Looking around Guernsey 1972 – Part 5
Castle Cornet
STANDING like a lone sentinel overlooking the harbour mouth is Castle Cornet, an ancient fortress that has played an important and exciting part in Guernsey's turbulent history. Built, according to some authorities, in the reign of King Stephen, Castle Cornet has been the scene of numerous hard-fought battles, and on several occasions during the continuous strife with France, its steps have echoed to the tread of the invading French army.
During the Civil War in the reign of Charles I the island supported Cromwell, but the Royalist Governor, Sir Peter Osborne, withdrew with a handful of the King's men to Castle Cornet, which they held for the King for nine years. Indeed, the Castle was the last Royalist stronghold to surrender to the forces of Parliament (December 15th; 1651).
In 1940, the Germans took over Castle Cornet, although it was hardly adaptable to the needs of modern warfare. As an example of military architecture it is remarkable because it has borne the influences of succeeding armies from Norman times right up to the fortifications installed by the Nazis.
The Castle was the property of the War Office until 1948, when it was presented to the States by the British Government. It is maintained as an ancient monument and is full of romance and historic charm.
Thousands of people visit it each year, and many take advantage of the conducted tour which begins every day at 10.45 a.m. and ends about 11.30 a.m. Actual hours of opening are:— weekdays (except Saturday afternoons) — 10.30 a.m. to 12.30 p.m. and 2.30 p.m. to 6.00 p.m., and Sundays — 10.30 a.m. to 12.30 p.m.
The Castle also contains the Royal Guernsey Militia Museum, the Maritime Museum, the Armoury — showing former uniforms, models and weapons —and an Occupation Museum. More peaceful is a collection of water colours by the 19th-century local artist, Major Peter Le Lievre, a Guernsey Militiaman who has charmingly depicted island scenes and people of over a century ago.
Women visitors, particularly, enjoy the gardens at Castle Cornet, which are very fine in late spring and summer and are looked after by the head keeper and his assistants.
Victor Hugo's House
HAUTEVILLE HOUSE, the home in exile of the famous 19th-century French writer Victor Hugo, is one of the most interesting houses in Guernsey, and every year thousands of British and French people make their way up the steep Hauteville road on the south side of St. Peter Port to visit it.
Hugo lived in Guernsey from 1855 until 1870, when the Second Empire fell. His home now belongs to the City of Paris, and has been preserved as a memorial. Here, you can see all his personal belongings and furniture, just as Hugo left them.
From the high window of his study you can look out over the sea as he did, and on a fine day, pick out the coast line of his native land. Standing in his study, Hugo penned his famous book, The Toilers of the Sea, written about and dedicated to the sturdy island folk among whom he had made his home and also gave much for the poor children of Guernsey and it is as much for his charitable work as his writings that he was affectionately revered in the island.
His statue stands in Candie Gardens, and shows him striding forth in flowing cloak — just as he used to do on his marathon walks around Guernsey. In his last year of exile, the poet planted an oak tree at Hauteville, predicting that by the time it was full grown there would be a united Europe.
Hugo's oak has become a symbol of European unity, and sprigs from it tended in a Guernsey nursery have been planted in many Continental countries. In 1970, delegates from several European centres came to Guernsey to celebrate the centenary of the oak tree's planting, and take part in a ceremony held below Hugo's statue.
Candie Gardens lie just above St. Peter Port. These miniature botanic gardens contain a variety of sub-tropical plants, trees and shrubs grown in the open — including a lemon tree bearing fruit that frequently ripens.
Hugo lived in Guernsey from 1855 until 1870, when the Second Empire fell. His home now belongs to the City of Paris, and has been preserved as a memorial. Here, you can see all his personal belongings and furniture, just as Hugo left them.
From the high window of his study you can look out over the sea as he did, and on a fine day, pick out the coast line of his native land. Standing in his study, Hugo penned his famous book, The Toilers of the Sea, written about and dedicated to the sturdy island folk among whom he had made his home and also gave much for the poor children of Guernsey and it is as much for his charitable work as his writings that he was affectionately revered in the island.
His statue stands in Candie Gardens, and shows him striding forth in flowing cloak — just as he used to do on his marathon walks around Guernsey. In his last year of exile, the poet planted an oak tree at Hauteville, predicting that by the time it was full grown there would be a united Europe.
Hugo's oak has become a symbol of European unity, and sprigs from it tended in a Guernsey nursery have been planted in many Continental countries. In 1970, delegates from several European centres came to Guernsey to celebrate the centenary of the oak tree's planting, and take part in a ceremony held below Hugo's statue.
Candie Gardens lie just above St. Peter Port. These miniature botanic gardens contain a variety of sub-tropical plants, trees and shrubs grown in the open — including a lemon tree bearing fruit that frequently ripens.
Guernsey's colourful past
FOR so small an island, Guernsey is rich in evidence of a colourful past in the form of ancient dolmens, castles and forts. It is a quality that has come to be recognised nowadays as historical depth, and many visitors are fascinated by its abundance in the island. Although the States of Guernsey has a very limited budget in comparison to the UK government they are doing what they can to preserve and restore the most significant of these ancient monuments.
There are quite a number of dolmens — tombs of prehistoric tribes — in Guernsey. Probably the most interesting is the 3,000-year-old Delius Dolmen near the yacht marina in the Vale. It has been described as one of the finest examples of a passage grave in Western Europe. Electric light has been laid on there, so you will be able to see the marvellously preserved prehistoric rock carving known as "The Guardian of the Tomb".
Also interesting are the La Varde dolmen at the Pembroke end of L'Ancresse Common, and Le Creux as Faies at L'Eree. But Le Catioroc dolmen, standing on a mound overlooking Perelle Bay, has the weirdest history of all. The west coast is still considered "witches' country" by many local people, and Le Catioroc was one of the chief meeting places for the Guernsey witches' "sabbat". At this Friday-night orgy they hurled insults at the Chapel of the Holy Virgin on Lihou island, chanting, "Que Hou Hou Marie Lihou". According to local antiquarian Mr. J. Stevens Cox, "Hou" is the name of an ancient Breton god.
At one time witches appear to have got a good grip on Guernsey; island folk-lore is full of them, while the Royal Court holds records of actual witch trials that have taken place.
A pagan but more harmless lady, affectionately known as "La Grand'Mere du Chimquiere", stands at the gate of St. Martin's Church. An authority from the British Museum dates the sculpture at around 700 B.C. Poor Grand'Mere still bears a scar near her skirted shin-bones where a former church warden, affronted at the presence of a heretic so near to the church, tried unsuccessfully to hack her down.
One of the island's most ancient fortresses is Ivy Castle, near Le Bouet, said to be a Norman stronghold older than any in England, because it was built before the Conquest by William the Conqueror's father, Robert the Devil. The real name of the fortress is "Le Chateau des Marais", and Guernsey's Ancient Monuments Committee are working on its restoration, which may take some years. The size and layout of Ivy Castle, with its inner and outer baileys and its moat, could really be appreciated best from the air. From the outer circle of defence wall, sturdy Guernseymen of old are said to have hurled arrows, stones and other missiles at marauding pirates creeping towards them over the marshlands of the Vale.
Also interesting are the La Varde dolmen at the Pembroke end of L'Ancresse Common, and Le Creux as Faies at L'Eree. But Le Catioroc dolmen, standing on a mound overlooking Perelle Bay, has the weirdest history of all. The west coast is still considered "witches' country" by many local people, and Le Catioroc was one of the chief meeting places for the Guernsey witches' "sabbat". At this Friday-night orgy they hurled insults at the Chapel of the Holy Virgin on Lihou island, chanting, "Que Hou Hou Marie Lihou". According to local antiquarian Mr. J. Stevens Cox, "Hou" is the name of an ancient Breton god.
At one time witches appear to have got a good grip on Guernsey; island folk-lore is full of them, while the Royal Court holds records of actual witch trials that have taken place.
A pagan but more harmless lady, affectionately known as "La Grand'Mere du Chimquiere", stands at the gate of St. Martin's Church. An authority from the British Museum dates the sculpture at around 700 B.C. Poor Grand'Mere still bears a scar near her skirted shin-bones where a former church warden, affronted at the presence of a heretic so near to the church, tried unsuccessfully to hack her down.
One of the island's most ancient fortresses is Ivy Castle, near Le Bouet, said to be a Norman stronghold older than any in England, because it was built before the Conquest by William the Conqueror's father, Robert the Devil. The real name of the fortress is "Le Chateau des Marais", and Guernsey's Ancient Monuments Committee are working on its restoration, which may take some years. The size and layout of Ivy Castle, with its inner and outer baileys and its moat, could really be appreciated best from the air. From the outer circle of defence wall, sturdy Guernseymen of old are said to have hurled arrows, stones and other missiles at marauding pirates creeping towards them over the marshlands of the Vale.
Vale Castle at St. Sampson's is also very old, but its origins are lost in time. From afar, it gives an illusion of the strong fortification it was at one time, but you will see as you approach that it is really a ruin. Round about 1805, a Russian garrison was stationed at Vale Castle. Gentle to children and kindly enough when sober, they turned into wild ruffians under the influence of liquor and no woman was said to be safe from them. They terrorised St. Sampson's to such an extent that one Guernsey family actually emigrated to America because of them!
At key points in Guernsey you will see old fortifications that are links in a chain of defence covering centuries. Fort Pezerie, Rocquaine Castle (also known as Fort Grey and "The Cup and Saucer") Fort Saumarez — all have a place in the island's history, as do the many Martello towers.
Fort George, which has now been developed as a luxury housing estate for wealthy settlers, was a British garrison from 1780 until the outbreak of World War II, and English redcoats once swam in Soldiers' Bay.
Feudalism survives in Guernsey today in its fiefs — parcels of land owned and ruled over by seigneurs or lords of the manor. The seigneur still has special privileges, such as conge, which entitles him to two per cent of the selling price of any property sold within his fief as long as it does not change hands more than once a year.
Some of the ancient fiefs have seigneurs who are lords of the manor by right of purchase, but the most splendid example of a hereditary seigneurie is perhaps Sausmarez Manor in St. Martin's — a stately home that has belonged to the de Sausmarez family for over 600 years. It is open to the public in the summer and is well worth a visit. You will see here the old Tudor Court House, where members of the fief and their seigneur still hold feudal court once a year.
At key points in Guernsey you will see old fortifications that are links in a chain of defence covering centuries. Fort Pezerie, Rocquaine Castle (also known as Fort Grey and "The Cup and Saucer") Fort Saumarez — all have a place in the island's history, as do the many Martello towers.
Fort George, which has now been developed as a luxury housing estate for wealthy settlers, was a British garrison from 1780 until the outbreak of World War II, and English redcoats once swam in Soldiers' Bay.
Feudalism survives in Guernsey today in its fiefs — parcels of land owned and ruled over by seigneurs or lords of the manor. The seigneur still has special privileges, such as conge, which entitles him to two per cent of the selling price of any property sold within his fief as long as it does not change hands more than once a year.
Some of the ancient fiefs have seigneurs who are lords of the manor by right of purchase, but the most splendid example of a hereditary seigneurie is perhaps Sausmarez Manor in St. Martin's — a stately home that has belonged to the de Sausmarez family for over 600 years. It is open to the public in the summer and is well worth a visit. You will see here the old Tudor Court House, where members of the fief and their seigneur still hold feudal court once a year.
Several Guernsey churches are very old and St. Saviour's is the most untouched by the centuries, and stands at the roadside almost exactly as it was when it was built in 1394. The Vicar of St. Saviour's has launched a scheme to restore St. Appoline, which is to be rededicated afterwards as a Chapel of Christian Unity. Restoration of what a UK expert _ has said are fine examples of mediaeval frescos will probably be one of the most costly items, and may take several years to achieve.
Hitler's Legacy
IN 1940, Hitler invaded the Channel Islands, which the Germans occupied for five dreary years. To turn Guernsey into an island fortress, vast quantities of concrete and steel were poured into it and thousands of slave workers were brought from all over Europe.
It is surprising how few signs there are now in this peaceful holiday island of Nazi Germany, considering there was scarcely an acre of open space that was not used as a gun emplacement, strongpoint, observation post or ammunition store. The concrete fortifications you will see on the cliffs — particularly along the west coast — have been left because they would have been too costly to demolish, but a number of structures have been filled in, covered over or blocked to make the cliffs and commons safer and more sightly. Some of Hitler's relics such as tunnels and bunkers have been turned to peaceful uses —for storage, cow-sheds, garages and even converted into houses!
The vast underground hospital at St. Andrew's —the largest German structure in the Channel Islands —was reopened years ago as a tourist attraction. Another spectacular fortification was the "Mirus" battery near the west coast.
The Germans mounted 12-inch guns here on huge circular emplacements that you can still see. Each gun was camouflaged by a dummy cottage that traversed with it, and a network of underground quarters and store-rooms adjoined the sites.
The Occupation Museum at the Forest contains hundreds of interesting relics, set out in such a way that visitors are given a fascinating glimpse into life in Guernsey under the German jackboot.
IN 1940, Hitler invaded the Channel Islands, which the Germans occupied for five dreary years. To turn Guernsey into an island fortress, vast quantities of concrete and steel were poured into it and thousands of slave workers were brought from all over Europe.
It is surprising how few signs there are now in this peaceful holiday island of Nazi Germany, considering there was scarcely an acre of open space that was not used as a gun emplacement, strongpoint, observation post or ammunition store. The concrete fortifications you will see on the cliffs — particularly along the west coast — have been left because they would have been too costly to demolish, but a number of structures have been filled in, covered over or blocked to make the cliffs and commons safer and more sightly. Some of Hitler's relics such as tunnels and bunkers have been turned to peaceful uses —for storage, cow-sheds, garages and even converted into houses!
The vast underground hospital at St. Andrew's —the largest German structure in the Channel Islands —was reopened years ago as a tourist attraction. Another spectacular fortification was the "Mirus" battery near the west coast.
The Germans mounted 12-inch guns here on huge circular emplacements that you can still see. Each gun was camouflaged by a dummy cottage that traversed with it, and a network of underground quarters and store-rooms adjoined the sites.
The Occupation Museum at the Forest contains hundreds of interesting relics, set out in such a way that visitors are given a fascinating glimpse into life in Guernsey under the German jackboot.
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