Guernsey in 1974 – Part 3
This is an extract from Peter Haining’s guide book of 1974, which is as much interest today for the historian as to the tourist, as many of the places and industries described in his book have long vanished. Please do not take it as a current guide.
St. Peter Port
St. Peter Port is said by many people to be the most attractive harbour in the Channel Islands. The town nestles on a hillside overlooking the multi-coloured array of ships and boats of all sizes, and has an old world atmosphere which is quite unique. The streets are narrow and wind between tier upon tier of old houses—some of which have remained unchanged for centuries.
The early history of the port is none too clear, but it is known that by the 14th Century it was a bustling market town safeguarded against attack. The market was built in 1780 and soon became the centre of business affairs. Here the islanders bought and sold fish, meat, flowers, fruit and vegetables. In succeeding years the market was added to and the various States Buildings erected.
In the early 2000s, the historic Town Market Buildings underwent a massive redevelopment. Instead of independent Victorian butchers and fishermen hawking raw goods, the imposing granite arches now house a modern supermarket (underneath the original fish-scale roof tiles), high-street retailers, the Guille-Allès Library, and a bustling public courtyard
Not far from the market is the Guille-Alles Library which was created by two Guernseymen with an urge to make their fellow countrymen read. Their task in the early years was anything but easy, and it was not until 1886 that the library as it is seen today took shape. The library is worth visiting both for its extensive range of volumes (which can be borrowed by visitors on payment of a subscription) and the record it contains of the German Occupation of Guernsey. Open daily (except Sunday) 9.10 a.m. to 12.45 p.m. and 1.45 p.m. to 5 p.m.
The library ran as a paid subscription service for nearly a century. However, in 1981, following severe financial difficulties, the States of Guernsey partnered with the Guille-Allès Trust to make the library completely free for the public. Tourists no longer pay a "subscription". Instead, holidaymakers can sign up for a temporary Visitor Card by providing a fully returnable £15 deposit. The archaic lunch hour closure was abolished decades ago. The modern opening times are seamlessly continuous, featuring late-night access.
Guernsey has another library, named after its donor. Osmond Priaulx, in Candie Road, which has a very comprehensive reference library and a huge collection of rare books and fascinating old documents about the island. It is open to the public daily from 10.30 a.m. to 1 p.m. and 2 p.m. to 4.30 p.m. Across the road from the Priaulx is Candie Gardens which is a riot of coloured flowers during the season and also boasts a lemon tree which regularly produces fruit.
In the vicinity is the Victoria Tower, a tall, medieval-looking turret, which stands on the site of an old windmill. It was built in 1846 to commemorate the visit of Queen Victoria and a climb to the top presents the visitor with one of the finest views of the harbour and coastline. The key to gain entry to the tower may be obtained from the Fire Station opposite.
The Priaulx Library and Candie Gardens details remain largely accurate, though opening hours have been extended to 9:30 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. on weekdays. While Victoria Tower commemorates Queen Victoria's 1846 visit, the key to access the interior is now obtained from the Guernsey Museum at Candie rather than the nearby Fire Station.
Turning back towards the harbour, it is not too long a walk to the Parish Church and the Lukis and Island Museum. The Parish Church is generally agreed to be one of the finest ecclesiastical buildings in the Channel Islands. There is believed to have been a wooden church on the "site since at least 1048, but it seems that the present stone building did not begin to take shape until about the 12th Century. It is well worth paying a visit.
Formally known as Sancti Petri de Portu, the very first historical record of the Town Church dates to 1048 when William of Normandy granted it to the Abbot of Marmoutier. The core stone architecture began taking its current shape in the 12th century.
The Lukis and Island Museum on Tower Hill is arranged in the house of the man who was mainly responsible for its formation, Captain Lukis. The majority of the exhibits are relics from the tumuli and dolmens which have been excavated on Guernsey. For those who have spent time looking at the island’s numerous prehistoric remains, this collection should come as the finale. It is open daily (except Sundays and Wednesdays) from 10.30 a.m. to 1 p.m. and 2 p.m. to 4 p.m.
The museum on Tower Hill no longer exists. In 1978, the States of Guernsey opened the purpose-built Guernsey Museum & Art Gallery inside Candie Gardens. The entire Lukis collection of prehistoric stone tools, ancient pottery, and dolmen artifacts was moved there, where it serves as the crown jewel of the island's permanent archaeology exhibits today.
The former home of the museum at St. Barnabas Church now houses the official Island Archives, which preserves historical documents and public records for the Bailiwick.
The Royal Court House is another building with historical association which is often missed by the visitor because of its situation on the heights above the town. Originally built in 1799, the building serves as police court, office of Le Greffe (records department where ancient and modern documents about the island are kept) and assembly room for the States’ meetings. These gatherings are open to the general public and presided over by the Bailiff, Mr. J. H. Loveridges who combines the function of Prime Minister and Mr. Speaker. Also in attendance are the 12 conseillers, the 33 deputies, the douzaine (or parish council) representatives, the Island clergy, and the Crown Officers. The Magistrate’s court sits every Monday, Wednesday and Friday in the mornings and can be attended by the public.
Following a historic public referendum, Guernsey entirely dismantled its traditional parish-based electoral districts. The modern parliamentary structure of the States of Deliberation comprises:38 People's Deputies: All 38 are elected from one single, island-wide constituency. Under this plurality-at-large system, every voter on the island's electoral roll receives up to 38 votes to cast across the entire pool of candidates. 2 Alderney Representatives: Chosen from the States of Alderney to represent their specific island interests. Presiding Officers & Law Officers: The Bailiff (or Deputy Bailiff) presides over meetings, alongside His Majesty's Procureur and Comptroller (who have speaking rights but cannot vote). This completely eliminates the 1974 structure. There are no longer dedicated parish deputies or institutional seats reserved for the island clergy or douzaine (parish council) representatives in the primary legislative parliament.
Of all the sights in St. Peter Port, there is none to match Castle Cornet which sits splendidly in the harbour at the end of its causeway. Built in the early part of the 13th Century, it has been considerably reconstructed during its history, and for a time in the Middle Ages served as the seat of government of the Channel Islands when Jersey and Guernsey were administered together. It is crowded with history, and during the Occupation when it was used by the Germans, Hitler considered it one of his “prize” captures. There is a comprehensive museum in the castle which illustrates both the uses to which it was put and the men who commanded it. An easy way of telling whether the castle is open or not is to look for the Guernsey flag flying over the gateway. The actual hours are 10.30 a.m. to 12.30 p.m. and 2.30 p.m. to 6 p.m. on week days; and it is closed on Saturday afternoon but open on Sunday morning.
Castle Cornet in St. Peter Port features a rich history dating back to the 13th century and served as a heavily fortified stronghold during the German Occupation of World War II. Modern visitor access has been significantly updated, with the site now featuring five distinct museums and continuous daily operating hours from 10:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. during its seasonal opening period. You can read more about Castle Cornet on Visit Guernsey.
On The Esplanade at Picquet House is the headquarters of the Guernsey Railway Co. which run the island’s extremely efficient bus service (there is no railway, however!) Timetables and details of services can be obtained here, plus information about the numerous tours of Guernsey which the company operate (Central 78).
The claim that the Guernsey Railway Co. operates the island's bus service from Picquet House is historically accurate for a past era but entirely obsolete today. The modern transit network is coordinated via the States of Guernsey with current timetables and information available through official transport channels, while Picquet House has since transitioned out of use as a transport headquarters. For current timetable and travel information, visit States of Guernsey.
The harbour is a showpiece in itself, with a constant flow of boats in and out. Its history goes back many centuries, but the actual breakwaters and quays visible now were not begun until 1853. Today ships from England and the Continent dock here daily: some bringing tourists, others to collect the island produce of tomatoes and flowers. Pleasure trips to the other Channel Islands also use the area extensively, as do local fishermen and visiting yachtsmen.
An interesting reminder of the harbour’s past is contained in the name of a narrow road opposite the south-west corner, ““Rue des Vaches’’—‘*‘Cow Lane’’. It was here that cattle who had been brought over from France for slaughter were landed. The unfortunate animals could not be taken off on a quay so therefore they were pushed overboard from the ships and forced to swim to shore. Finally they were herded up the narrow lane to the abattoir.
Historical records confirm that the construction of the modern St. Peter Port artificial harbour officially began on August 24, 1853, following centuries of earlier maritime use. Accounts of cattle being pushed overboard from French vessels to swim ashore before being herded up Rue des Vaches (Cow Lane) to the local abattoir are also historically accurate.
For the visitor interested in tracing the extent of the walls which once encircled St. Peter Port, there are six granite stones scattered about the town centre. Five of these are built into the sides of buildings and must be sought carefully—but the sixth, just outside the General Post Office in Smith Street, is clearly spotted by a brass plaque which reads: “This stone is one of the six stones erected by order of the Royal Court in 1700 to mark the sites of the gates of the town when in the XIV century, St. Peter Port was walled in for defensive purposes.”’ Together these stones provide an intriguing reminder of the past. )
While the historical physical artefacts are precisely where the author claims, the 14th-century "town wall" history is entirely a myth, and the landmark building mentioned has closed its doors. here are indeed exactly six carved granite stones placed around the town centre. They are officially known as the Barrières de la Ville (Town Barriers).
Modern archaeology and Guernsey Museums research have comprehensively debunked the idea that St. Peter Port was ever a medieval walled city. While the Royal Court did secure a licence to build town defences in 1350, no evidence has ever been found to prove walls or large stone defensive gateways were actually built.
What are the stones actually for? The Royal Court ordered the placement of these stones in 1700 to mark the legal administrative boundaries (the tax and parish borders) of the town. Within these boundary lines, specific town laws applied regarding property division, vagrancy, and commerce.
The Brass Plaque and Location: The guidebook correctly notes that the sixth stone sits outside the General Post Office in Smith Street. It is carved with the words "Barrières de la Ville. 1700". But the iconic Smith Street Post Office permanently closed its doors after its multi-decade lease expired. Guernsey Post relocated its central town services down the hill to a modernized counter inside the Co-op store at the Market Buildings. While the building has changed uses, the historic boundary stone and its brass plaque remain embedded on the pavement outside for passing historical enthusiasts to find.
If you look for them today, you can find the stones integrated into the architecture at:
Smith Street (Outside the former Post Office)
The Pollet (Opposite Moore’s Hotel)
The Town Church (On the seaward side)
Cornet Street (At the top of the street near Tower Steps)
Fountain Street / Rosemary Lane (At the foot of the steps)
Posts
