Guernsey in 1974 – Part 6

Guernsey in 1974 – Part 6

This is an extract from Peter Haining’s guide book of 1974, which is as much interest today for the historian as to the tourist, as many of the places and industries described in his book have long vanished. Please do not take it as a current guide. Modern day differences are also given in italics.

Bays for bathing – Part 2

Petit Bot: A very popular and picturesque beach which has two beautiful, wooded valleys converging almost on its beach. There are three actual roads to the shore which provide a variety of views, but for those in a hurry there is a Mini-bus service from the main bus route. The beach is pebbly at full tide, but as this recedes sandy areas are revealed. Bathing is excellent. The main “‘sight”’ in the area is on the Route de la Fallaise—an old farmhouse whose occupiers had the job of keeping watch for the approach of pirates. On the shore is a tearoom, the Old Mill and floats and deck chairs for hire. For the explorer there is the unusually shaped cavern known as “Dog Cave”.

Today, standard vehicular access is essentially via narrow, winding lanes descending into the valley. To manage traffic in the summer, the main descent route operates on a strict one-way system. Furthermore, there is no dedicated mini-bus service to the shore. Visitors using public transit must take standard Guernsey bus routes (such as routes 91, 92, 93, 94, or 95), exit at the main road stop at La Bourg or near the Forest Stores, and walk approximately 1.5 km down the steep hill to the beach.

The Petit Bôt Tea Room still operates right by the slipway and serves as a popular stop for drinks, ice cream, and light lunches. It occupies a building with deep historic roots as a former mill (remnants of the old stream and waterwheel structure can still be seen nearby). However, commercial hires for beach floats and deck chairs are no longer standard operational facilities on the shore; modern visitors generally bring their own gear or rent paddleboards/kayaks during peak summer operations.

Portelet: This is a typical fisherman’s harbour, but it also has a stretch of sand which provides good bathing for all including the very young. The rocks in the cove are ideal for the pool fisherman. The harbour itself is not very old and has never been much used except by a few small boats and by seamen seeking that Channel Island delicacy, the ormer. The Hanois Lighthouse on Petit Hanois is just round the coast from Portelet and when erected in 1862 prevented many ships from going to their doom—as they had in the past—on the treacherous rocks around Pleinmont Point. Among those who praised the building of the lighthouse was Victor Hugo who mentions it at some length in Toilers of the Sea.

This is completely true. During his 15-year exile on Guernsey, Victor Hugo was a passionate campaigner for social and maritime safety. He publicly advocated for the construction of Les Hanois Lighthouse to stop the frequent shipwrecks. He heavily featured the lighthouse, Pleinmont, and the treacherous reefs in his 1866 novel Toilers of the Sea (Les Travailleurs de la mer), even using the Hanois rocks as a focal setting for a deliberate shipwreck plot point in the book.

Rocquaine Bay: A wide sweep of bay liberally scattered with rocks which make bathing only really safe when the tide is in. The road runs along the shore and there are many suitable spots for parking and numerous cafes. Because much of the land is low-lying, dykes have been built and during the winter months these take a tremendous pounding from the westerly gales. Just off Les Paysans Road there is an interesting 12-foot-high pillar of granite called la Longue Roque. It is in fact and ancient menhir and there is a legend that it is frequented by fairies. Until quite recently, the local people burned a Guy at its base every November 5th. Witchcraft is also associated with the bay, and the centre for this was the white tower of Fort Grey which stands on its own lonely promontory. The area is also dotted with gun sites built by the Germans during their occupation.

Guernsey in 1974 – Part 5

Guernsey in 1974 – Part 5

This is an extract from Peter Haining’s guide book of 1974, which is as much interest today for the historian as to the tourist, as many of the places and industries described in his book have long vanished. Please do not take it as a current guide.

Bays for bathing – Part 1

Havelet Bay: Havelet adjoins the harbour at St. Peter Port and has the nearest beach to the town—but this, unfortunately, is inaccessible at high tide. The main attraction, however, is the extensive La Vallette Swimming Pool which provides good bathing whatever the state of the tide along the coast. The pool—it is actually three separate pools— protrudes into the sea and this makes the setting doubly attractive. Water polo is also played here. Havelet Bay is ideal for water-skiing and this takes place daily throughout the season. It is also considered a good starting point for hikers along the south coast, and the best route begins at the south end of the bay by the Halfmoon Restaurant— where, incidentally, all manner of information about walking in Guernsey can be obtained. Also in the bay, and not far from La Vallette Swimming Pool, are two smaller pools which are open daily.

The "Halfmoon Restaurant": This no longer exists. The venue at the south end of the bay near the slipway is now home to the Octopus Restaurant (though travellers should note it is temporarily undergoing refurbishment). While Havelet Bay remains a popular destination for local sea swimmers, kayakers, and paddleboarders, daily scheduled water-skiing and regular water polo matches are no longer the primary active attractions advertised for the bay.

Soldier’s Bay: A secluded little nook, reached by a path from Havelet Bay, the shore is pebbly, but bathing in the deep, clear water is a joy to swimmer and non-swimmer alike. The rocks, which jut into the sea are excellent as diving points. ““Soldier’s Bay” earned its name because it was for generations used by the soldiers stationed at what was once Fort George on the cliff top. The fort was built in 1780, but it was not until the German Occupation that it was actually called upon to serve its purpose. However, the shelling which it received from British aircraft in 1944 was so heavy and so costly in human life that it was evacuated immediately afterwards.

"Bathing... is a joy to swimmer and non-swimmer alike": This is no longer true. Following severe coastal subsidence and highly unstable cliff faces above the cove, the States of Guernsey officially closed Soldier's Bay to the public via footpaths. Landslides and rockfalls make accessing it by foot illegal or physically barricaded.

"It was not until the German Occupation that it was actually called upon to serve its purpose": Historically false. Fort George served actively as a major British military hub for generations long before World War II. For instance, the Royal Guernsey Light Infantry trained heavily at the fort before deploying to the Western Front in 1917 during World War I.

The attacks in June 1944 were targeted Allied air raids specifically designed to destroy the sophisticated Adlerschloss German Luftwaffe radar early warning system built at the fort. The text claims the fort was "evacuated immediately afterwards" due to heavy losses. In reality, the Allied air raids before D-Day were largely ineffective against the heavily fortified structures, and German forces did not evacuate; they successfully held the fort and the rest of Guernsey until the official German surrender on Liberation Day, 9 May 1945.

As of 2026, even if approached by sea, there have been temporary water quality warnings in the bay due to a damaged deep-sea sewage outfall pipe originating from the modern residential development atop Fort George.

Fermain Bay: Undoubtedly one of the most popular bays on the island and always much frequented by families. A boat service runs between here and St. Peter Port which provides some splendid coastal views. There is a pebbly foreshore which gives way to white sand at half tide. The walk to the bay is long, but pleasant, winding through wooded countryside. The half-way mark is Le Chalet Hotel which was the first dwelling on Guernsey to have electric lighting at the beginning of this century. Then it was a private house belonging to a skilled mechanic who harnessed a dynamo to a stream which runs down the valley. Although the bay is now a haven for small boats, it was once considered the ideal place for a raiding party to land. In the 18th Century, for instance, a press gang landed at Fermain, crept inland and made off with several unwilling recruits. There are still one or two German fortifications visible including a white-washed sentry box which now serves as a ship marker and is generally called “The Pepper Pot’. The bay has its own restaurant and toilets, and floats can be hired. Bathing is safe except at high tide when the bank of pebbles make it unsafe for those not experienced. A final interesting point about Fermain is that in the early 1900’s the bay was segregated— women had to go at one end and men at the other. Needless to say this ruling is no longer enforced.

"A boat service runs between here and St. Peter Port": This is completely outdated. While a legendary water-taxi and boat service ran between the St. Peter Port harbour and Fermain Bay for decades, the regular service officially ceased in 1993 when its long-time operator retired. Today, the bay is only reachable by private vessel or on foot.  Commercial float and deckchair hire is no longer a standard daily fixture on the beach; visitors generally need to bring their own paddleboards or swim gear.

Le Chalet Hotel: The story regarding the skilled mechanic using a stream dynamo to create Guernsey's first electrically lit private home is a fascinating piece of local history, but Le Chalet Hotel is permanently closed and derelict. It closed its doors as a commercial hotel years ago, and recent developments have focused on converting the site into residential accommodation.

Petit Port: This bay can justifiably boast the finest stretch of sand on Guernsey and coupled with the magnificent cliff scenery and good bathing make it a popular spot (it is also possible to surf here). Unfortunately there is one snag which may deter older people from visiting the bay— there is a long, steep climb down into the bay with no fewer than 227 steps (I counted them) let into the cliff face. There is a secondary approach to the bay, but though gentler is very much longer and not without danger. Not far from the top of the cliff is Mont Durand where silver was discovered in the 19th Century and an attempt was made to mine it commercially. This was a disastrous failure and today there is little left to serve as a memorial to the project. It was at Petit Port on July 14, 1940, that 
a commando raid under the direction of LieutenantColonel Durnford Slater landed and scoured the area for information about the Occupation. Today the exploits are still discussed, and elaborated on, by the local people. The area also has some interesting rock formations including the circular mass of granite called “Cannon Rock”’.

"No fewer than 227 steps": Underestimated. The author's count is outdated. Due to modern cliff stabilization, path rebuilds, and repairs by the States of Guernsey, the official step count is over 270 steps (with some locals counting closer to 300 depending on where you start).

Secondary Approach Danger: The "gentler but dangerous" alternative path mentioned is completely closed off due to severe, ongoing coastal erosion and cliff landslides. The steps are now the only legal and physically viable way to access the beach by land.

"It is also possible to surf here": Highly misleading. Petit Port is an extremely sheltered, enclosed cove on the south-east corner of the island. It rarely gets a surfable wave breakdown. Guernsey's actual surf scene is explicitly located on the west coast at beaches like Vazon Bay.

Moulin Huet: Only those who enjoy a walk are advised to visit Moulin Huet which is approached by a narrow track which has to be taken in single file. It is not the best bathing beach, as there is only sand at low tide, but swimming— and diving—can be particularly good in the numerous gullies here. Getting to Moulin Huet involves walking — along Water Lane before actually joining the path to the sea. This is extremely pretty and half-way along it there is an old fountain called the ‘“Wishing Well”. If you seek good luck put your foot over the water and wish! There is a beach kiosk at Moulin Huet with chairs spread out on the cliff-side.

Single File Access Track: While the footpath gets narrow, it is wide enough for two people to pass comfortably in most sections, though oncoming foot traffic does have to step aside in the tighter, steeper bends

"Beach Kiosk... with chairs spread out on the cliff-side": Outdated. While a traditional, basic beach kiosk operated at the valley base for decades, the site has been completely transformed into the bohemian Renoir Tea Garden. Instead of just chairs scattered loosely on the cliff-side, there is a beautifully terraced, intimate garden café featuring modern outdoor seating booths and wooden decking overlooking the spectacular bay views.

Saints Bay: One more of Guernsey’s secluded coves which has a shingle beach (except at low tide when a little sand is exposed) and presents every facility for enjoyable bathing. Approached by a long winding lane, the bay has its own small pier which is used by local fishermen. This also serves as a diving stage and an ideal point for a man after a day’s fishing to settle down. Deck chairs and floats can be hired and there is a restaurant for soft drinks and snacks. In the past the bay has been a busy harbour, and in fact there is a stone monument commemorating this fact lying in the sea! Originally it stood by the harbour but as it got in the way of their gun sights, the Germans uprooted it and deposited it into the bay during the Occupation. Another point of interest is the well in La Ruette du Navet which is credited with having the power to cure eczema.

The Café/Restaurant: The text mentions a restaurant for soft drinks and snacks. Today, this is primarily known as the highly popular Saints Bay Kiosk located right at the top of the slipway. It serves homemade food, coffee, tea, and quick bites.

Hiring Deck Chairs/Floats: While standard in classic mid-20th-century tourist guides, current regular services emphasize kayak or equipment hire depending on the seasonal operators rather than traditional deckchair stands.

The 18th-century structure guarding the bay is officially known as Saints Tower No.14. Often mistakenly called a Martello tower, it is actually a distinct Guernsey Loophole Tower.

he tower was built between August 1778 and March 1779. At the outbreak of the American War of Independence, France joined forces with the Americans against Britain. Because the Channel Islands sit just off the French coast, they were in immediate danger of invasion.

In response, the British government constructed a chain of 15 identical loophole towers around Guernsey's coastline to act as a unified defensive shield

Guernsey in 1974 – Part 4

Guernsey in 1974 – Part 4

Guernsey in 1974 – Part 4

This is an extract from Peter Haining’s guide book of 1974, which is as much interest today for the historian as to the tourist, as many of the places and industries described in his book have long vanished. Please do not take it as a current guide. Italics are my notes on the situation today.

St. Sampson:

St. Sampson is the only other port apart from St. Peter Port on Guernsey. It has lost some of its importance in recent years with the slowing down in exports of granite, once a very large industry in the hinterland just behind the harbour. (Old granite quarries and mills are still visible there today.)

Despite this St. Sampson is worth visiting as it is now a centre for boat repairing and craft of all shapes and sizes can be seen in the dry docks. Coal, timber and oil are also delivered here.

 St. Sampson has transitioned from a gritty 19th-century granite-exporting and commercial cargo port into a modern residential and leisure boating hub. While old granite quarries are now utilized as freshwater storage reservoirs and the inner harbor has become a marina, traditional commercial operations like coal deliveries and dry dock repairs are largely outdated. You can read more about Guernsey's history and geography.

On the actual seashore is St. Sampson’s Church, the oldest on the island, which dates from the 12th Century. St. Sampson, an English monk, landed on the island in the 6th Century and built a tiny chapel which was later replaced by the present church. He is now regarded as the Patron Saint of Guernsey and has a feast day on July 28th. He is also credited with a number of miracles, including banishing all moles, toads and snakes from the island. (It is interesting to note that these types of creatures are still never found on Guernsey.)

Samson of Dol, a Celtic missionary monk traveling from Dunmonia in England and Brittany, landed on this exact spot around 550 AD and erected a primitive timber chapel or oratory, introducing Christianity to Guernsey. It is true that Guernsey has no native snakes or moles. However, this is due to post-glacial geography (the island separated from continental Europe earlier than neighbouring Jersey, preventing these slow-moving animals from colonizing the landmass), not a miracle.

There are several monuments to seamen in the harbour — all in French—and one of them (commemorating Daniel de Lisle Brock) is believed to have been a menhir. 

Daniel de Lisle Brock was one of Guernsey's most celebrated historic Bailiffs (serving from 1821 to 1842). Near the slipway at St. Sampson's Harbour, there is a large, upright granite pillar erected in his memory. Local antiquarians and modern archaeologists strongly believe this stone was originally a prehistoric megalithic menhir (standing stone) repurposed by the islanders.

A further strange memorial is to be found in St. Sampson’s Church, and it must surely be among the most unusual. The tablet reports the death of Thomas Falla, an 18-yearold Guernsey Lieutenant, who was killed in the Siege of Seringapatam in 1799. What killed him was a 26 lb. cannon ball which lodged itself between the two bones of one of his thighs—and went undiscovered by the surgeon who examined him! The explanation given later when the unfortunate man eventually died and a post-mortem was carried out, was that the hole made by the shot had become so inflamed that it had closed over, leaving the ball further hidden behind the thigh bones. A working knowledge of French is needed to read the tablet—but this does not prevent anyone from feeling horrified amazement at the incredible tale it tells.

The French-inscribed marble tablet is located exactly inside St. Sampson's Parish Church. Lieutenant Thomas Falla of the 12th Regiment of Foot was wounded on 6 April 1799 during the assault on Tipu Sultan’s stronghold in India. The guidebook's gruesome medical details are completely correct: a massive, heavy solid-iron shot did indeed pass deep into his thigh and wedge perfectly between his femur and surrounding structure. Because the entry wound was heavily swollen and inflamed, the military surgeon missed it during a physical examination.Falla tragically survived in agonizing pain for six hours after the injury before dying, at which point the military doctors extracted the ball during a post-mortem to the absolute shock of the regiment. The plaque remains a popular spot for dark-tourism enthusiasts visiting the church today.

Guernsey in 1974 – Part 3

Guernsey in 1974 – Part 3

This is an extract from Peter Haining’s guide book of 1974, which is as much interest today for the historian as to the tourist, as many of the places and industries described in his book have long vanished. Please do not take it as a current guide.

St. Peter Port

St. Peter Port is said by many people to be the most attractive harbour in the Channel Islands. The town nestles on a hillside overlooking the multi-coloured array of ships and boats of all sizes, and has an old world atmosphere which is quite unique. The streets are narrow and wind between tier upon tier of old houses—some of which have remained unchanged for centuries.

 

The early history of the port is none too clear, but it is known that by the 14th Century it was a bustling market town safeguarded against attack. The market was built in 1780 and soon became the centre of business affairs. Here the islanders bought and sold fish, meat, flowers, fruit and vegetables. In succeeding years the market was added to and the various States Buildings erected.

 In the early 2000s, the historic Town Market Buildings underwent a massive redevelopment. Instead of independent Victorian butchers and fishermen hawking raw goods, the imposing granite arches now house a modern supermarket (underneath the original fish-scale roof tiles), high-street retailers, the Guille-Allès Library, and a bustling public courtyard

Not far from the market is the Guille-Alles Library which was created by two Guernseymen with an urge to make their fellow countrymen read. Their task in the early years was anything but easy, and it was not until 1886 that the library as it is seen today took shape. The library is worth visiting both for its extensive range of volumes (which can be borrowed by visitors on payment of a subscription) and the record it contains of the German Occupation of Guernsey. Open daily (except Sunday) 9.10 a.m. to 12.45 p.m. and 1.45 p.m. to 5 p.m.

The library ran as a paid subscription service for nearly a century. However, in 1981, following severe financial difficulties, the States of Guernsey partnered with the Guille-Allès Trust to make the library completely free for the public.  Tourists no longer pay a "subscription". Instead, holidaymakers can sign up for a temporary Visitor Card by providing a fully returnable £15 deposit. The archaic lunch hour closure was abolished decades ago. The modern opening times are seamlessly continuous, featuring late-night access.

Guernsey has another library, named after its donor. Osmond Priaulx, in Candie Road, which has a very comprehensive reference library and a huge collection of rare books and fascinating old documents about the island. It is open to the public daily from 10.30 a.m. to 1 p.m. and 2 p.m. to 4.30 p.m. Across the road from the Priaulx is Candie Gardens which is a riot of coloured flowers during the season and also boasts a lemon tree which regularly produces fruit. 

In the vicinity is the Victoria Tower, a tall, medieval-looking turret, which stands on the site of an old windmill. It was built in 1846 to commemorate the visit of Queen Victoria and a climb to the top presents the visitor with one of the finest views of the harbour and coastline. The key to gain entry to the tower may be obtained from the Fire Station opposite.

The Priaulx Library and Candie Gardens details remain largely accurate, though opening hours have been extended to 9:30 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. on weekdays. While Victoria Tower commemorates Queen Victoria's 1846 visit, the key to access the interior is now obtained from the Guernsey Museum at Candie rather than the nearby Fire Station.

Turning back towards the harbour, it is not too long a walk to the Parish Church and the Lukis and Island Museum. The Parish Church is generally agreed to be one of the finest ecclesiastical buildings in the Channel Islands. There is believed to have been a wooden church on the "site since at least 1048, but it seems that the present stone building did not begin to take shape until about the 12th Century. It is well worth paying a visit.

Formally known as Sancti Petri de Portu, the very first historical record of the Town Church dates to 1048 when William of Normandy granted it to the Abbot of Marmoutier. The core stone architecture began taking its current shape in the 12th century.

The Lukis and Island Museum on Tower Hill is arranged in the house of the man who was mainly responsible for its formation, Captain Lukis. The majority of the exhibits are relics from the tumuli and dolmens which have been excavated on Guernsey. For those who have spent time looking at the island’s numerous prehistoric remains, this collection should come as the finale. It is open daily (except Sundays and Wednesdays) from 10.30 a.m. to 1 p.m. and 2 p.m. to 4 p.m.

The museum on Tower Hill no longer exists. In 1978, the States of Guernsey opened the purpose-built Guernsey Museum & Art Gallery inside Candie Gardens. The entire Lukis collection of prehistoric stone tools, ancient pottery, and dolmen artifacts was moved there, where it serves as the crown jewel of the island's permanent archaeology exhibits today.

The former home of the museum at St. Barnabas Church now houses the official Island Archives, which preserves historical documents and public records for the Bailiwick. 

The Royal Court House is another building with historical association which is often missed by the visitor because of its situation on the heights above the town. Originally built in 1799, the building serves as police court, office of Le Greffe (records department where ancient and modern documents about the island are kept) and assembly room for the States’ meetings. These gatherings are open to the general public and presided over by the Bailiff, Mr. J. H. Loveridges who combines the function of Prime Minister and Mr. Speaker. Also in attendance are the 12 conseillers, the 33 deputies, the douzaine (or parish council) representatives, the Island clergy, and the Crown Officers. The Magistrate’s court sits every Monday, Wednesday and Friday in the mornings and can be attended by the public.

Following a historic public referendum, Guernsey entirely dismantled its traditional parish-based electoral districts. The modern parliamentary structure of the States of Deliberation comprises:38 People's Deputies: All 38 are elected from one single, island-wide constituency. Under this plurality-at-large system, every voter on the island's electoral roll receives up to 38 votes to cast across the entire pool of candidates. 2 Alderney Representatives: Chosen from the States of Alderney to represent their specific island interests. Presiding Officers & Law Officers: The Bailiff (or Deputy Bailiff) presides over meetings, alongside His Majesty's Procureur and Comptroller (who have speaking rights but cannot vote). This completely eliminates the 1974 structure. There are no longer dedicated parish deputies or institutional seats reserved for the island clergy or douzaine (parish council) representatives in the primary legislative parliament.

Of all the sights in St. Peter Port, there is none to match Castle Cornet which sits splendidly in the harbour at the end of its causeway. Built in the early part of the 13th Century, it has been considerably reconstructed during its history, and for a time in the Middle Ages served as the seat of government of the Channel Islands when Jersey and Guernsey were administered together. It is crowded with history, and during the Occupation when it was used by the Germans, Hitler considered it one of his “prize” captures. There is a comprehensive museum in the castle which illustrates both the uses to which it was put and the men who commanded it. An easy way of telling whether the castle is open or not is to look for the Guernsey flag flying over the gateway. The actual hours are 10.30 a.m. to 12.30 p.m. and 2.30 p.m. to 6 p.m. on week days; and it is closed on Saturday afternoon but open on Sunday morning.

Castle Cornet in St. Peter Port features a rich history dating back to the 13th century and served as a heavily fortified stronghold during the German Occupation of World War II. Modern visitor access has been significantly updated, with the site now featuring five distinct museums and continuous daily operating hours from 10:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. during its seasonal opening period. You can read more about Castle Cornet on Visit Guernsey.

On The Esplanade at Picquet House is the headquarters of the Guernsey Railway Co. which run the island’s extremely efficient bus service (there is no railway, however!) Timetables and details of services can be obtained here, plus information about the numerous tours of Guernsey which the company operate (Central 78).

The claim that the Guernsey Railway Co. operates the island's bus service from Picquet House is historically accurate for a past era but entirely obsolete today. The modern transit network is coordinated via the States of Guernsey with current timetables and information available through official transport channels, while Picquet House has since transitioned out of use as a transport headquarters. For current timetable and travel information, visit States of Guernsey.

The harbour is a showpiece in itself, with a constant flow of boats in and out. Its history goes back many centuries, but the actual breakwaters and quays visible now were not begun until 1853. Today ships from England and the Continent dock here daily: some bringing tourists, others to collect the island produce of tomatoes and flowers. Pleasure trips to the other Channel Islands also use the area extensively, as do local fishermen and visiting yachtsmen.

An interesting reminder of the harbour’s past is contained in the name of a narrow road opposite the south-west corner, ““Rue des Vaches’’—‘*‘Cow Lane’’. It was here that cattle who had been brought over from France for slaughter were landed. The unfortunate animals could not be taken off on a quay so therefore they were pushed overboard from the ships and forced to swim to shore. Finally they were herded up the narrow lane to the abattoir.

Historical records confirm that the construction of the modern St. Peter Port artificial harbour officially began on August 24, 1853, following centuries of earlier maritime use. Accounts of cattle being pushed overboard from French vessels to swim ashore before being herded up Rue des Vaches (Cow Lane) to the local abattoir are also historically accurate. 

For the visitor interested in tracing the extent of the walls which once encircled St. Peter Port, there are six granite stones scattered about the town centre. Five of these are built into the sides of buildings and must be sought carefully—but the sixth, just outside the General Post Office in Smith Street, is clearly spotted by a brass plaque which reads: “This stone is one of the six stones erected by order of the Royal Court in 1700 to mark the sites of the gates of the town when in the XIV century, St. Peter Port was walled in for defensive purposes.”’ Together these stones provide an intriguing reminder of the past. )

While the historical physical artefacts are precisely where the author claims, the 14th-century "town wall" history is entirely a myth, and the landmark building mentioned has closed its doors. here are indeed exactly six carved granite stones placed around the town centre. They are officially known as the Barrières de la Ville (Town Barriers).  

Modern archaeology and Guernsey Museums research have comprehensively debunked the idea that St. Peter Port was ever a medieval walled city. While the Royal Court did secure a licence to build town defences in 1350, no evidence has ever been found to prove walls or large stone defensive gateways were actually built.

What are the stones actually for? The Royal Court ordered the placement of these stones in 1700 to mark the legal administrative boundaries (the tax and parish borders) of the town. Within these boundary lines, specific town laws applied regarding property division, vagrancy, and commerce.

The Brass Plaque and Location: The guidebook correctly notes that the sixth stone sits outside the General Post Office in Smith Street. It is carved with the words "Barrières de la Ville. 1700". But the iconic Smith Street Post Office permanently closed its doors after its multi-decade lease expired. Guernsey Post relocated its central town services down the hill to a modernized counter inside the Co-op store at the Market Buildings. While the building has changed uses, the historic boundary stone and its brass plaque remain embedded on the pavement outside for passing historical enthusiasts to find.

If you look for them today, you can find the stones integrated into the architecture at:

Smith Street (Outside the former Post Office)

The Pollet (Opposite Moore’s Hotel)

The Town Church (On the seaward side)

Cornet Street (At the top of the street near Tower Steps)

Fountain Street / Rosemary Lane (At the foot of the steps)

Guernsey in 1974 – Part 2

Guernsey in 1974 – Part 2

This is an extract from Peter Haining’s guide book of 1974, which is as much interest today for the historian as to the tourist, as many of the places and industries described in his book have long vanished. Please do not take it as a current guide. I have added changes in italics.

More of the Introduction

The island is a bustling place most of the time—Sunday being the exception as has been mentioned earlier—but it is still possible to “get away from it all’”’ walking through the pleasant valleys in the interior or on the more exposed (though definitely more bracing) northern commons. Trying to suggest routes for walks is an almost impossible task for Guernsey. The only answer is to go where you please—and because of the size of the island you will never be far from a bus stop (the island’s bus service is certainly one of the most regular, efficient and well organised in the British Isles) and in any case it is never very difficult to find the coast.

There are more activities being provided for the younger visitors to Guernsey—though the authorities are still very wary about allowing any entertainment that might attract “hippies and layabouts”’, to quote one State official. The gradual change of attitude may have come about because of a visit by The Beatles in 1964. The four Liverpool lads were impressed with the island but said not enough was being done for teenagers. Obviously any attempts to over-commercialise the island will be resisted, but the climate of change is growing. This is particularly noticeable through the number of folk and beat clubs springing up, plus the “‘pop” music boat trips and increased facilities for water ski-ing, surfing, underwater swimming and sports of all kinds.

 Incorrect Year. The Beatles actually played their historic Guernsey concerts on 8 August 1963. They performed two shows in a single night at the Candie Gardens Pavilion in St. Peter Port before returning to Jersey. They never returned to perform in 1964. However, the quote about their impression is highly consistent with 1960s British youth culture commentary.

 In the early 1970s, Guernsey's conservative government (the States of Guernsey) was deeply protective of its image as a respectable, family-friendly, upper-middle-class holiday resort. The influx of long-haired youth, "beatniks," and hitchhikers across Europe terrified local hoteliers and officials, who actively used local vagrancy and housing laws to discourage bohemian "layabouts" from loitering around St. Peter Port.

The late 1960s and 1970s saw a massive boom in Guernsey's youth-centric nightlife. Venues like The Savoy Hotel (hosting rock gigs) and the Fermain Tavern became legendary local hubs. This era also birthed Guernsey's modern surfing and scuba diving scenes along the west coast.

Today, rather than banning youth entertainment, Guernsey hosts major annual events like the Vale Earth Fair (the longest-running music festival in the Channel Islands) and SarkFest on the neighboring island, specifically designed to draw alternative crowds, artists, and live music fans.

Shopping facilities always play an important part on any female visitor’s agenda and Guernsey (St. Peter Port in particular) can boast some extremely good shops, stocking goods from the United Kingdom (most of them cheaper) and from the Continent (many of them unobtainable in Britain). Half day closing on the island is Thursday, by the way.

In 1974, Guernsey legally enforced "half-day closing" on Thursdays, shutting down St. Peter Port to give shop workers time off. Today, this practice is a thing of the past. High street retailers, local boutiques, and major supermarkets keep regular hours all week long, with many offering late-night shopping on Thursdays or opening on Sundays.

As far as traditional foods are concerned the only surviving morsel on Guernsey is the ‘‘Gache’’, a fruit cake which is still sold in certain small tea shops.

Guernsey Gâche (a rich fruit bread baked with raisins, sultanas, and mixed peel) was never limited to a few tea shops. Today, it is widely mass-produced, sold in every local supermarket, and heavily exported to tourists.

The island waters also produce a particularly large breed of crab which are served at many restaurants with local lobsters, crawfish and prawns as an alternative. Fish of all kinds are common, and even tropical species like the torpedo ray and sun fish find their way into the Channel Islands area. Small octopi are not unknown, either, and local fishermen can frequently be seen hunting for them in the rock pools at low tide. They may not be to everybody’s taste, but some Guernsey men and women consider them the finest of all sea foods!

Recently local commercial fishing fleets reported an unprecedented "octopus bloom". Warming sea temperatures caused a massive explosion of common octopuses in local waters.The Culinary War: Far from being a niche taste like in 1974, local chefs at Le Nautique and other island restaurants adapted their menus to showcase local octopus. This boom is actually a double-edged sword: the booming octopus population is so hungry that they are raiding local pots and eating the island's famous crabs and lobsters before fishermen can harvest them!

Finally, a word about going to live on Guernsey. Because of the demand for land and houses, the States of Guernsey have put into operation a system which safeguards a reasonable amount of priority for islanders. The Cadastre Office of the States judge the amenities of every house and then put a rateable value on it from £1 to £100. All properties with a figure of under £80 are then declared “‘for islanders only”. Anyone seeking a house, however, will find that Guernsey estate agents invariably advertise houses for sale whether or not they are open to mainland buyers. The average price of a house open to outsiders is around £20,000. If this sounds particularly high it should be measured against the amenities of the island which have already been mentioned. Further information about settling on the island can be obtained from the Tourist Office,

Guernsey's two-tier housing market, originally established by the 1974 Housing Control Law to prioritize islanders through rateable value thresholds, remains strictly enforced today. While a 1974 guidebook estimated open-market property prices at £20,000, modern valuations have surged significantly alongside updated population management and tax frameworks. 

Guernsey in 1974 – Part 1

Guernsey in 1974 – Part 1

This is an extract from Peter Haining’s guide book of 1974, which is as much interest today for the historian as to the tourist, as many of the places and industries described in his book have long vanished. Please do not take it as a current guide. I have taken time to annotate some of the changes in italics.

Introduction

Guernsey is sometimes referred to as the “Island of Greenhouses” —and certainly should you be flying to it the view from above is of acre upon acre of glass. The impression is not altogether correct, however, for only about one fifteenth of the island is devoted to greenhouses, and in the remainder are houses for the population of 50,000, some delightful wooded and rural areas, plus enough beaches, bays and attractions to keep the average visitor happy for weeks.

The description of Guernsey as an "Island of Greenhouses" is largely outdated due to the collapse of the island's commercial horticultural industry, leaving many structures derelict rather than actively cultivated. Additionally, Guernsey's population has increased from the historical estimate of 50,000 to approximately 64,600 residents today.

The island is the second largest of the Channel Island group and covers 24 square miles. It is seven miles long by three miles wide and has over 25 miles of coastline. The ancient name for Guernsey was Greneze, “Green Isle” and as the visitor makes use of the 300 miles of roadway he will soon see how true this is. 

The Claim: That the ancient name was Greneze, meaning "Green Isle." This is a persistent folk-etymology myth. The name "Guernsey" is actually of Old Norse (Viking) origin. The suffix -ey is the Viking word for "island" (seen also in Jersey and Alderney). While older medieval records used spellings like Gernesey or Gernezeye, the root Guern- is believed to stem from a Viking personal name like Grani, or the Old Norse word grǫn (meaning spruce or pine)—not "green". To the Romans, the island was known as Lisia or Sarnia.

The Bailiwick of Guernsey, which includes Alderney, Sark, Herm and Jethou, is a self-governing community and the people have a fierce spirit of independence. They make their own laws (some of which have a distinctly feudal severity about them), impose their own taxes and even mint their own currency. The island has its own Norman-French patios which, although not used a great deal today, can still be heard spoken in the outlying communities.

When this guide was written, this was a direct nod to Sark, which was famous for being the last feudal state in Europe. Sark was ruled by a Seigneur and a parliament (Chief Pleas) made up of hereditary landowners. However, in 2008, Sark officially abolished its 450-year-old feudal system and held its first fully democratic elections to comply with modern human rights laws. While ancient customary laws still influence the islands, the "feudal severity" is a thing of the past.

The guide is referring to Guernesiais (Guernsey French). In the 1970s, it could still be heard naturally among older generations in rural parishes like Torteval or St. Saviour's. Today, it is no longer spoken as a primary community language and is classified as critically endangered, though intensive language revitalization efforts are being made in local schools.

The spirit of independence has persisted throughout much of the island’s history and smuggling between the Continent and Britain was one of the islanders’ chief methods of earning a living during the 17th and 18th centuries. Throughout the island the visitor can find caves and cellars where the ‘‘free traders” hid their booty. The climate on Guernsey is particularly suited to maturing wines and spirits and consequently huge quantities of raw liquor found its way onto the island—and helped to put considerable fortunes into the pockets of local cask makers and smugglers.

The historical narrative regarding Guernsey's 17th- and 18th-century smuggling economy is largely accurate, serving as a primary economic driver due to the island's strategic tax-exempt status rather than its climate. While romanticized caves are tied to smuggler lore, contraband was primarily stored in merchant cellars.

Today there is no need for smuggling spirits either in or out of the island, because prices here are as low as anywhere in the world. The main bone of contention, however, is over licensing hours. During the summer period the permitted hours for hotels and inns are 10.00 a.m. to 11 p.m. from Monday to Saturday. But on Sunday all bars are closed and you can only get a drink in the hotel where you are staying or with a meal. This is a point to remember if you are out on that day. (Just as it is to remember that petrol is not sold in Guernsey on Sundays.)

Guernsey's historical restrictions regarding Sunday alcohol sales and petrol availability are heavily outdated and have been completely dismantled. Standard venues can now legally serve alcohol on Sundays from noon until late, and fuel stations operate regular Sunday hours. 

An interesting item to look out for when you are in a bar is the “Black List’ pinned up behind the counter. This is a selection of photographs and descriptions of islanders who have been barred from the local taverns. Guernsey takes a very strong view over drunkenness and to go on this list (which is circulated to every inn keeper and hotel proprietor on the island) is considered the severest and most effective form of punishment. Some offenders have even been known to plead in court that they are put on the list in order to halt their excessive drinking!

The account of Guernsey’s historical "Black List"—a court-mandated registry of individuals barred from local taverns under the Intoxicating Liquor (Prohibition Orders) (Guernsey) Law, 1960—is historically accurate. Chronic offenders occasionally requested inclusion on the list as a legal deterrent to curb excessive drinking, though the practice was eventually phased out in favour of modern privacy frameworks and health initiatives.

Guernsey is divided up into ten parishes and although they have not been dealt with separately in this book, all the interesting sights and attractions they contain are mentioned in the various sections. The bays and beaches have also been treated individually—with their facilities and accessibility—so as to simplify selecting a spot. The coastline is probably Guernsey’s outstanding feature, particularly along the southern edge which has few accessible beaches but provides breath-taking views. Along many other stretches there are ancient remains to be seen and some incredible caves with histories of smuggling and piracy. 

Of all the caves on the island the one which should not be missed is the Creux Mahie at Havre du Bon Repos which can be reached from the road named Chemin le Roi going to Torteval. The cave, which is the largest on the island, is entered by a small hole which suddenly breaks out into a passage some 200 feet long and varying in height from 20 to 60 ft. A torch is needed to explore the cavern, but don’t waste time wondering about the mysterious black marks on the walls—they were caused by the Fire torches carried by fishermen using the place in the past. In the bay below this there is a beautiful rock pool called the ‘““Venus Bath” where bathing is possible.

The guidebook implies you can simply walk in with a torch. This is no longer true. Le Creux Mahié sits entirely on private land and is closed to the general public due to safety, land ownership, and steep, dangerous cliff descents. The only way to access it today is via specially permitted eco-tours, such as those occasionally organized by Outdoor Guernsey.

The author has mixed up two different islands. The famous, deep-water tidal rock pool known as the Venus Pool (or Venus Bath) is actually located on the neighbouring island of Sark (specifically on the rugged headland of Little Sark). It is not at the foot of Creux Mahié

The visitor will obviously spend time in the capital town, St. Peter Port with its tiers of ancient buildings (many of which were built with the spoils from smuggling and piracy), and a separate section is devoted to it. 

No visit would be complete, either, without a trip to the huge reservoir at St. Saviour’s. This is one of the finest pieces of construction work on the Channel Islands and no less impressive because it has been created by such a comparatively small community. The reservoir holds 240 million gallons of water and covers over 38 acres. Beneath its tranquil surface lie three valleys in which there were seven farmhouses and approximately 600 trees. The total cost of the project was £400,000 which is quite a sum for a small island to raise! Guernsey also has its own £257,000 sea water distillation plant which was opened in 1960 and now produces 500,000 gallons of fresh water each day if required.

While the sea water distillation plant opened in 1960 at a cost of £257,000 to produce up to 500,000 gallons daily, it proved uneconomical and was permanently decommissioned in 1970.

But despite progress such as this, the island still clings tenaciously to many old customs and superstitions. For instance the author was told that many islanders believe that a criminal can be exposed by using a Bible and a key. This is effected by placing the key upright on a certain text in the Bible and then getting two people to hold the key upright with their marriage fingers. The name of the suspected criminal is now spoken and if the Bible moves under the key, the person is guilty. More customs are mentioned later in the book, including details of witchcraft, which has long been practised on the island and is still believed to exist in the more remote areas.

Known formally as coscinomancy or bibliomancy, this was a widespread European folk custom. While the guidebook treats it as a uniquely local superstition, 19th-century accounts compiled in Sir Edgar MacCulloch's seminal book Guernsey Folk-Lore confirm that old islanders heavily relied on the "Bible and key" to resolve neighbourhood thefts without involving the courts. It is no longer practiced or believed by modern islanders, existing purely as an entry in historical folklore archives.

Guernsey has one of the darkest histories of witch trials in the British Isles. Between 1560 and 1640, the Royal Court of Guernsey tried over 100 people for sorcery, resulting in 44 people being tortured, hanged, and burned at the stake. By 1974, these supernatural beliefs had effectively vanished from daily life, making the guidebook's claim that witchcraft "is still believed to exist" a massive exaggeration designed to sell books to tourists.

The author's claim that people were still actively using the "Bible and key" or hiding from witches in 1974 is a romanticized embellishment. The last actual legal trial involving witchcraft in Guernsey occurred in January 1914 (the case of Aimée Lake, who was prosecuted for fraud and fortune-telling after selling charms to ward off evil spirits). By the 1970s, the island was fully modernized, highly educated, and transitioning rapidly into a global financial centre. No one in 1974 was seriously consulting a Bible and a key to solve a local crime.

The tourist trade now probably accounts for a large percentage of Guernsey’s income, but the tomato growing industry is not far behind. The industry has grown up over a comparatively short time and there is a story told on the island that when the first tomatoes were introduced from Spain in 1865 and grown locally, many housewives refused to have anything to do with them, believing they were poisonous! Today Guernsey tomatoes are popular all over Great Britain and the Continent and bring in an annual revenue of about £9,500,000 from the millions of trays which are exported. The particularly mild climate of Guernsey (snow and frost are very rare and it is often possible to bathe on Christmas Day) mean that the plants can go in the ground in December and be ripe for sale before any other competitors. There are plenty of opportunities to visit tomato greenhouses, and an inquiry to a grower will almost certainly result in an invitation to a conducted tour.

The author’s story about 1865 housewives refusing to touch tomatoes because they believed they were poisonous is 100% historically true. Because tomatoes belong to the Solanaceae (nightshade) family, they were widely feared across Europe for centuries. Wealthy Europeans also mistakenly blamed the tomato for lead poisoning—not realizing that the fruit's high acidity was actually leaching toxic lead out of their fancy pewter dinner plates!Guernsey did not embrace them commercially until the 1870s and 1880s once these fears were debunked.

The collapse of Guernsey's commercial tomato industry is one of the most dramatic economic turnarounds in the island's modern history. At its peak, the "Guernsey Tom" was a massive economic engine, utilizing over 2,000 vineries and employing 30% of the island's male workforce.

To beat UK and European competitors to market, Guernsey growers planted seeds in December. This required keeping millions of square feet of glasshouses intensely heated through the cold winter months using heavy oil boilers. When the global oil crises of the 1970s struck, the price of fuel skyrocketed, making the cost of heating the glasshouses mathematically unsustainable.

1979: The Second Oil Crisis and the Breaking Point. Fuel costs surge to a level where it officially costs more to grow and heat a Guernsey tomato than it is worth on the open market. Total acreage dedicated to tomatoes drops immediately by more than half, falling from 567 acres down to 240 acres over the next few years.

While Guernsey struggled with soaring oil costs, the Netherlands discovered vast reserves of cheap North Sea natural gas. The Dutch government heavily subsidized heating costs for their own greenhouse growers. Combined with advanced massive-scale automation, Holland completely undercut Guernsey's prices on the UK market.

Historically, Guernsey tomatoes were rushed from the harbour at St. Peter Port to English ports, then distributed nationwide via efficient British Rail fruit-train networks. Changes and cuts to the UK railway system disrupted these classic distribution lines, driving up transport freight costs.

July 1992: The official tourist-facing Guernsey Tomato Centre, which had opened in 1977 to champion the history and heritage of the crop, permanently winds up operations and shuts its doors