Looking around Guernsey 1972 – Part 8

Looking around Guernsey 1972 – Part 8

Islands of the Bailiwick

GUERNSEY is the best centre from which to visit all the other Channel Islands, including Jersey which is a separate Bailiwick. This gives visitors the chance to enjoy several kinds of holiday during their stay, simply by taking day trips to the other islands; these are surprisingly unlike each other in character and even in scenery, so that they almost seem to be different "little countries".

 

Alderney

LYING some 20 miles from Guernsey, Alderney is the closest of the Channel Islands to England —and also to France. You can reach Alderney by plane or by hydrofoil from Guernsey; the air trip takes only about 15 minutes and there are frequent daily flights. The hydrofoil runs on certain days of the week and takes about 40 minutes, but it provides a novel and exhilarating journey as it skims over the water on its "skis".

Alderney is about 31/2 miles long by 11/2 mile wide, and has a population of 1,686 — most of whom are "settlers" from the United Kingdom. It is well off for fine bays and sandy beaches that are ideal for children, and has a friendly easy-going atmosphere.

The island enjoys the longest licensing hours in the British Isles, the bars opening from 9 a.m. right round to 1 a.m. the next morning in the summer.

During World War II, Alderney was completely evacuated and turned by the Germans into a camp for political prisoners and slave workers, but the only reminders of this unhappy time you will find now are the remains of heavy fortifications.

Politically, Alderney is the most democratic of the Channel Islands, and is headed by a President who is elected by popular vote. Otherwise, the States of Alderney is a miniature version of Guernsey's government, and enacts laws relating to local affairs.

A few years ago, the people of Alderney built their own nine-hole golf course, which is now a popular tourist attraction.

Many visitors, too, are enchanted by the little town of St. Anne's, with its cobbled streets, quaint houses, shops and welcoming bars.

Alderney has always been reckoned to be something of a naturalists' paradise. If you visit it by hydrofoil, you will see the island and bird sanctuary of Burhou as you approach; you will notice, too, the famous Casquet Rocks and lighthouse, and the Admiralty Breakwater.

Sark

THE tiny feudal state of Sark is a world of its own, and when you get off the boat at La Maseline Harbour after an hour's crossing from Guernsey, you will feel as though you have stepped back a hundred years or more. The island runs its own shipping service, incidentally, and there are boats running daily except for Sunday.

You can only get to Sark by sea, because planes, helicopters and motor-cars are banned on the island. "Taxis" are horse-drawn carriages, which will also take you on an island tour. But there are bicycles for hire, too, though you will have to climb the steep hill from harbour to village to get them. Because of the ban on cars, even the island's doctor has to do his rounds on a bicycle, and the local ambulance is drawn by a tractor.

Sark still has a feudal constitution dating back to the reign of Elizabeth I. The hereditary ruler is the Seigneur, who today is Dame Sibyl Hathaway —La Dame de Serq. The government is the Court of Chief Pleas, a feudal body that legislates on local matters. The island has no income tax, death duties, divorce or adoption laws.

The Seneschal’s court has jurisdiction over minor offences, but the tiny stone building that is Sark's prison is rather a local joke — and is supposedly haunted.

Unlike the people of Alderney, the Sarkese elected to remain on the island during the German Occupation of the Channel Islands, with the result that their way of life has changed remarkably little. More than any of the other islands, Sark has kept its original character.

Roughly about the same size as Alderney, but with a population of only 584, it has a spectacular coastline of 300ft-high cliffs. The scenery is ruggedly beautiful, and one of the most outstanding natural sights is La Coupé — a precipitous "cat-walk" that joins Sark to a piece of land known as "Little Sark".

What people really enjoy most about this feudal island is its peace. Many visitors find it astonishing to hear bird-song and the lapping of the waves so clearly because there are no cars or motor-bikes to drown the sound.

Herm

BLESSED with lovely sandy beaches and blue bays, Herm has been described as "the nearest thing to fairyland" and "a real treasure island".

The island belongs to Guernsey and lies only three miles off St. Peter Port, and is a favourite week-end playground for Guernsey people themselves. In summer, boats operate frequent services from St. Peter Port.

The present tenant, Major Peter Wood, who has leased the island from Guernsey for over 20 years now, has developed it into a popular resort attracting over 90,000 visitors a year without spoiling any of its natural beauty.

The little shopping piazza he has built just above the harbour is very charming; in the vicinity you will find a restaurant, The Mermaid Tavern, snack bar and tea garden.

Top favourite with the children is the Shell Beach, made up of fragments of hundreds of varieties of shells washed up by the Gulf Stream. Also very popular is Belvoir Bay.

Jethou

[Now private no visitors]

SMALLER and more rocky than neighbouring Herm, this 11/4-mile-round island has a rugged attraction of its own, and is particularly beautiful in spring, when the hillsides are carpeted with bluebells.

Jethou is Crown property, and there is only one house on it, which is occupied by the tenant. But there is also a small cafe and little bar for visitors. You can-walk around the island in less than an hour, and enjoy some fine views of Herm, Guernsey, and Sark.

Lihou

TINY Lihou is linked to the Guernsey mainland near L'Eree by an ancient causeway so that at certain tides you can walk over to the island. The waters here are treacherous, so you should be careful to watch the tide time-tables — otherwise you could be stranded for several hours!

The island is leased from the Crown by Lt.-Colonel Patrick Wootton who has made it the centre of an international youth project which holds summer camps there.

In conclusion...

You will have read enough here to see that the Bailiwick of Guernsey is unusual not only because it is a small self-governing community that has kept its laws and customs largely intact for centuries, but also because in this small island layers of European civilisation stretching from prehistoric times through Norman feudalism to the Napoleonic Wars and Hitler's Third Reich are still in evidence.

We hope that the "difference" we have pointed out will make your visit to Guernsey not only a relaxing holiday but a fascinating glimpse into a way of life. If you want to go more deeply into any aspect of local life the Priaulx Library (just above Candle Gardens in St. Peter Port) has an unrivalled collection of books about the Channel Islands — admission is free and visitors are welcome. Below we list some of the better-known books that are on sale in local shops.

The Bailiwick of Guernsey (revised edition) by C. P. Le Huray. Revised by J. C. T. Uttley (Hodder & Stoughton).

The Story of the Channel Islands by J. C. T. Uttley (Faber).

The Channel Islands by Wilfred D. Hooke (Robert Hale).

Introducing the Channel Islands by H. Myhil I (Faber). Dame of Sark : Autobiography by Sibyl Hathaway (Heinemann).

Guernsey's Natural History by Nigel Jee (Nigel Jee). Witchcraft & the Evil Eye in Guernsey by J. Stevens Cox (Toucan Press).

Herm: its Mysteries & Charms by Michael Marshall (Guernsey Press).

The Fief of Sark by A. H. Ewen and A. R. de Carteret (Guernsey Press).

GERMAN OCCUPATION

Islands in Danger by Alan and Mary Wood (New English Library).

The Silent War by Frank Falla (New English Library). Hitler's Fortress Islands by Carel Toms (New English Library).

One Man's War by Frank Stroobant (Frank Stroobant). Swastika Over Guernsey by Victor Coysh (Guernsey Press).

The Alderney Story by Michael Packe and Maurice Dreyfus (Guernsey Press).

Looking around Guernsey 1972 – Part 7

Looking around Guernsey 1972 – Part 7

Exploring inland

OF Guernsey's' ten parishes, nine have part of their boundary along the coast. The exception is St. Andrew's which, like the southern parishes, has innumerable green and leafy lanes winding between tiny hamlets, beckoning to be explored.

St. Andrew's is also the parish in which the privately run Guernsey Zoo is situated at La Villiaze. Since it was founded several years ago it has been expanded and improved. Emphasis has been laid on smaller animals of all kinds which are especially appealing to children.

There are many lovely walks to enjoy inland, as well as on the coast, but if you feel lazy you may prefer to join one of several island coach tours and an evening drives organized by local transport companies.

The regular bus services cover the whole island and are very frequent. Visitors continually remark on the friendliness and courtesy of the bus drivers, who are always ready to help you. You will find too that the comprehensive pocket time-table is useful as are a new set of Perry's guide maps, in booklet form.

You may hear people talking about the Water Lanes. They are a feature of the scenery which belongs to Guernsey alone. These rugged, picturesque lanes leading to the shore have a stream in their centre, and the cool water gurgles over smooth stones among luxuriant green ferns of rare and fresh beauty. The best-known Water Lanes are those at Moulin Huet and Petit Bat.

 

A fascinating and unique chapel is situated at Les Vauxbelets. It is the smallest church in the world, having room inside for a priest and a congregation of two. Built beneath the trees beside a former Roman Catholic College, it was the life's work of one of the brothers, who decorated the entire surface, both inside and out, with shells and pieces of broken china. The sun, slanting through the trees, highlights the church in the clearing, and the effect is of an enchanted fairyland of multi-coloured mosaic. People who have visited this shrine, built in the style of our Lady of Lourdes, used to' send consignments of broken china from all over the world to decorate the church.

An interesting spot, if with somewhat macabre associations, is Bailiff's Cross, a crossroad where stands the Hangman's Inn. Lowering your gaze from the rather gruesome inn sign, you will notice a stone with a faint cross cut in it. This is the Bailiff's Cross Stone, where a Bailiff, Gaultier de la Salle, is said to have paused for the sacrament on his way to execution. Legend has it that Gaultier de la Salle, to resolve a dispute with a neighbour, (invented a charge of theft against him. The neighbour was arraigned before the Bailiff in court and was about to be sentenced when the Bailiff's treachery was discovered. Gaultier de la Salle was forced to change places with the accused and duly despatched to the gallows not far from this crossroad.

History, however, has a simpler explanation. It is that Gaultier de la Salle was sentenced for complicity in the murder of a man who had been pardoned for an accidental killing. None the less, the legend holds its own.

Colourful memories of Guernsey are provided 't ' by the island's beautiful gardens. Our mild climate coaxes all kinds of flowers to bloom which most amateur gardeners only dream about.

For horticulture on a grand scale, go up to Saumarez Park, once the home of an ancient Guernsey family, and now a hostel for old folk. Here you may stroll in the green parkland, beside the lily ponds with their quaint Japanese summer houses. Every year, Saumarez Park is the scene of the Carnival of the Battle of Flowers which is the highlight of a two-day horticultural and agricultural show. A parade of floats depicting all kinds of subjects and decorated with a profusion of glorious flowers, the "Battle" attracts over 20,000 spectators. Today the old custom of tearing the floats apart and pelting people with blooms has been dropped. Instead the prize-winning exhibits go on floodlit display.

Near Saumarez House is the Guernsey Folk Museum which is full of delightful treasures from the past. They depict the islanders' traditional way of life — particularly that of the cottagers. It has old farming equipment, carriages, a cider press and a replica of a Guernsey kitchen complete with spinning wheel, butter churn and furze oven.

The Evening Scene

Guernsey does not pretend to have a big-city night life, but there is plenty to do in the evenings if you like shows, dancing, eating out or enjoying a drink in romantic settings. Local night life is friendly and informal in keeping with the island's character.

At the Little Theatre — up a flight of steps from the markets — a versatile repertory company puts on a different play every week, changing the programme mid-week to give visitors a chance of seeing two or three productions during their stay.

Britain's latest film releases are shown at the two cinemas — the Odeon in Upland Road and the Gaumont in St. Julian's Avenue. Late buses for cinemagoers run to most parts of the island.

Cabaret shows starring well-known mainland artistes are staged at several hotels. There is dancing every evening at many of the larger hotels together with late-night clubs and discotheques for the young and trendy. An all-family evening rendezvous is the tenpin bowling alley in First Tower Lane.

You can find out about the current events from the Guernsey Evening Press & Star or from the two holiday guides issued free to visitors, What's On and What Where When.

Guernsey's diners-out have a choice of at least 30 restaurants of varying price and style. The fame of some local restaurants has spread well beyond the island, and most of the better establishments feature local shellfish, island-grown vegetables and Guernsey cream on their menus. English and French cuisine predominate but there are also restaurants specialising in Italian and Chinese food.

It is in the friendly pubs that many visitors find the real flavour of Guernsey, meeting local characters and — in some of the country districts — hearing the Guernsey-French patois spoken. You will discover that Guernsey has a fascinating variety of pubs and bars from the sophisticated to the rustic. Many of them have wonderful sea views and others have equally picturesque inland settings.

Most of the draught and bottled beers served locally come from the island's two breweries. Connoisseurs say it is good stuff — but watch your head because it is probably stronger than your pint back home!

Looking around Guernsey 1972 – Part 6

Looking around Guernsey 1972 – Part 6

Walking by the sea

GUERNSEY'S most spectacular attraction is probably the unspoilt cliff paths that run from Havelet Bay all the way to Pleinmont. Thousands of visitors, and Guernsey people, too, can enjoy a pleasure that is hard to rival anywhere in the British Isles — of walking for miles by the sea, undisturbed by traffic, with unfolding views before them of magnificent coastal scenery.

Since 1927 the policy of the Guernsey authorities has been to preserve these beautiful stretches of open country, and nowadays houses or hotels are no longer allowed to be built along the cliffs.

The Cliffs of the South

Visitors who return to Guernsey year after year often have their favourite section of cliff paths. Many would agree that the southern strip is the loveliest part of all. Lofty, majestic cliffs, steep wooded valleys running right down to the sea, shady leafy lanes —all nature's beauty seems crystallised in this small area. The sea views from the south are unsurpassed, for the land rises steeply from the foreshore to heights of over 300 ft.

The motorist has the choice of several good roads that will take him out of town to these uplands, but if you want to walk you can follow the cliff paths from the bathing pools at La Vallette and enjoy an almost fairyland walk. Just past the bathing pools, by the steps leading to Fort George, and the start of these cliff paths, is the Guernsey Aquarium. Here, in the picturesque setting of a converted German tunnel, are many tanks of curious and colourful local fish. [This is now closed]

On the boundaries of St. Peter Port and St. Martin's is Fermain. The slopes above Fermain are thickly wooded and the natural beauty of the bay, combined with its proximity to St. Peter Port, make it one of the favourite holiday spots in Guernsey. A summer attraction at the bay is the passenger launches that run between Fermain and St. Peter Port.

Immediately south of Fermain Bay pleasant and picturesque cliff walks will take you to the fisherman's harbour of Bec du Nez, Marble Bay and Divette.

The glorious cliff scenery of this part of Guernsey, with grass and furze covering the rocks and softening their harsh blackness is typical of the southern coast. Perhaps some of the finest scenery is to be found in this south-east corner of the island, in the peninsula known as Jerbourg. Visit St. Martin's Point, and look across Telegraph Bay to the famous line of rocks called the peastacks. From here, a charming lane follows the crest of the cliffs, and then runs inland to the Doyle Monument.

The original monument was erected in memory of Sir John Doyle, Governor of Guernsey at the beginning of the nineteenth century. It was demolished by the Germans, and the present monument was built to replace it in 1953. An enchanting panorama unfolds at this point; it includes the whole of the East Coast and the full sweep of Moulin Huet Bay to Icart Point.

A little way from the Doyle Monument there's a path leading to Petit Port, one of Guernsey's most popular bays. Although the steps down to the beach seem unending, Petit Port is perfect for bathing, and a popular spot for surf bathing, too. Next to Petit Port is Moulin Huet, easier to get to, and therefore more crowded.

Saints Bay, the next along the coast, is another fine spot for bathing, and the little fishermen's harbour nearby is a paradise for keen swimmers. On the far side of Saints Bay is Icart Point, which gives a fine view of cliffs and bays in either direction. Looking west, you can see La Bette, Jaonnet, Petit Bat and Portelet, and away in the distance, La Moye Point.

The twin bays of Jaonnet and La Bette are delightful, with their golden sand and lofty caverns. They're not so easy to reach as some of the other bays, and for this reason few people visit them — but perhaps this is part of their charm. Petit Bet, next along the coast, makes quite a contrast. This tiny bay is very popular, and the winding roads approaching it give tantalising glimpses of the golden sand and azure sea as they wend their way downward through the woods.

Adjoining Petit Bot is Portelet, the last sandy bay on this beautiful south coast. You will find it less frequented than Petitbot, where the road runs right down to the bay.

Now the contours of the coast take a wilder turn, beyond Le Gouffre where the seething waves boil unceasingly on the rocks. Next comes Corbière Point, then the Havre de Bon Repos, a little bay where at the east end you will find Venus's Pool. The receding tide leaves this hollow in the rocks filled with clear warm water that is grand for bathing.

The last place of interest along the beautiful south coast is Creux Mahie, the largest cave in Guernsey, and an eternal lure to intrepid explorers. The mouth of the cave is above high water mark, so you're quite safe.

 

And so you've come to Pleinmont, where the scenery changes to the broad bays of the west. You can spend days rambling through the paths which honeycomb the southern cliffs, never once retracing your footsteps. And you'll understand Guernsey's claim to a beauty that has no parallel in the British Isles.

The West Coast

IT IS a constant delight to visitors to Guernsey that they only have to go a few miles to experience changes of scenery which, in bigger countries, would only be seen in hundreds of miles of travel. Down the west coast, the shore curves gracefully in and out in a series of wide, sweeping bays, showing — at low tide .— a broad expanse of sand, and punctuated by rocks and fortresses, headlands waiting to be explored.

One of the great advantages of these bays is that they are right next to the main road which runs along just behind them. For this reason, perhaps they're best for children, especially as the bathing is safe and shallow.

The hinterland of the west coast is a broad plain, protected against encroachment by the sea by a strongly built wall. At each bay, you'll notice a slipway, which often extends as a paved or cobbled path for some distance across the beach. These paths were built for the gatherers of seaweed, so that they could bring their horse-drawn carts right down on the beach.

Seaweed gathering used to be a widespread occupation of the islanders. The old horse-drawn vraic (seaweed) carts have disappeared from the scene, however, and motor lorries are used to gather it now.

During the 19th century the manufacture of iodine was carried on, and until recently there were still traces of the industry on Lihou Island. This island is a place of wild and rugged beauty, where you will see the remains of a priory and some very fine rock pools.

Facing Lihou is Fort Saumarez, a tall Martello tower — relic of the Napoleonic wars. In striking contrast is the concrete addition built by the Germans.

There is little to choose between the west coast bays for sheer holiday-making delight. Vazon, Cobo and a host of smaller bays all have their faithful band of devotees. All offer gloriously safe bathing, and sun-bathing on fine, sandy beaches.

South of Perelle Bay — still very much local fishermen's bay — is L'Eree Bay culminating in L'Eree headland from which you walk across to Lihou. Then on south again, till you come to a vast curve of shore which encloses Rocquaine Bay, largest bay in Guernsey. Across the wide sweep of Rocquaine Bay, tucked into its southernmost wing, is Portelet, a little harbour formed by a small bay. With its sandy beach sloping gently seawards, Portelet is another paradise for children.

Now you're at the south-west corner of Guernsey, at the tip of land called Pleinmont Point. The scenery here is wild and romantic, the land giving place to the sea at rugged precipitous cliffs. This untamed region is well worth a visit. There's a ruined castle called Pezerie, whose history is lost in the mist of antiquity. The high ground almost opposite gives a good view of this fort, which is built in the shape of a star.

 

Looking westwards you can make out a line of reefs called Les Hanois which has been the grave of many a gallant ship. In 1862 the Hanois Lighthouse was built, and its revolving beam throws a warning to mariners up to 12 miles distant of the deadly welcome that awaits them on the Hanois.

At the foot of the cliff at Pleinmont Point there is a curious circle of stones with a concentric trench. Probably of prehistoric origin, this is called Le Table des Pions — the footman's table.

YOU can choose any one of a number of roads back to Town from Pleinmont, all full of interest and scenic beauty.

Near the Town Arsenal stands the red granite pile of Victoria Tower, built in commemoration of the visit of Queen Victoria and the Prince Consort to Guernsey in 1846. Built to a height of 100 ft. with the top over 300 ft. above sea level, Victoria Tower provides a fine vantage point from which to view the town and the surrounding islands.

At the bottom of the Grange is Elizabeth College, Guernsey's only public school. It was founded in 1563 by Queen Elizabeth I.

North from Town

TRAVELLING northwards from St. Peter Port, you'll come shortly to thriving St. Sampson's. A prosperous shipbuilding port in the hey-day of the wooden sailing ship, St. Sampson's later became the loading point for shiploads of granite from the once flourishing Guernsey quarries. The harbour itself is a fine example of Guernsey craftsmanship in the native stone. In recent years; the local granite industry has revived a little, and you will have noticed the grey-blue stone much in evidence in buildings around the island.

St. Sampson's is the nearest Guernsey has to an industrial area. Here, there is the only ship repair yard in the Channel Islands; the island's electricity power-house; the sea-water distillation plant; and the Guernsey Tomato Marketing Board's packing station. But St. Sampson's has also developed as an attractive, flourishing shopping centre, and gives visitors the impression of a bustling village community, busy about its daily affairs.

Travelling northwards again, the next place we come to is Bordeaux, a fishing haven in a tiny bay.

 

Farther on, at the northern tip of the island is L'Ancresse Bay — a lovely wide stretch of sand. Behind the bay lies L'Ancresse Common, another pleasure spot like the bay itself for tourists and local people alike. Peppered with Martello towers like chessmen on a giant board, the common is the site of the Guernsey golf course.

Beyond L'Ancresse Bay (also known as Pembroke Bay) is the rugged headland of Chouet, which in turn gives place to the inlet of Grand Havre. Running alongside the golf course here is Ladies Bay, an attractive sandy beach that seldom becomes really crowded.

Looking around Guernsey 1972 – Part 5

Looking around Guernsey 1972 – Part 5

Castle Cornet

STANDING like a lone sentinel overlooking the harbour mouth is Castle Cornet, an ancient fortress that has played an important and exciting part in Guernsey's turbulent history. Built, according to some authorities, in the reign of King Stephen, Castle Cornet has been the scene of numerous hard-fought battles, and on several occasions during the continuous strife with France, its steps have echoed to the tread of the invading French army.

During the Civil War in the reign of Charles I the island supported Cromwell, but the Royalist Governor, Sir Peter Osborne, withdrew with a handful of the King's men to Castle Cornet, which they held for the King for nine years. Indeed, the Castle was the last Royalist stronghold to surrender to the forces of Parliament (December 15th; 1651).

In 1940, the Germans took over Castle Cornet, although it was hardly adaptable to the needs of modern warfare. As an example of military architecture it is remarkable because it has borne the influences of succeeding armies from Norman times right up to the fortifications installed by the Nazis.

The Castle was the property of the War Office until 1948, when it was presented to the States by the British Government. It is maintained as an ancient monument and is full of romance and historic charm.

Thousands of people visit it each year, and many take advantage of the conducted tour which begins every day at 10.45 a.m. and ends about 11.30 a.m. Actual hours of opening are:— weekdays (except Saturday afternoons) — 10.30 a.m. to 12.30 p.m. and 2.30 p.m. to 6.00 p.m., and Sundays — 10.30 a.m. to 12.30 p.m.

The Castle also contains the Royal Guernsey Militia Museum, the Maritime Museum, the Armoury — showing former uniforms, models and weapons —and an Occupation Museum. More peaceful is a collection of water colours by the 19th-century local artist, Major Peter Le Lievre, a Guernsey Militiaman who has charmingly depicted island scenes and people of over a century ago.

Women visitors, particularly, enjoy the gardens at Castle Cornet, which are very fine in late spring and summer and are looked after by the head keeper and his assistants.

Victor Hugo's House

HAUTEVILLE HOUSE, the home in exile of the famous 19th-century French writer Victor Hugo, is one of the most interesting houses in Guernsey, and every year thousands of British and French people make their way up the steep Hauteville road on the south side of St. Peter Port to visit it.

Hugo lived in Guernsey from 1855 until 1870, when the Second Empire fell. His home now belongs to the City of Paris, and has been preserved as a memorial. Here, you can see all his personal belongings and furniture, just as Hugo left them.

From the high window of his study you can look out over the sea as he did, and on a fine day, pick out the coast line of his native land. Standing in his study, Hugo penned his famous book, The Toilers of the Sea, written about and dedicated to the sturdy island folk among whom he had made his home and also gave much for the poor children of Guernsey and it is as much for his charitable work as his writings that he was affectionately revered in the island.

His statue stands in Candie Gardens, and shows him striding forth in flowing cloak — just as he used to do on his marathon walks around Guernsey. In his last year of exile, the poet planted an oak tree at Hauteville, predicting that by the time it was full grown there would be a united Europe.

Hugo's oak has become a symbol of European unity, and sprigs from it tended in a Guernsey nursery have been planted in many Continental countries. In 1970, delegates from several European centres came to Guernsey to celebrate the centenary of the oak tree's planting, and take part in a ceremony held below Hugo's statue.

Candie Gardens lie just above St. Peter Port. These miniature botanic gardens contain a variety of sub-tropical plants, trees and shrubs grown in the open — including a lemon tree bearing fruit that frequently ripens.

Guernsey's colourful past



FOR so small an island, Guernsey is rich in evidence of a colourful past in the form of ancient dolmens, castles and forts. It is a quality that has come to be recognised nowadays as historical depth, and many visitors are fascinated by its abundance in the island. Although the States of Guernsey has a very limited budget in comparison to the UK government they are doing what they can to preserve and restore the most significant of these ancient monuments.

 

There are quite a number of dolmens — tombs of prehistoric tribes — in Guernsey. Probably the most interesting is the 3,000-year-old Delius Dolmen near the yacht marina in the Vale. It has been described as one of the finest examples of a passage grave in Western Europe. Electric light has been laid on there, so you will be able to see the marvellously preserved prehistoric rock carving known as "The Guardian of the Tomb".

Also interesting are the La Varde dolmen at the Pembroke end of L'Ancresse Common, and Le Creux as Faies at L'Eree. But Le Catioroc dolmen, standing on a mound overlooking Perelle Bay, has the weirdest history of all. The west coast is still considered "witches' country" by many local people, and Le Catioroc was one of the chief meeting places for the Guernsey witches' "sabbat". At this Friday-night orgy they hurled insults at the Chapel of the Holy Virgin on Lihou island, chanting, "Que Hou Hou Marie Lihou". According to local antiquarian Mr. J. Stevens Cox, "Hou" is the name of an ancient Breton god.

At one time witches appear to have got a good grip on Guernsey; island folk-lore is full of them, while the Royal Court holds records of actual witch trials that have taken place.

A pagan but more harmless lady, affectionately known as "La Grand'Mere du Chimquiere", stands at the gate of St. Martin's Church. An authority from the British Museum dates the sculpture at around 700 B.C. Poor Grand'Mere still bears a scar near her skirted shin-bones where a former church warden, affronted at the presence of a heretic so near to the church, tried unsuccessfully to hack her down.

One of the island's most ancient fortresses is Ivy Castle, near Le Bouet, said to be a Norman stronghold older than any in England, because it was built before the Conquest by William the Conqueror's father, Robert the Devil. The real name of the fortress is "Le Chateau des Marais", and Guernsey's Ancient Monuments Committee are working on its restoration, which may take some years. The size and layout of Ivy Castle, with its inner and outer baileys and its moat, could really be appreciated best from the air. From the outer circle of defence wall, sturdy Guernseymen of old are said to have hurled arrows, stones and other missiles at marauding pirates creeping towards them over the marshlands of the Vale.

 

Vale Castle at St. Sampson's is also very old, but its origins are lost in time. From afar, it gives an illusion of the strong fortification it was at one time, but you will see as you approach that it is really a ruin. Round about 1805, a Russian garrison was stationed at Vale Castle. Gentle to children and kindly enough when sober, they turned into wild ruffians under the influence of liquor and no woman was said to be safe from them. They terrorised St. Sampson's to such an extent that one Guernsey family actually emigrated to America because of them!

At key points in Guernsey you will see old fortifications that are links in a chain of defence covering centuries. Fort Pezerie, Rocquaine Castle (also known as Fort Grey and "The Cup and Saucer") Fort Saumarez — all have a place in the island's history, as do the many Martello towers.

Fort George, which has now been developed as a luxury housing estate for wealthy settlers, was a British garrison from 1780 until the outbreak of World War II, and English redcoats once swam in Soldiers' Bay.

Feudalism survives in Guernsey today in its fiefs — parcels of land owned and ruled over by seigneurs or lords of the manor. The seigneur still has special privileges, such as conge, which entitles him to two per cent of the selling price of any property sold within his fief as long as it does not change hands more than once a year.

Some of the ancient fiefs have seigneurs who are lords of the manor by right of purchase, but the most splendid example of a hereditary seigneurie is perhaps Sausmarez Manor in St. Martin's — a stately home that has belonged to the de Sausmarez family for over 600 years. It is open to the public in the summer and is well worth a visit. You will see here the old Tudor Court House, where members of the fief and their seigneur still hold feudal court once a year.

Several Guernsey churches are very old and St. Saviour's is the most untouched by the centuries, and stands at the roadside almost exactly as it was when it was built in 1394. The Vicar of St. Saviour's has launched a scheme to restore St. Appoline, which is to be rededicated afterwards as a Chapel of Christian Unity. Restoration of what a UK expert _ has said are fine examples of mediaeval frescos will probably be one of the most costly items, and may take several years to achieve.

Hitler's Legacy

IN 1940, Hitler invaded the Channel Islands, which the Germans occupied for five dreary years. To turn Guernsey into an island fortress, vast quantities of concrete and steel were poured into it and thousands of slave workers were brought from all over Europe.

It is surprising how few signs there are now in this peaceful holiday island of Nazi Germany, considering there was scarcely an acre of open space that was not used as a gun emplacement, strongpoint, observation post or ammunition store. The concrete fortifications you will see on the cliffs — particularly along the west coast — have been left because they would have been too costly to demolish, but a number of structures have been filled in, covered over or blocked to make the cliffs and commons safer and more sightly. Some of Hitler's relics such as tunnels and bunkers have been turned to peaceful uses —for storage, cow-sheds, garages and even converted into houses!

The vast underground hospital at St. Andrew's —the largest German structure in the Channel Islands —was reopened years ago as a tourist attraction. Another spectacular fortification was the "Mirus" battery near the west coast.

The Germans mounted 12-inch guns here on huge circular emplacements that you can still see. Each gun was camouflaged by a dummy cottage that traversed with it, and a network of underground quarters and store-rooms adjoined the sites.

The Occupation Museum at the Forest contains hundreds of interesting relics, set out in such a way that visitors are given a fascinating glimpse into life in Guernsey under the German jackboot.

Looking around Guernsey 1972 – Part 4

Looking around Guernsey 1972 – Part 4

Gateways to Guernsey

WITH over 3,000 private yachts visiting St. Peter Port each year, not to mention thousands of tons of commercial shipping, today's islanders have reason to be grateful to their ancestors who laid plans for the harbour over 100 years ago.

Today it represents a mixture of the old and the very new. Deep water berths for cargo ships have been provided — this means they no longer have to wait in the roadsteads for convenient aides — and container handling facilities have been built.

Work on the two great breakwaters — the southern one ended Castle Cornet's long history as an island — began in 1853. Ever since much of the prosperity of Guernsey has depended on the smooth functioning of the harbour.

At the White Rock, a signal station is manned at all times by trained staff who keep in radio contact with most in-going and out-going vessels.

Moored in the harbour are two boats of constant interest to visitors — the R.N.L.I. lifeboat and "Flying Christine II" St. John Ambulance's fast rescue and ambulance launch.

St. Peter Port harbour, apart from its spectacular day and night views — when Castle Cornet is floodlit —holds other attractions.

The Castle Breakwater lighthouse is a good spot for fishermen while placed at strategic points are seats for those who just want to sit and watch the never ceasing activity.

Launches ply in and out from Herm, small sailing craft bob about near the Guernsey Yacht Club, inshore trawlers mingle with larger vessels which carry over 50,000 tons of tomatoes to the UK each year.

St. Sampson's harbour, although smaller is also full of interest. It deals with private boats, gas and fuel tankers and "timber" boats. Its outer Ladies' Breakwater is another favoured angling spot.

Farther north, in a former quarry, a private company has established a yacht marina with restaurant, clubhouse and re-fuelling facilities.

On the highest part of Guernsey — some 350 ft. above sea level — the island's only airport, one of the busiest in the British Isles, has been sited. There are observation facilities on the roof of the terminal buildings which themselves contain bar and snack-catering sections.

Town on the hill

St Peter Port is the most attractive harbour capital in Europe. The houses rise tier upon tier up the hillside on which the town is built so that fine sea-views can be glimpsed from nearly every building, reached by narrow winding steps or quaint, cobbled streets.

Behind the blue waters of the harbour, bobbing with yachts and small craft of every kind, there are no proms or piers to spoil for visitors the unselfconscious charm of St. Peter Port, which still keeps something of its earlier character of a fishing village.

St. Peter Port is quite a small town, although it has — like most capitals — outgrown its original boundaries. These used to be marked by a series of barrier stones, all dated 1700. You can see one of these barrier stones outside the Post Office in Smith Street, and there's an explanatory tablet to tell visitors what it's all about.

Nowadays, the legal boundaries of the town extend outwards to include the residential belt that has grown up during the last century-and-a-half. This belt touches on the parishes of St. Sampson's, St. Andrew's, Castel and St. Martin's.

If you want to get a really good bird's eye-view of St. Peter Port, you must climb up Cornet Street and Hauteville. At the top of Hauteville, the road forking to the left leads to Fort George, and then on to St. Martin's. On the right, between two pillars is the carriageway of the Montville estate, now public property. From the carriageway, a splendid panorama of the town unfolds beneath you.

Now you can see that St. Peter Port has developed in a valley. The sides of the valley are very steep in places, and nowhere is the valley very wide. It narrows considerably towards the sea, and at the very mouth stands the Town Church, parish church of St. Peter Port.

It is the finest church in Guernsey, and, indeed, in the whole of the Channel Islands. The chancel is 12th-century, the portion to the east of this is 13th-century, and the south chapel is 15th-century. The present interior arrangement of the church is as recent as 1886. Look out for the memorial screen to one of Guernsey's illustrious sons, Sir Isaac Brock, who fell in the battle of Queenstown Heights, in Canada,

St. Peter Port shops and scenes

SHOPPING in the main streets of St. Peter Port is a special delight to visitors not only from the UK, but also from Belgium, France and other European countries — because the shops are filled with goods of every kind that often cost much less than in their own country.

This is because there is no purchase tax in Guernsey, and the duty on tobacco, spirits and other luxury goods is much lower than in the VK and many other countries. Guernsey, for instance, is said to be the cheapest place in the world for reputable makes of clocks and watches.

For shopping of a rather different kind, pay a visit to the markets, where all sorts of local produce is on display. In the fish market, many kinds of local fish — including live lobsters and crabs — are on sale.

You will probably notice the peculiar shells with a mother-of-pearl appearance which are offered for sale on some stalls for a few pence. This is the shell of the ormer (oreille-de-mer, or sea-ear, because it is shaped like a human ear). Channel Islands waters are the only part of the British Isles where it is to be found. It is looked upon as a delicacy and is protected by law, it being illegal to take ormers except during certain periods from December to April. It is also illegal to take any less than three inches in diameter.

The oldest of the covered markets is the French Halles, built as a private venture in 1780. Originally used as a meat market, it was purchased by the States in 1817. When the present meat market was built in 1822, the French Halles was turned over to the sale of eggs, butter, poultry and fruit from Brittany — hence the name of the market.

Later on, the present vegetable market was built as part of a scheme to widen and improve the adjacent Fountain Street. The States of Guernsey Dairy is also in the market, where you can buy the thick cream, rich butter and milk for which the golden breed of Guernsey cattle is famous.

Just above the French Halles, you will find the Guille-Alles Library and Museum, and in Cornet Street, the Island and Lukis Museum — which contains many interesting local exhibits

Looking around Guernsey 1972 – Part 3

Note: the glasshouses and the tomatoindustry no longer exist. Flowers have largely gone as a large market as well.

Looking around Guernsey 1972 – Part 3

How we make our living

Contrary to the belief of some mainlanders, Guernsey receives no grant of any kind from the British Government.

The island has a self-supporting economy based primarily on its tomato and flower exports, its tourists industry and — increasingly over the past decade — its international banking business.

In the past Guernseymen earned their living in many ways from privateering and entrepot trade to growing dessert grapes for the tables of Victorian England.

The famous "Guernsey Tom" began to appear about a century ago under the name of "love apple". The tomatoes were grown in the glasshouses previously used for grapes, which is why a tomato nursery is known here as a "vinery".

Some of today's glasshouses are as large as aircraft hangars with automatic controls that allow up to 10,000 plants to be tended by two men. The industry now has a producer-owned central marketing board that grades, packs and ships about £10 million worth of "toms" a year, predominantly for UK markets.

Flowers are grown both under glass and in the open. They include roses (Guernsey is now one of the British Isles' major rose-growing areas), carnations, chrysanthemums, freesias, irises, orchids, daffodils, gladioli, tulips, anemones and fern. About £4 million worth a year are exported.

Guernsey's centuries-old fishing industry is far from extinct — in fact, new methods of fishing and marketing are emerging. Local fishermen and divers sell substantial quantities of shellfish, especially scallops, crayfish and lobster, to France, Jersey and the UK.

Dairy farming, too, is still vital to the economy because the island endeavours (and, except sometimes in mid-winter, successfully) to be self-supporting in milk. Only the world-famous breed of Guernsey cow is allowed here and, as you will see, many farmers still tether their animals in the fields to "ration" grazing. Experiments are being made to develop a Guernsey-Charolais cross-breed for beef production.

As a tourist resort Guernsey has grown steadily in popularity since World War II, but the authorities have been watchful to see that the island does not become too commercialised. Under the 1948 Tourist Law all hotels and guest houses — and nowadays self-catering units — have to be officially registered and are inspected and graded annually. Guernsey was pioneer of hotel grading in the British Isles and the policy has helped to develop tourism into a £9 million a year industry.

Guernsey's favourable tax climate has attracted many well-to-do settlers (known locally as rentiers), who have benefited the community by bringin4 money into the island. An important step to encourage more settlers was taken in 1961, when the States sold Fort George — a 54-acre former UK War Department property to the south of St. Peter Port — for development as a "millionaires' estate.

Partly to serve the rentier community, and partly because of rising taxation in other countries leading merchant banks began to move into Guernsey during the 1960s and have made the island an important offshore finance centre.

Guernsey's largest manufacturing industry is run by an American company, Tektronix, who set up plant here in 1958 and now employ over 400 people. The firm makes electronic measuring equipment which is exported to European and Commonwealth markets. The main factory is just north of the airport.

The island has several other small light industries that contribute usefully to its prosperity, but it is generally agreed that the economy still needs to be broadened.

Stamps and all that

TWO everyday items which tell a traveller he is abroad are the island's postage stamps and its distinctive currency.

For nearly three hundred years mail carrying it the Bailiwick, and to and from the UK, was ; protected monopoly of the British GPO and it predecessors. Until October 1st. 1969, when both Jersey and Guernsey governments became responsible, for their own postal systems, there were no Channel Islands postage stamps as such.

However, there are philatelists who will argil that the Channel Islands Occupation stamps — issue( when supplies of GPO stamps ran out — were in fact the islands' very first "own" stamps.

But true postal independence came on October 1st. 1969 when the former British GPO was turned into a public Corporation. A pledge was also give] that eventually the UK would hand over to the island responsibility for their own trunk telephone link with the mainland. They had already been running their own local telephone services for some decades.

Guernsey has issued two sets of definitive postage stamps. The first — in old "sterling" denominations — came out on takeover day 1969 and the decimal value replacements — new stamps, not overprints — were issued in time for D-day, February 1971.

Each year the island has issued up to three sets of "special" stamps which are valid for exactly one year from the date of issue. So far they have commemorated, among other things, the Liberation, Thomas de la Rue — the famous Guernsey born printer — agriculture and horticulture, local churches and old mail packet ships.

So great has been the interest from philatelists in Guernsey stamps that a specially built Philatelic Bureau in Smith Street, St. Peter Port, deals with thousands of orders each year from collectors all over the world.

Guernsey notes and coins date back much further than stamps but numismatists will be extremely lucky to find any but the current denominations in circulation. The coins are in the following values —50p, 10p, 5p, 2p, 1p, and 1/2p. Guernsey also produces £5 and £1 notes. Ten shilling notes were discontinued because they wore out so quickly.

One of the finest coins ever produced by the island was a four cornered 10/- issued in 1966 to commemorate the island's 900 years of association with the British Crown. Examples are hard to come by these days although many dealers have some stocks.

Another sign of domestic independence is the island government's lottery.

Profits have been pledged to a project which would please islanders and visitors alike. A multi-purpose recreation centre for wet weather and all-year-round use is envisaged.

Every lottery draw is open to the public and each 50p ticket has two chances of winning a prize. It could be as much as £10,000 in a periodic "Snowball Draw" as well as one of many lesser cash prizes in the more frequent "ordinary" draws.

Looking around Guernsey 1972 – Part 2

Looking around Guernsey 1972 – Part 2

How Guernsey is governed

[This has changed considerably. The States of Deliberation now consists all of Deputies, all elected on an Island wide vote, plus two representatives from Alderney]

WE HAVE already explained that Guernsey is self-governing, and has enjoyed a very real degree of independence ever since it became associated with England through William, Duke of Normandy. This is why it has developed laws and customs over the centuries that are different from the United Kingdom.

Her Majesty's Government, however, is responsible for the island's external affairs — although not Her Majesty's Government, however, is responsible for the island's external affairs — although not without first consulting Guernsey's government

The island parliament is, called the States of Deliberation, usually referred to simply as "the States". Although the majority of its members are elected by popular vote, the States has a constitution different from that of the House of Commons: Members of the States are elected in four main ways, as follows:-

1. Twelve conseillers, who are elected by an electoral college called the States of Election, which is composed of the Bailiff, who is President; twelve Jurats, twelve Conseillers, the Rectors of the ten parishes, Her Majesty's Procureur, Her Majesty's Comptroller, thirty-three People's Deputies, thirty-four Douzaine Representatives and four Alderney Representatives.

2. Thirty-three deputies who are elected by persons of full age (20 years) who are not subject to any legal disability.

3. Ten douzaine representatives elected from among their own members by the douzaines (or parish councils).

4. Two representatives of the States of Alderney.

Then, in addition, there are the Law Officers of the Crown H.M. Procureur (Attorney-General) and H.M. Comptroller (Solicitor-General), who are members of the States and can take part in debate but have no vote.

Presiding over the assembly, and with a casting vote, is the Bailiff, who is also civil head of the island appointed by the Crown, but whose traditional duty is to speak for the island and represent the views of the insular authorities to the Crown. The Bailiff also presides over the Royal Court, and for that reason is now invariably a lawyer by profession.

The Lieutenant-Governor of Guernsey is the Queen's appointed representative in the island, and .takes no part in civil or legal administration.

The work of the States is handled by a number of Committees set up to deal with various fields such as Housing, Finance, Health and Island Development. Some conseillers and deputies may serve on three or four of these Committees, and are responsible to the States for their administration. In addition, the Committees are served by a permanent civil service. 

The States meet on the last Wednesday of every month except August. An agenda in book form, called a Billet d'Etat, is circulated to each member about ten days before the meeting. The Billet that excites the most public interest is the annual one that outlines the budget proposals for the coming year. Taxes and duties are levied by the States, and these differ considerably from those in the United Kingdom, as the visitor will find to his pleasure.

There is no purchase tax in Guernsey; liquor, petrol and tobacco duties are much lower than in the United Kingdom; there are no surtax, capital gains tax or death duties, and income tax is much less than the British rate:

If there is a meeting of the States while you are in Guernsey, you can go along and listen to the debate from the public gallery. The formalities and voting, carried out in French, underline the Norman origin of the island. The debate, of course, is in English

Justice of the Royal Court

PEOPLE who fall fold of the law in Guernsey (serious crime is comparatively rare) appear before the Royal Court unless their offence is trivial — like a motoring offence — in which case they will be dealt with by the Magistrate's Court in a smaller court-room in the same building. The Royal Court is concerned not only with the trial of criminal offences, but also with civil actions involving legal disputes with citizens.

In both criminal and civil cases those involved can take their cases for retrial, on certain grounds, to local Courts of Appeal.

The President of the Royal Court is the Bailiff, the head of the island's judiciary. There is no jury system in Guernsey; instead, there are 12 Jurats who now constitute, in effect, a permanent jury. Jurats are elected by the States of Election, and election as a Jurat is one of the highest honours Guernsey can confer on her sons [now daughters as well!]. Jurats used to be elected for life, but nowadays there is an age limit, of 75.

Looking around Guernsey 1972 – Part 1

Looking around Guernsey 1972 – Part 1

What makes Guernsey different?

TO MANY UK visitors, the pleasant feeling of being both "abroad" and "at home" is one of the attractions of Guernsey.

They come to the island by sea or air, but have no passport problems. They can buy low-duty cigarettes, drinks, and luxury goods such as perfume at well below the UK price. Yet everyone speaks English, habits and food are much the same as in the UK, and familiar British chain stores and banks line the main shopping centres of St. Peter Port and St. Sampson's.

Nevertheless, Guernsey is "different" in many ways, and visitors often find these differences both fascinating and puzzling. Like the rest of the Channel Islands, Guernsey is part of the British Isles, but unlike Scotland, Wales and Northern Ireland, not part of the United Kingdom.

Guernsey has its own government, makes its own laws, fixes its own taxes — and has no representatives in the UK parliament at Westminster. The basis of Guernsey's Constitution is its chosen loyalty to the English Crown. In return, it has been allowed for centuries to go its own way but to export freely into England — and later into the United Kingdom.

 

The Bailiwick of Guernsey includes the smaller Channel Islands of Sark, Alderney, Herm and Jethou, which all acknowledge the Bailiff of Guernsey as their civil head and chief of justice.

As you will see on page 29, however, where these islands are described, they are independent of Guernsey in varying degrees, standing in something of the same sort of relationship to this island as Guernsey stands to England.

According to the 1971 census the island's population then was over 51,000 — and over 35,000 residents were Guernsey-born. Population of the Bailiwick as a whole was over 53,000.

One of the differences here that visitors spot quickly is that street names are in French as well as English. This is because Guernsey was originally Norman-French. Many older islanders are bi-lingual and still speak the Guernsey-French patois of their ancestry, which can also be traced in hundreds of Guernsey family names.

In following pages of this booklet you can discover more about what makes Guernsey different. We have touched lightly on these subjects, because this has been written for visitors who would like to know more about us.

How Guernsey became British

GEOGRAPHICALLY, Guernsey is much closer to France than to England — lying only 30 miles from the Normandy coast as against 80 miles from Weymouth. But when islanders talk about "the main-land", they mean the United Kingdom, to which they are bound by centuries-old ties of sentiment, economics and politics.

How has this allegiance to England rather than to France, the island's closer powerful neighbour, come about?

To answer this question, we have to go back to 1066, when William, Duke of Normandy, landed his conquering army in Sussex and became William I of England. His Duchy of Normandy included the Channel Islands — Les Iles Normandes — and these became part of the combined realm of England and Normandy. A hundred and thirty-eight years later, King John lost most of the Duchy of Normandy, but Guernsey and the other Channel Islands remained loyal to the English Crown.

From that time, the island became a focal point of the strife which was to rage for several hundred years between England and France. The French made many raids on the island and at times established temporary occupation, only to be driven off subsequently by the sturdy islanders, aided by the forces of the English King.

The frequency of these raids led to the mounting of heavy fortifications all round the coast, and the remains of these fortresses can still be seen — silent reminders of Guernsey's stormy history.

During this time, the island developed its own parliamentary institutions and legal system, which survive in modified form today, so that it is really a self-governing, -independent country. Despite the island's long loyalty to the English Crown, it must be remembered that Guernsey's origins are Norman-French, and there are still traces of this early character about its life and people.

The German invasion of the Channel Islands in July 1940 and their occupation for five dreary years by Hitler's troops did more than anything else in Guernsey's history to "anglicise" the island. Thousands of local people were evacuated to the UK, and a generation of children grew up in mainland towns and villages.

Guernseymen are proud of the fact that their fealty to the Crown has been by choice and not by dominion. Indeed, as islanders sometimes good- naturedly point out, Guernsey was part of the land that originally conquered England, so that they can call England their oldest possession.

Our ancient charters  

AT THE top of Smith Street in St. Peter Port is the Royal Court, where the island's parliament meets and where the law courts are held. In one wing of the building is the Greffe or Record Office, and probably the most important documents kept here are the island's old, original charters. The Greffe is open to the public and you can see these treasured documents for yourself.

The charters, renewed on occasion by each succeeding English Sovereign, are the foundation for the special privileges that enable the islanders to fix their own rates of taxation. Further, under the provisions of the Customs and Excise Act, relief from duty on entry into the United Kingdom is granted to such important exports as tomatoes, flowers and cattle.

On a more warlike note, the charters establish that the islanders may not be called upon for military service outside the island except to rescue their sovereign if he is captured by his enemies, or to re¬conquer his kingdom if he is dispossessed of it.

Another interesting document at the Greffe is a copy of the famous Neutrality Bull of Pope Sixtus IV, which was later embodied in the Royal Charters. By the Bull, the Channel Islands "as far as the sight of man goes or the eye of man reaches" was declared a strictly neutral zone.

The Bull was posted for all to read on the cathedrals of Canterbury, London, Salisbury, Nantes, St. Pol de Leon, Treguier and the Church of St. Peter Port. It constituted a very valuable privilege for an island in the favourable trading position of Guernsey, and did not lapse until the reign of William III when privateering became a very popular and highly lucrative occupation.