street, and across this is the Vegetable Market, with the Fish Market adjoining it.

Hill Street, at the back of the Court House and the adjacent public buildings, is continued by an important thoroughfare, of which parts are known as La Motte Street, Le Coie and St. Saviour's Road.

From Le Coie, a short thoroughfare goes to the right to Victoria College, a fine building, opened in 1852 to commemorate the visit of Queen Victoria and the Prince Consort. There are Lower and Upper Schools, the latter being divided into Classical and Modern sides. The College is richly endowed, and numerous scholarships and exhibitions are open each year.

The buildings stand in park-like grounds, to which the public have access, and which afford fine views.

The School House, near the College, accommodates about seventy boarders.

Near Victoria College and approached by short thorough-fares from St. Saviour's Road is the Maison St. Louis, a Jesuit settlement. The fine building was formerly an hotel. In the grounds is a tower bearing some resemblance to the Eiffel Tower. It is 170 feet high and looks down on the town of St. Helier and St. Aubin's Bay from a height of 364 feet above sea-Ievel, so that it is a prominent feature in every view of St. Helier, and commands a view over nearly ,the whole of the island. It is used by the Fathers as an astronomical and meteorological observatory. In the rear of Maison St. Louis is a large College.

The appropriately named Broad Street, near the Town Church and Royal Square, becomes well known to most
visitors through being the site of the General Post Office. Opposite this building stands the massive Le Sueur Obelisk, erected in memory of Peter Le Sueur, five times Constable or Mayor of St. Helier's parish.

A few yards northward of Broad Street and having the same general direction is King Street, already mentioned as one of the chief shopping centres, as is also Queen Street, which is in a line with it towards the right. Running northward from King Street is New Street, continued by Val Plaisant, in which is the Roman Catholic Church, dedicated to St. Thomas, and generally called the French Catholic Church on account of the use of French in the services.

It is by far the most imposing of Jersey's churches. The architecture is that of the thirteenth century. The first stone was laid in 1883. The church was opened in 1887, and consecrated in 1893. The steeple is 196 feet high. A wall picture depicts the martyrdom of Jeanne d'Arc.

Both King Street and Broad Street followed towards the west lead to Chasing Cross, quite near which is The Hotel de Ville (Town Hall), a fine building containing the Municipal Offices and the Police Station. On the walls of the large hall hang numerous pictures, the nucleus of the Jersey Art Gallery.

Among the most notable are eighteen clever water-colours by Le Cappelain, a native artist who died in 1848 ; two pictures by Poingdestre: a Winter Scene and Game, a painting of the Corbiere Rocks (hanging over the door), specially interesting because it was executed before the lighthouse and causeway were built ; on the same wall The Ironing Girl, by David, a masterpiece ; and close by two canvases by W. W. Ouless. R.A., Edith and The Blind Beggar.

St Helier in 1932 - Royal Square and Public Buildings

A few more extracts from the 1932 Guide Book to the Channel Islands...

The book says that "all proceedings are in French" relating to the Court. I suspect that wasn't wholly true. But if any documents were read out, their titles and contents were probably French. Until very recently property deeds, conveyancing and transactions were all done in French (usually with an English translation for the buyer). A knowledge of French was a requirement for anyone involved in conveyancing, and probably still is, as the older documents are is French.

It also states that "In a corner of the Court is the prisoners' iron cage, a barbarous survival.". The history of that cage (which is now just of historical value) is interesting. The Jersey Heritage site tells us that:

When the court was in session the prisoners were escorted to St Helier by a body of men known as les hallabardiers - these were Crown tenants and holders of certain lands in the eastern parishes. As late as 1875 they were summoned to maintain order at an execution. Elsewhere around the island certain properties owed 'service de prisonniers' which included the provision of shackles and the obligation to confine wrongdoers until they were taken to court on the Saturday. Once in St Helier the prisoners were held in an iron cage in the Market Place (Royal Square) until they were called to the Court. This was demolished in 1697 when the prison was built at Charing Cross and a new cage was built inside the courthouse.

The library was a public library, with very good opening times, but it was not a lending library. Reverend Philip Falle wrote (in 1734):

"Nothing is more wanted in this Island than a Public Library, the place being out of all commerce of the Learned World, and the Clergy, through meanness of their income, under a disability of laying out much Money upon Books. And such a Library should not, I think, be solely appropriated to the Clergy, but free and open to the better sort at least of the Laity, and be furnished accordingly. Reading would give our Gentlemen juster Notions of Things, enlarge their minds, and render them more useful and serviceable to their Country."

The library was finally ready for use in 1743, a year after the death of Philip Falle. Later, Daniel Dumaresq gave his collection after his death to the library in 1800; this almost doubled the stock of the Jersey Bibliothèque Publique (to give the library its proper name). This Library was located at what is now Library Place, but in 1886, becoming too large for the site, it moved a site beside the Royal Court buildings. There were 6,000 books to be moved. Within 8 years that number had almost trebled to over 18,000.

The library remained as a reference only library until 1934, two years after the Guide Book, and was one of the last British libraries to change to being a lending library as well. As the volume of books grew, the library moved to a new building in Halkett Place in 1989.

---

ST. HELIER

Eastwards of the Town Churchyard is the Royal Square, originally the market place. The site of the market cross is occupied by a gilt statue of George II, erected at the public expense in 1751. His Majesty is represented in the costume of a Roman Emperor, and the head is laurel-crowned. The south side of the Square is occupied by St. Helier's most important buildings. At the east end of the line is the States Chamber or House of Parliament ; at the west end is the Public Library, and in the centre is the Royal Court House.

A very humble thatched building served as the Court House from the twelfth century to the concluding years of the seventeenth. The building then erected was re-constructed in the following century, and repairs and enlargement undertaken in 1886 made the edifice that which we see to-day.

The hall contains several interesting pictures, including a replica of Copley's The Death of Major Peirson, the original of which hangs in the 'National Gallery ; a portrait of General Conway, one of Jersey's governors, by Gainsborough, for which the artist received from the States of Jersey £125 - it is now valued at £2,000; the portrait of Advocate Dupre, by W. W. Ouless, R.A., a Jerseyman of whom the Island is justly proud ; portraits of Bailiff J. Hammond and G. H. Horman, Solicitor-General, by W. M. Hay ; a portrait of George III, by Philippe Jean, a Jerseyman ; portraits of P. Le Sueur and F. Godfray, and the Assize of Heritage, by Lander. The picture shows the advocates taking the oath of allegiance to the King as the modern representative of the ancient Dukes of Normandy, a ceremony which takes place twice a year.

The public may attend the Court while it is sitting, and at other times the building can be inspected. The Court sits in a handsome upper hall. Its constitution is described later. All proceedings are in French. Before the President is a silver-gilt mace presented to Charles II "as a proof of his royal affection towards the Island of Jersey, in which he had been twice received in safety when excluded from the remainder of his dominions." In point of beauty it holds the sixth place among all existing maces. It is carried before the Bailiff.

In a corner of the Court is the prisoners' iron cage, a barbarous survival.

The States Chamber

(Salle des Etats), or House of Parliament, is small, but admirably designed and furnished. The style is Jacobean. The seats are arranged in horseshoe form in three ascending tiers. The Bailiff who presides has a throne-like chair, seven inches higher than that of the Lieutenant-Governor by his side.

Above the dais is a gallery for distinguished visitors. At the opposite end of the chamber is a gallery for the general public, who reach it by a stairway within the entrance lobby.

Since 1900, members have had the option of speaking either in English or in French, but the latter is still the official language.

In 1920 there was placed in the chamber a mural tablet inscribed-- " Messire Walter Ralegh, Governor of Jersey 1600-1603 In Remembrance."

A year later, when His Majesty, King George, accompanied by the Queen and the Princess Mary, visited the Royal Court, there was on duty a guard of halberdiers bearing the halberts used when Ralegh was governor.

The Public Library,

contained in the third of the great buildings here, was founded in 1736 by the Rev. Philip Falle, Rector of St. Saviour's from 1690-1709, and later the holder of a stall in Durham Cathedral. He was also chaplain to William III. While at St. Saviour's he published a History of Jersey. He bequeathed to the public not only his books, but also his house in St. Helier, and there they remained until 1886, when they were transferred to the present building-

The books number about 22,000, and include many valuable volumes. The Library, which is for reference only, is supported by the States, and is free to all corners. It is open from 10 to 1, and from 2 to 9, except on Sundays and public holidays.

In the outer wall here is a tablet, inserted in 1923, to the memory of " Maître Wace, Norman Poet of the 12th century, who was born in Jersey."

St Helier in 1932 - Harbour and Town Church

A few more extracts from the 1932 Guide Book to the Channel Islands...

It is interesting to see a grumble about the "unattractive, bare-looking Harbour approach" - we've had that in the last 20 years, especially when the reclamation work was all going on. It's a lot better now, with a fairly nice avenue past the roundabout and Cineworld car park, but the chief problem today is that it is a long way to go, especially for foot passengers. Guernsey has always had an advantage in this respect - from Harbour to St Peter Port is a short distance.

I remember the Weighbridge Gardens with the statue of Victoria, all shifted to make way for the bus stops. The open space that exists now is perfect for open events, but looks rather bare the rest of the time. It seems a shame that a garden could not have been restored, especially as there is photographic detail of how it looked.

The Post Office is still in Broad Street, but the train offices are long gone, alas!

The history of the Town Church seems to be quite deficient. It certainly doesn't date from "the middle of the
fourteenth century" - the choir and a small part of the nave which show clear evidence of early Norman, tenth or eleventh-century architecture. And the date of the church can be placed before 1066, because William, Duke of Normandy (not yet King of England) endorsed his father's gift of half its revenues to the Abbey of Cérisy la Forêt.

What is more, the North Chapel has a stone-built half-vault which is unique in Channel Island Churches. So much for the dismissive "little architectural interest" of the guide book. The other note that "unlike nearly all the other parish churches, it has retained its square tower". One can only assume that the author of the guide was basing his architectural comparisons on English churches, not Jersey ones.

The restoration of 1863 is covered in more detail on the Parish Church website:

In 1865, The Revd. Philip Filleul Rector and Vice-dean, with the support of the Constable and parishioners, undertook a thorough restoration. A south transept and western extension to the nave, both with galleries, were built, the chancel, altar and font replaced and the church furnished with uniform pews. An organ was installed in the north chapel, which had been used for many years as the town mortuary. In 1930, the choir was raised and new stalls erected and over the years the organ was enhanced to become a first-class instrument. (1)

It is interesting to note that 142 years later, more restoration has taken place, and the burial site of Major Peirson, mentioned in the guide book, has actually been uncovered.

The Town Church is currently undergoing a period of restoration. During 2007-2008 the exterior has been completely re-pointed and re-roofed. Starting in 2009 the focus of the restoration work has moved inside. The work will include the installation of under floor heating, re-plastering, maintenance of the wall monuments, and lighting.

I've not been able to find any major reasons for the mention of tombstones, except that one was a little over 4 years, and the other one over 100 years old. Jean Laffoley, born in 1659, dying in 1759, would have lived though the end of the Republic, when Richard Cromwell was forced to resign, and through the reigns of Charles II (1660 - 1685 ), James II ( 1685 - 1688 ), William and Mary ( 1689 - 1702 ), Anne ( 1702 - 1714 ), George I ( 1714 - 1727 ) and almost to the end of the reign of George II ( 1727 - 1760 )!

---

IN THE TOWN.

Having reached the landward end of the Harbour from the landing-stage on the pier, one passes between the Western Railway Station and the Weighbridge Gardens, a small grass-plot with beds of flowers relieving the unattractive, bare-looking Harbour approach, and containing a Statue of Queen Victoria, erected in 1890.

Facing the sea hereabouts are some of St. Helier's many hotels. Extending to the left is the fine Esplanade. To-
wards the right rises Fort Regent, at which we will presently look more closely, and ahead, leading into the town, are two thoroughfares. That on the right, MuIcaster Street, goes to the Parish Church and to the immediate neighbourhood of Royal Square, both of which can also be reached by way of the left-hand thoroughfare, Conway Street, which ends at Bond Street on the right and Broad Street on the left. A few steps along the latter is the General Post Office. In Bond Street are the offices of the Southern Railway and the Great Western Railway. On the right also is

The Parish Church.

The town church of St. Helier is one of the twelve parish churches of the island. It dates from the middle of the
fourteenth century, but is of little architectural interest.

In 1863-7 it was thoroughly restored. Unlike nearly all the other parish churches, it has retained its square tower.

Stained-glass windows display Biblical subjects. At the eastern end of the south wall is a tablet to the memory of the gallant Peirson, who was buried under the tower.

On the west wall of the south aisle is a tablet removed from the floor near the north door, in memory of Maximilian Norrey, who died in 1591 while serving in the army of Henry IV of Bourbon, King of France and Navarre. The inscription is in Latin. French and English translations are given on adjacent slabs. The Norreys, whose arms are on one of the gateways of Mont Orgueil Castle, were buried in a vault in this church.

The organ, placed in the church in 1922, is the finest in the Channel Islands.

In the churchyard, against the east wall of the church, is a flat tombstone recording in French the death of P. H.
Durell, Jun., on the 31st April, 1755, aged 4 years and 8 months.

On the north side of the church, in a line with the west front, is an upright stone inscribed : " Icy repose le corps de Mtre Jean Laffoley decede le 30eme Jeanvier, 1759 age de 100 ans et quatre mois."

Links
(1) http://www.townchurch.org.je/st_helier_town_church_town_church_jersey_history.htm

St Helier: 1932

A dip into the past today, with some details from the 1932-33 Ward Lock and Co Guide to The Channel Islands and Parts of Normandy and Brittany.

It is interesting to see how the topography of St Helier was considered a mess even back then! There was no Howard Davis Park, and the Triangle Park where bands played on a Sunday is that strip of green land beside the Grand Hotel where Queen Victoria's Statue now resides. The site of the Howard Davis Park was only purchased by T.B. Davis in 1937.

The population was 26,314.  The population is now 97,857, and the population of St Helier at 33,522 (2011) exceeds that and even did so in 2001 when it was 28,310. So this was a very sparsely populated Island.

Some of the amenities are present today. Despite mergers and name changes, the main banks listed are still pretty much where they were in 1932. The Havre des Pas Swimming Pool is still open, although it doesn't make admission charges any more except for use of lockers, showers etc. The West Park pool having recently been closed, doesn't look as if it will re-open in the near future, but the site is still visible.

The main library existed, but only as a reference library. It's amusing to see the precision of the number of books held - exactly 20,000!

For other libraries, people would take a subscription. The best known (but not mentioned in this guide) was probably the Boots Lending Library. The first library was started in 1898 by Florence Boot, who was greatly interested in art & literature. My mother remembers in the 1950s having a subscription as a birthday present to the Boots Library.

By 1903, 143 of the 300 Boots shops had a library. You could pay a yearly subscription of 10/6 for one book at a time or 42/- for 6 & 7/- for each extra volume. Alternatively you could pay as you read , leaving a deposit of 2/6 & paying per day that you borrowed the book - the price depending on the category of book; the most popular being the more expensive. The cleanliness of the books was a key point in advertising - makes you wonder what state the books were in from other commercial libraries. The major city branches had desks & chairs as well as notepaper & flowers. The extra services available included reservations, much like today, & also the ability to leave a wish list & the books to be reserved when they came in. There were all sorts of additional memberships for holiday periods only, juniors & arrangements for those in the country. Boots also had library sales to sell off the older & less popular books. The shield on the front cover was crossed through when the books were sold. (1)

There was a lot more diversity of local newspapers available to Islanders which is amazing considering the smaller population. But then we must remember that newspapers were one of the main outlets for news and stories to read, without the myriad magazines and other forms of media available today from abroad. One newspaper catered for the French speaking population; we forget how large that was in comparison to the whole population.

There was a French consulate, and perhaps more surprisingly one for the United States!

A good sales gimmick was the discount available to travellers from England on day trips to St Malo, thus generating extra passengers for that service. It would be interesting to know if it would be viable today for Condor to bring in.

With regard to the boats, the early boats left in the morning, and that's when honeymooners would depart. It also became a stock phrase when I was growing up at people from the UK who grumbled about the Island - "there's always the early boat in the morning."  That is, alas, no longer the case, and nowadays day trips to Guernsey - like those I used to enjoy as a boy -often leave very little time to explore St Peter Port.

Until the demise of Sealink, the railway and boat links were run by the same management, which was very good for matching up as the timetables would be arranged to facilitate the visitor, or the traveller to the UK. In 1932, the railways had not been nationalised, and there were two lines both touting for passengers to and from the UK.

And when you arrived, there was a porter available, something we do not have now. I love the idea of a porter taking your luggage "to any part of St Helier"!

Cab fares are also interesting - by horse! While motorized buses were making headway on the Island's roads, the principal other form of transport available to hire was literally "horse power"! I wonder what state the roads around St Helier were in, and who cleaned up the horse droppings.

And with Eastbourne trying to steal Jersey's crown, even in 1932, it was "sunny Jersey". I've not heard of the name "St Martin's Summer", for the Autumn weather, which is perhaps not surprising, because it has dropped out of common use:

There was a time when all of Europe understood the phrase: only the British, with our expansions into occident and orient, displaced it with another saying. Indian Summer has nothing to do with India. The phrase was used by European colonists in North America in the 18th century to describe the bright, still season in which native raids ceased and the warriors went home to harvest. The precise chain of inference between the season and the Native Americans is lost in etymological dispute. There are hints of treachery in it, perhaps because ''Indians'' were held to be treacherous, and the magical season was brief and unreliable.(2)

---

ST HELIER

A  LARGE harbour ; a maze of streets, busy and prosperous;. a huge fort rising perpendicularly above the town ; good shops ; numerous places of worship ; a miscellaneous assortment of carriages and well-appointed motor-coaches, plus a general air of comfort and well-being, are the prominent features of St. Helier.

So irregularly is the town planned that we shall not attempt precisely to describe its topography. Suffice it to say that the chief buildings of interest are in the vicinity of Royal Square (near Fort Regent), and that the best shops will be found in Queen Street, King Street, Beresford Street and Halkett Place.

General Information.

Approaches

By steamer from St. Peter Port, Guernsey, 25 miles ;from Southampton, via Guernsey, 140 miles ; from Weymouth, via Guernsey, 100 miles ; from Plymouth ; from St.Brieuc, 50 miles ; from St. Malo, 42 miles ; from Granville, 30 miles ; from Carteret, 18 miles.

Bands.

Local bands play in the Triangle Park or in the neighbouring pavilion on Sundays, and occasionally during the week.

Banks (closed on Wednesday afternoon):

Lloyds, Broad Street ; Westminster, Broad Street ; Midland, Library Place and Hill Street; Barclays, Library Place; Jersey Savings Bank, New Street.

Bathing - Excellent.

Two extensive pools of sea-water-one known as Victoria Marine Lake, and controlled by the West End Bathing Co., near West Park Station ; the other at Havres des Pas  -are retained by circular walls. Bathing in the pools is safe and convenient at all states of the tide, and mixed bathing is permissible at all times. Single ticket at the Victoria Marine Lake, tickets, single ticket 6d. At Havre des Pas, single ticket, 6d.  Admission for non-bathers, 2d. 12 tickets 5s. 6d. At First Tower there is good bathing from machines.

Beaches.

On the western side of the Harbour, St. Aubin's Bay presents at low water an extensive stretch of sand, perfectly safe when the tide has receded. This beach is flanked by a solidly-built granite promenade and a fine broad thoroughfare called Victoria Avenue and Fort Regent the sandy bay and beach of Havre des Pas is studded with rocks. Around the various indentations of the beach is a broad stone and cement walk, with seats at intervals.

Boating.

Owing to the deadly nature of the coast and the strong tides, sailing or rowing boats venturing beyond St. Aubin's Bay should be accompanied by a capable man.

Bowling.

At Westmount (near People's Park), 4d. per hour, and at the Recreation Ground, Greve d'Azette.

Bus Service.-See page 28.

Cab Fares.-By distance : For each mile or fraction thereof, 1s. 6d. By time : (one-horse vehicles) : Each half-hour or portion thereof, 2s. ; vehicles with two horses, each half-hour or portion thereof, 3s. For luggage outside the cab, 3d. each package.  From the boat to the town, or vice versa, 3s.

Chief Buildings of interest to visitors :

Elizabeth Castle. Open daily, Sundays included, 6d.

Royal Court House and States Chamber, Royal Square. The attendant will show visitors over these fine buildings (free).

Public Library, Royal Square. Open (free) 10 to 1 ; 2 to 9.

Town. Hall, York Street. An attendant will show visitors over the buildings, which include a picture gallery (free).

Police Court, adjoining Town Hall. Open at 10 a.m. Mondays, Tuesdays, Wednesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays.

Parish Church of St. Helier can be seen daily.

Museum of the Société Jersiaise, 9 Pier Road

Markets. The buildings in Halkett Place and Beresford Street are well worth a visit.

Climate.-" Sunny" Jersey is the familiar appellation, for this is the sunniest spot in the United Kingdom. The air is equable and mild, bracing on the high ground, but less so in the valleys. A long, sunny autumn, called St. Martin's Summer, begins about October 10. Excellent water supply and drainage.

Clubs.-The Victoria has an imposing house in Beresford Street ; United, Royal Square ; Cesarean, King Street ; Y.M.C.A., with debating and chess clubs, New Street ; Rotary; Mechanics' Institute, Halkett Place ; United Services, Queen Street ; Y.W.C. Association, Société Jersiaise, Royal Channel Islands Yacht Club, etc. Clubs for golf, cycling, archery, lawn tennis, rowing, cricket, and many other sports.

Musical. Jersey Choral Society and Jersey Musical Union.
 
Consulates.-French, 24 Hill Street ; United States, 15 Royal Square.
 
Croquet.-At Recreation Grounds, Greve d'Azette.

Cycling.-Highly popular on account of the fine roads and convenient runs. Many machines are brought over by visitors, but those who do not propose to spend a large proportion of their time a wheel will find it more convenient to hire a machine. Every cycle must bear a number plate obtainable at the police office.

Early Closing Day.-Thursday. Banks close on Wednesday afternoon.

Entertainments

The current attractions are advertised in the Jersey papers, and in the Visitor's Guide, weekly, gratis.

On the eastern side of the Harbour Triangle Park, (or, if wet, in the West Park Pavilion), concerts, troupes, etc.

Opera House (Gloucester Street), Alhambra (Phillips Street), the Picture House (Don Street) and West's Picture Palace (Peter Street).

Springfield Grounds and Pavilion (off St. Mark's Road), concerts, shows, sports.

Fishing

Fair-not so good as formerly. Motor launches and yachts put out daily from Albert Pier at 11 a.m. Lines and
bait supplied.

Libraries.-The Public Library is in Royal Square (Reference only ; 20,000 volumes). Open 10 to 1, 2 to 9, free. There are several Subscription Libraries in the town.

Museum.-9 Pier Road, near the Parish Church. Open, Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays 10 to 12, 2 to 4. Admission 6d. And May to September, free, on Thursdays from 2.30 to 5, by  the main entrance, Caledonia Place.

Newspapers.-The London papers are on sale in the town shortly after the arrival of the morning boat. The local papers are Evening Post (daily), Morning News (daily). Twice weekly : Les Chroniques de Jersey (French). The Weekly Post, Jersey Critic (weekly).

Passport Office.-Office of the Lieut.-Governor and District Staff, Rouge Bouillon.

Population.-Census 1921: 26,314.

Porters.

For taking luggage on or off steamer, 3d. ; when taken at the steps from the boats to the landing-place, 6d. ; to any part of St. Helier, 1s up to 100 lbs. ; one-third more up to 200 lbs.; double over 200 lbs.

Railway Stations.-The Western Railway terminus (for St. Aubin and Corbiere) is at the Harbour end of the Esplanade. The terminus of the Eastern Railway (to Gorey and Mont Orgueil Castle) is opposite Snow Hill, to the rear of Fort Regent.

Sailing

Several yachts and motor launches advertise sailing excursions at moderate prices.

Steamers.

From about the middle of July to the end of September there is a daily service (Sundays excepted), via Guernsey, to Southampton, from the Albert Pier, at 715 a.m., and to Weymouth, from North Quay, at 7.45 a.m.
For the rest of the year, via Guernsey, to Southampton, from Albert Pier, Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays at 7.30 a.m. ; to Weymouth, from North Quay, Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays at 7.30 a.m.
Return tickets are available by either route.

Southern Railway Office, 6 Bond Street ; G. W. Office, 9 Bond Street.

There are also frequent sailings, particulars of which are advertised locally, from St. Helier to Granville and St. Malo. Less frequently to St. Brieue (Hare Steamship Co.), and from Gorey to Carteret.

Passports must be procured before embarking for France. District Office, Rouge Bouillon.

Excursions to Sark and around the Island during the season.

Particulars will be found in the local press.

Passengers holding the return halves of Great Western Railway or Southern Railway tickets can obtain tickets for St. Malo or Granville at reduced rates.

Tennis Courts.-At the Recreation Ground, Greve d'Azette, one mile from Royal Square, two minutes from Greve d'Azette station on the Eastern Railway. Two grass and ten gravel courts. 2s. per hour. And in Victoria Avenue, at the Lower Park, and Le Chat Noir.

Links
(1) http://www.dnsmedia.co.uk/posts/view/63
(2) http://www.telegraph.co.uk/topics/weather/6243586/Indian-Summer-No-its-the-sunshine-season-of-St-Martin.html