Guernsey in 1974 – Part 5
This is an extract from Peter Haining’s guide book of 1974, which is as much interest today for the historian as to the tourist, as many of the places and industries described in his book have long vanished. Please do not take it as a current guide.
Bays for bathing – Part 1
Havelet Bay: Havelet adjoins the harbour at St. Peter Port and has the nearest beach to the town—but this, unfortunately, is inaccessible at high tide. The main attraction, however, is the extensive La Vallette Swimming Pool which provides good bathing whatever the state of the tide along the coast. The pool—it is actually three separate pools— protrudes into the sea and this makes the setting doubly attractive. Water polo is also played here. Havelet Bay is ideal for water-skiing and this takes place daily throughout the season. It is also considered a good starting point for hikers along the south coast, and the best route begins at the south end of the bay by the Halfmoon Restaurant— where, incidentally, all manner of information about walking in Guernsey can be obtained. Also in the bay, and not far from La Vallette Swimming Pool, are two smaller pools which are open daily.
Soldier’s Bay: A secluded little nook, reached by a path from Havelet Bay, the shore is pebbly, but bathing in the deep, clear water is a joy to swimmer and non-swimmer alike. The rocks, which jut into the sea are excellent as diving points. ““Soldier’s Bay” earned its name because it was for generations used by the soldiers stationed at what was once Fort George on the cliff top. The fort was built in 1780, but it was not until the German Occupation that it was actually called upon to serve its purpose. However, the shelling which it received from British aircraft in 1944 was so heavy and so costly in human life that it was evacuated immediately afterwards.
"Bathing... is a joy to swimmer and non-swimmer alike": This is no longer true. Following severe coastal subsidence and highly unstable cliff faces above the cove, the States of Guernsey officially closed Soldier's Bay to the public via footpaths. Landslides and rockfalls make accessing it by foot illegal or physically barricaded.
Fermain Bay: Undoubtedly one of the most popular bays on the island and always much frequented by families. A boat service runs between here and St. Peter Port which provides some splendid coastal views. There is a pebbly foreshore which gives way to white sand at half tide. The walk to the bay is long, but pleasant, winding through wooded countryside. The half-way mark is Le Chalet Hotel which was the first dwelling on Guernsey to have electric lighting at the beginning of this century. Then it was a private house belonging to a skilled mechanic who harnessed a dynamo to a stream which runs down the valley. Although the bay is now a haven for small boats, it was once considered the ideal place for a raiding party to land. In the 18th Century, for instance, a press gang landed at Fermain, crept inland and made off with several unwilling recruits. There are still one or two German fortifications visible including a white-washed sentry box which now serves as a ship marker and is generally called “The Pepper Pot’. The bay has its own restaurant and toilets, and floats can be hired. Bathing is safe except at high tide when the bank of pebbles make it unsafe for those not experienced. A final interesting point about Fermain is that in the early 1900’s the bay was segregated— women had to go at one end and men at the other. Needless to say this ruling is no longer enforced.
a commando raid under the direction of LieutenantColonel Durnford Slater landed and scoured the area for information about the Occupation. Today the exploits are still discussed, and elaborated on, by the local people. The area also has some interesting rock formations including the circular mass of granite called “Cannon Rock”’.
"No fewer than 227 steps": Underestimated. The author's count is outdated. Due to modern cliff stabilization, path rebuilds, and repairs by the States of Guernsey, the official step count is over 270 steps (with some locals counting closer to 300 depending on where you start).
Moulin Huet: Only those who enjoy a walk are advised to visit Moulin Huet which is approached by a narrow track which has to be taken in single file. It is not the best bathing beach, as there is only sand at low tide, but swimming— and diving—can be particularly good in the numerous gullies here. Getting to Moulin Huet involves walking — along Water Lane before actually joining the path to the sea. This is extremely pretty and half-way along it there is an old fountain called the ‘“Wishing Well”. If you seek good luck put your foot over the water and wish! There is a beach kiosk at Moulin Huet with chairs spread out on the cliff-side.
Saints Bay: One more of Guernsey’s secluded coves which has a shingle beach (except at low tide when a little sand is exposed) and presents every facility for enjoyable bathing. Approached by a long winding lane, the bay has its own small pier which is used by local fishermen. This also serves as a diving stage and an ideal point for a man after a day’s fishing to settle down. Deck chairs and floats can be hired and there is a restaurant for soft drinks and snacks. In the past the bay has been a busy harbour, and in fact there is a stone monument commemorating this fact lying in the sea! Originally it stood by the harbour but as it got in the way of their gun sights, the Germans uprooted it and deposited it into the bay during the Occupation. Another point of interest is the well in La Ruette du Navet which is credited with having the power to cure eczema.
The Café/Restaurant: The text mentions a restaurant for soft drinks and snacks. Today, this is primarily known as the highly popular Saints Bay Kiosk located right at the top of the slipway. It serves homemade food, coffee, tea, and quick bites.

