The Jersey Kitchen - Part 3

This is the final part of the booklet on the Jersey Kitchen of 1932. It mentions black butter. That's still made today, and when there is an open day at the Elms, often around a winter weekend, you can go and see it being made and buy some. It is excellent when spread on bread with whipped cream generously layered on top! I've also been to evening sessions of black butter making, although my abiding memory of one of those was a very draughty barn, and some wiring that kept shorting out and causing the bare light bulbs to flicker, not something that would be the case today, I'm sure! But it explains why everyone wanted to huddle round the fire and stir the black butter on a cold winter night!

Black butter originates from a time when cider was a popular drink, and much of Jersey was taken up with cider orchards; the excess glut of apples being turned to black butter, which is a kind of jam. Unfortunately, beer took over in popularity in the UK, and the thriving export market in cider fell away.

La Mare Vineyards also produces their own black butter, but using mechanical aids to stir the butter rather than the traditional way by hand and only with only a five-hour stirring period rather than continuously for 24 to 30 hours. Their product has, however, won awards, although personally I have found that the cinnamon they add tends to swamp the more subtle flavours; the traditional black butter by contrast has a rich fruity flavour.

Traditional Black Butter Recipe (BBC website)

Ingredients

10 gallons cider
700 lb sweet apples, peeled and cut
20 lb sugar
3 sticks liquorice, finely chopped
24 lemons, sliced
3 lb allspice

Method

Boil the cider until it turns to jelly. Add the apples, stirring all the time to prevent sticking. Two hours after the last batch of apples has been stirred in, add the sugar, liquorice and lemons. In the last ten minutes of cooking add the spice. Store in jars.

But the making of black butter from surplus apples was not just confined to Jersey but was more widespread in England as well, with the same ingredients, although the method of production might vary. Jane Austen mentions black butter in a letter to her sister, dated December 27, 1808:

The first pot [of black butter] was opened when Frank and Mary were here, and proved not at all what it ought to be; it was neither solid nor entirely sweet, and on seeing it Eliza remembered that Miss Austen had said she did not think it had been boiled enough. It was made, you know, when we were absent. Such being the event of the first pot, I would not save the second, and we therefore ate it in unpretending privacy; and though not what it ought to be, part of it was very good." (2)

What would Mr Darcy have thought of "unpretending privacy", one wonders?

Black butter crossed the Atlantic, where it was mistakenly observed and thought to be an American specialty:

Cassell's Dictionary of Cookery (1870's) actually calls it "American", reflecting its popularity in the former colony, and the ignorance of the editors in respect of its history. Like pumpkin pie, it crossed the Atlantic, and then acted as if it had been born there.(3)

THE JERSEY KITCHEN - Part 3

During the winter evenings " black butter "  (niè'r  beurre) was made. This is an excellent apple preserve, so named on account of its colour when cooked. Barrels of sweet apples were peeled and sliced and placed in large earthen jars (tèrrines) several days before by the women folk ; a party of men arrived in the evening to cook the " butter ". The contents of the terrines were emptied into a large brass preserving pan, called la paîle, resting on a trivet (trepid) over a wood fire. Then sliced lemons and spice was added and in some cases liquorice to darken it. The contents were continuously stirred for from 26 to 28 hours, by the men working in relays by means of a long-handled wooden rake (un moueux) and the rest of the company spent the time in merrymaking. This was called a Séthéé d'nièr beurre, (" black butter night ").

The Jersey sunbonnet, as seen on the model, was largely worn by the women, some parishes having different styles with frills, etc. These were worn to come to Town to sell the produce and also when working on the farms.Cider was the chief beverage in the past; each farm had its orchard and large farms made their own cider. The apples were crushed in a circular trough (le tou) with a huge stone wheel (la meule) turned by a horse. The pulp (le mar) was then spread in large pieces of sacking and placed between layers of wheat straw in the press (le preinseu) which squeezed the cider out of the pulp into large wooden tubs (tchues). At one time much cider was exported.

Each householder had to look after the Roads of his Parish, and spend six days a year in repairing them ; those with horses had to lend a horse and cart. Defaulters were fined a shilling a day.

All the male population had to serve in the Royal Militia of the Island. This service originated in the old feudal service and was reorganized by the British Government from time to time. All these honorary services are being gradually discontinued and replaced by paid services.

In the Bedroom alongside the Kitchen may be seen on the four poster Bed (la couochette) a very fine counterpane or quilt (couvèrtuthe pitchie) with a printed design ' The Tree of Life ' (I'Arbre d'vie).

The hanging-closet door in the Bedroom (le vitchet or armouaithe dé pathai) was taken from an old house. It is typical Jersey work of the 17th century.

La pouchette or la paûte was an ancient place for hiding money and valuables. It was close to the fireplace, and consists of a long pipe ending in an earthenware jar, built into the thickness of the wall, the whole being
the full length of a man's arm.

During the German Occupation of the Island the valuable gold torque belonging to the Museum was successfully hidden by the Officials in la Paûte of the Kitchen.

Links
(1) http://www.bbc.co.uk/jersey/about_jersey/food/recipes/black_butter.shtml
(2) http://janeaustensworld.wordpress.com/2009/12/12/black-butter-a-christmas-recipe-popular-in-jane-austens-day/
(3) http://www.theoldfoodie.com/2005/12/young-woman-in-possession-of-good.html

Other references
http://www.slowfood.org.uk/jersey-black-butter
http://www.christmasarchives.com/black_butter.html
Book: Jane Austen and food, Maggie Lane, 1995

The Jersey Kitchen - Part 2

In an earlier post, I recalled the "Jersey Kitchen" mentioned in the Guide book of 1932, and how I still remembered it in the 1970s. With the construction of the new Museum, it was sadly lost, and this is the second part of a guide book, written by Ralph Mollett for the Museum, in 1957, which describes its features, and gives the Jerriais name for each.

Jersey Wonders are still baked on a regular basis, and can be found, hot and ready to eat, at the Cider Festival at Hamptonne Farm Museum in October, and at the two Steam Fayres at the Steam Museum, one around Liberation Day, and the other around September. Both events are well worth a visit

There is not only cider from Jersey orchard apples (quite different from English varieties) at Hamptonne, but also you can see the crushing process at work, and the horse tugging the large granite wheel around the cider crusher; there is traditional music, and Morris dancing, bags of hot fresh chestnuts for sale, and a real ale tent, as well as walks through the water meadow, and the sensory garden.

At the Steam Fayres, there are two steam trains running, one large engine with restored Victorian carriages, and a smaller one around the inner track, as well as lots of vintage cars to see, steam engines at work, music, and land rover trials around an extremely bumpy pitted track. In the Autumn, there has sometimes also been a threshing machine in operation.

Not surprisingly, as someone who likes puns, my book which dips into the history and legends of the Channel Island is also called "Jersey Wonders"!

http://www.lulu.com/content/4771751

It is a tradition to serve Conger soup as part of the Lent Lunch on Good Friday at St Brelade's Parish Hall, along with cheese and bread and a cup of tea. I always try to get there, because it is a delicious soup, and a once a year opportunity - not being much of a cook myself!

After the Jersey Kitchen, part 2, I give two recipes for Conger Soup (from the Channel Islands Forum), if you want to try your hand. One is an 1870 recipe, and the other is a simpler recipe from 1939. There is also a recipe from the BBC site for baking Jersey Wonders.

Regarding gathering seaweed for manure (wraic), I still remember the lorries coming down the far end of St Brelade's Bay to gather up the seaweed, but if they come now, there must be far fewer of them, for I have not seen them now for many years.

THE JERSEY KITCHEN - Part 2

A dried codfish ("mouothue") hangs from the ceiling, reminding us of the days when Jersey took a very active part in the Newfoundland Cod Fisheries ; large quantities of dried cod were brought to the Island for home consumption and for export to Mediterranean Countries.

In the wall there is a so-called " bénitier " ("bénêtchi") ; this one was found in an old house now demolished. A number of them are still to be found in old houses of the early seventeenth century ; the use of these ornamental recesses is doubtful.

The lanthorns ("les lanternes à corne") are genuine old specimens fitted with horn windows instead of glass.

The crockery and pewter-ware are from old Jersey Kitchens (la vaisselle et l'êtain).

The wool-winder (dêvidouaithe) and the spinning wheel (rouet) were in constant use all over the Island, when the inhabitants were employed in knitting stockings and jerseys, the latter taking their name from the Island. Large quantities of these were exported during the 17th and 18th centuries. The box-like settee (veille or filyie) formed a seat for the knitters ; and during the long evenings with an oil lamp overhead the matrons gathered together, and knitted, and many old tales about witchcraft and fairies were no doubt told in the ancient Jersey language.

The Jersey method of knitting (ouvrer) is different from either the English or French way.

Ploughing (à la grand' tchéthue), (the big plough) was held in Jersey in January and February. The farmers would combine and plough their lands with ploughs cutting deep furrows, using teams of at least 6 to 8 horses. During the morning a lunch was provided in the field, generally consisting of large dough cakes (gâche dé pâte, à corînthe) and a generous allowance of cider or coffee. At midday the farmer on whose land the team was working gave all his helpers a good meal, and the evening was spent in festivities.

The vraic (sea weed) harvest was a day's outing. Vraic is a splendid manure, and was also used for fuel when dried. The party went with their horses and carts (hèrnais) which were without springs, and drove to the beaches down the stone slipways specially made for the purpose.After gathering the vraic they returned home with carts heavily loaded, the party returning on foot after a strenuous day's work. Special buns were made and eaten on the beaches called galettes à vrai. These vraic buns containeda plentiful supply of raisins.

At Easter-tide cakes boiled in lard called des mèrvelles (anglicised to "Jersey Wonders ) were made, also a sort of biscuit called " simnel " (simné). On Good Friday a dish of flour and eggs boiled in milk called fliottes was eaten.

Bourdelots, apples covered in dough and pâte à soiyi, a kind of apple layer-cake, were largely baked In the ovens during the Autumn and the Winter.

Conger Soup (la Soupe d'andgulle) is still a local dish; the head and tail of the conger are boiled, then milk, butter, vegetables and herbs are added to make the Soupe, with petals of marigolds floating on the surface.

At spring tides the Ormer is caught and is a good food when properly cooked.

Gâche à crétons was a "cake" made with the residue from melted pig's fat (crétons), known as cracklings or graves, and apples, mixed in dough.

Recipes:

1870 D'la Soupe D'angulle
Jersey Conger Soupe

Recipe: CalculatorJersey.

INGREDIENTS:

1 and 1/2lb Conger,
3 Pt's water,
1 heart of cabbage chopped,
2 leeks,
petals of a marigold or two,
1 quart of milk,
1 oz of jersey butter,

METHOD:

Fresh Conger boil in 3pts of water approx one and half hours strain and keep the liquid, remove fish from the bone.
Return to the pot with the chopped cabbage and leeks, bring to the boil over slow heat.
Add parsley seasoning to taste add quart of milk and 1oz of jersey Butter.
To serve sprinkle with marigold petals.
Finally serve with fresh Jersey cabbage loaf and churned Jersey butter.

1939 D'la Soupe De Congre.
During The Occupation Of Jersey By The Germans.

Recipe: CalculatorJersey.

1 lb of conger,( on the head )
1 lb tomatoes, ( skinned )
1 onion,( chopped )
8 oz peas,
1 small cabbage, ( chopped )
2 Pt's of milk,
salt and fresh milled pepper,
1 bouquet garni,
marigold petals,
1 oz of jersey butter,

METHOD:

Wash the conger head well in plenty of water.
Place in a pan cover with cold water and boil for one and a half hours.( A pressure cooker is useful for this.)
Drain and reserve the liquid.
Take fish of the bone and add with the prepared vegetables the herbs also the fish to one and a half pints of the fish stock season to taste and simmer gently for 20 minutes.
Take out the bouquet garni, then ladle 3 large cupfuls of fish into a sieve or liquidizer.
Reduce this amount to a puree then return to the pan.
This thickens the soup and there is no need to add flour.
Add milk, butter, and bring to the boil very slow and simmer.
Serve very hot.
Serves four people.
Serve with the Marigold petals on the top.
Best with Jersey cabbage loaf and fresh churned Jersey Butter.

Jersey Wonders
This recipe makes around 40 wonders

INGREDIENTS
1 ½ Ib self-raising flour
4 oz butter
8 oz caster sugar
6 eggs

METHOD

Sieve flour and sugar and rub in butter, chopped into small pieces. Add whisked eggs to make a light dough.

With floured hands make the dough into golf ball sized shapes. Place these on a lightly floured tray and cover with a damp cloth for two hours.

Then roll out each of the balls into oblongs two inches x four inches.

With a sharp knife slit the centre of each oblong and twist the top end (of the oblong) through the slit.

Drop four to six Wonders at a time into a large pan of hot oil, cook for 2 minutes on each side until golden brown.

Drain on kitchen paper.


Links
http://www.channelislandsforum.co.uk/restaurants/604-old-jersey-recipes.htm
http://www.bbc.co.uk/jersey/about_jersey/food/recipes/jersey_wonders.shtml

The Jersey Kitchen - Part 1

In an earlier post, I recalled the "Jersey Kitchen" mentioned in the Guide book of 1932, and how I still remembered it in the 1970s. With the construction of the new Museum, it was sadly lost, and this is the first part of a guide book, written by Ralph Mollett for the Museum, in 1957, which describes its features, and gives the Jerriais name for each.

I remember Ralph Mollett's name with affection, because there was a "Ralph Mollett Prize for Local History" at school, and my history teacher Stephen Lucas persuaded me to enter a project I had done on the neolithic sites, with maps and photos I had taken, for the prize, along with text typed up - my typing skills weren't bad, my handwriting, as now was like a drunken spider.

Of course, the prize had in fact been moribund for many, many years, and I was the only contender! But it was still nice to get something (a book token, I recall) for my passion for local history, which I still have, and it ignited the interest of other friends of mine, who also produced some good work on local history.

Here is the first part....

THE JERSEY KITCHEN - Part 1

In 1931 the Societe Jersiaise decided to construct a reproduction of an old time Jersey Kitchen, to preserve a record for future generations of the conditions under which their forefathers lived and the furniture and utensils they used.

The Steps leading up to the doorway were removed from an original entrance ; and the dog's kennel ("câniche à tchian") under them has been copied from one still in existence.

The lintel ("le capé") over the entrance was removed from an old house at Beaumont the initials cut in it being "N.H." and the date 1651.

The wooden door is called "l'us et le contre-us", the "contre-us" being the small 10-inch side-piece, which is only .opened when furniture or extra-large articles are taken in.

The two flaps are known as "deux battants" and the little glass peephole is called "le dget." When the lower flap is shut, it keeps the children indoors and the animals out.

The Halberd at the entrance was used by householders who owed "service de garde", an old feudal service due from about 150 houses on the King's Fiefs in the Parishes of Saint Martin, Saint Saviour and Grouville. The Halberdiers had to attend the opening of the Land Court (Assise d'Heritage) twice a year, as well as trials, executions, and other public-punishments.

Attention is directed to the old oak Door leading into the Kitchen (1603). It contains no less than twelve panels of most attractive design. It is hung on pintles, not hinges.

Close to this door in the passage is a Sampler ("un canevas"). Samplers containing the alphabet, the numerals, and mottoes with various decorative devices had to be worked and finished by every young girl before 9 years old, a practice found useful later when marking linen and' clothing with the owner's initials.

The Fireplaces ("les acres") in both Kitchen and Bedroom have come from Don Farm, St. John. The Kitchen fireplace bears a shield with the initials "N.R.", and S.P.D., and the date 1673. An old style beehive oven ("un fou") has been constructed in the wall at the back of the fireplace.

The opening of the oven is closed with a hard wooden door ("l'étoupon") and was sealed with fresh cowdung.

The iron swinging bracket ("la cranne") with its adjustable hangers ("les cros" or "les crémilliéthes") for supporting the pot ("la chaudgièthe") or kettle ("le ticlye") over the fire is an interesting feature in these old open fireplaces.

The tripod ("le trepid") which, by way of paradox, is usually found with four legs, is used for supporting the cooking utensils.

Owing to lack of space we were unable to erect "la côniéthe", a cupboard for the fuel consisting of firewood and dried "vraic" (seaweed).

Most cooking was done by boiling.

The stone niches alongside the fireplaces, known as "les bouonnelles" or "bouonnaises", were used to hold lamps, tinderboxes, food, and other articles requiring dry storage. In some cases the niches have doors of wood.

The bread rack ("le râclyi") is an original removed from a farm house.

The cresset lamp -("le cresset") consists of two parts ; the inner cup held the oil and the wick ; the lower tray caught the drippings which must have been considerable. The lamp hung from a "valet" or "villain", which by a series of notches permitted the lamp to be raised or lowered as required.

A bottle barometer may be seen on the mantle-shelf, also an hour glass.

The glass rollers were brought to the Island by sailors ; their origin is unknown, but they were used to roll out pastry and as ornaments.

A long metal box may be seen on the wall ; this was used to contain tallow candles ; also a hand churn ("selle à tuthet") and wooden bowls ("des bolles à beurre") to work the butter into shape.

A tinder box ("tondre-box") containing flint ("pierre à 'feu) and steel ("le fiêset") and tinder ("tondre") for making a light was used instead of matches in those days.