Guernsey in 1974 – Part 4
This is an extract from Peter Haining’s guide book of 1974, which is as much interest today for the historian as to the tourist, as many of the places and industries described in his book have long vanished. Please do not take it as a current guide. Italics are my notes on the situation today.
St. Sampson:
St. Sampson is the only other port apart from St. Peter Port on Guernsey. It has lost some of its importance in recent years with the slowing down in exports of granite, once a very large industry in the hinterland just behind the harbour. (Old granite quarries and mills are still visible there today.)
Despite this St. Sampson is worth visiting as it is now a centre for boat repairing and craft of all shapes and sizes can be seen in the dry docks. Coal, timber and oil are also delivered here.
St. Sampson has transitioned from a gritty 19th-century granite-exporting and commercial cargo port into a modern residential and leisure boating hub. While old granite quarries are now utilized as freshwater storage reservoirs and the inner harbor has become a marina, traditional commercial operations like coal deliveries and dry dock repairs are largely outdated. You can read more about Guernsey's history and geography.
On the actual seashore is St. Sampson’s Church, the oldest on the island, which dates from the 12th Century. St. Sampson, an English monk, landed on the island in the 6th Century and built a tiny chapel which was later replaced by the present church. He is now regarded as the Patron Saint of Guernsey and has a feast day on July 28th. He is also credited with a number of miracles, including banishing all moles, toads and snakes from the island. (It is interesting to note that these types of creatures are still never found on Guernsey.)
Samson of Dol, a Celtic missionary monk traveling from Dunmonia in England and Brittany, landed on this exact spot around 550 AD and erected a primitive timber chapel or oratory, introducing Christianity to Guernsey. It is true that Guernsey has no native snakes or moles. However, this is due to post-glacial geography (the island separated from continental Europe earlier than neighbouring Jersey, preventing these slow-moving animals from colonizing the landmass), not a miracle.
There are several monuments to seamen in the harbour — all in French—and one of them (commemorating Daniel de Lisle Brock) is believed to have been a menhir.
Daniel de Lisle Brock was one of Guernsey's most celebrated historic Bailiffs (serving from 1821 to 1842). Near the slipway at St. Sampson's Harbour, there is a large, upright granite pillar erected in his memory. Local antiquarians and modern archaeologists strongly believe this stone was originally a prehistoric megalithic menhir (standing stone) repurposed by the islanders.
A further strange memorial is to be found in St. Sampson’s Church, and it must surely be among the most unusual. The tablet reports the death of Thomas Falla, an 18-yearold Guernsey Lieutenant, who was killed in the Siege of Seringapatam in 1799. What killed him was a 26 lb. cannon ball which lodged itself between the two bones of one of his thighs—and went undiscovered by the surgeon who examined him! The explanation given later when the unfortunate man eventually died and a post-mortem was carried out, was that the hole made by the shot had become so inflamed that it had closed over, leaving the ball further hidden behind the thigh bones. A working knowledge of French is needed to read the tablet—but this does not prevent anyone from feeling horrified amazement at the incredible tale it tells.
The French-inscribed marble tablet is located exactly inside St. Sampson's Parish Church. Lieutenant Thomas Falla of the 12th Regiment of Foot was wounded on 6 April 1799 during the assault on Tipu Sultan’s stronghold in India. The guidebook's gruesome medical details are completely correct: a massive, heavy solid-iron shot did indeed pass deep into his thigh and wedge perfectly between his femur and surrounding structure. Because the entry wound was heavily swollen and inflamed, the military surgeon missed it during a physical examination.Falla tragically survived in agonizing pain for six hours after the injury before dying, at which point the military doctors extracted the ball during a post-mortem to the absolute shock of the regiment. The plaque remains a popular spot for dark-tourism enthusiasts visiting the church today.