My history for the next few weeks will come from “The Channel Islands” by Joseph E Morris, B.A., published by London, Adam and Charles Black, 1911. It is fascinating because, firstly, it is a guidebook from 1911, depicting a Jersey before the Great War erupted across Europe, and secondly because it is very much an outsider looking in, and making very personal observations mingled with the history.
Beautiful Britain - Jersey - Part 2
Mont Orgeuil
Mont Orgueil, where we stand, is
not a bad starting-point from which to commence our exploration of Jersey. Happy,
indeed, the visitor who arrives at this little port from France-and the steamer
comes from Carteret in little more than an hour.
Most English tourists, on the other
hand, make Jersey first at St. Helier, which happens to be a town of
considerable dullness, and compares very badly with St. Peter Port, in Guernsey.
Mont Orgueil, however, may be reached
at once from St. Helier by one of the two strange little railways that traverse
the south coast of the island. The traveller should quit the train at the
previous station of Gorey Village, and walk thence across Gorey Common to the
Castle.
This last, placed bravely on its
boss of rugged rock, grows more and more impressive the nearer we approach it. Superb
in situation, and un- usually picturesque, this " hill of pride " has
yet few features of real architectural interest. Parts of it date from about
the end of the twelfth century, and the archeologist, of course, will gather
"sermons" from every stone of it.
But the ordinary sight-seer will
be best delighted with the picturesque approach up long flights of steps past
successive gateways ; with the beautiful views of land and sea to be got from
its towers ; and, best of all, by the general view of the castle itself,
dominating the little harbour that crouches below its walls.
The structure is built of a soft red
granite, that is very pleasant to look on, and not least so in spring, when its
broken walls are beautifully variegated with a thousand brilliantly orange wallflowers.
One is reminded for a moment of the famous verse - A rose-red city, half as old
as time - which is said to have won the
Newdigate prize for Dean Burgon's poem on Petra.
Prynne at Mont Orgueil
Nor so is Mont Orgueil by any
means lacking in tragic “foot-notes" to history. William Prynne had been
condemned to lifelong imprisonment by the Star Chamber in 1634, and to lose
both his ears in the pillory.
Two years previously he had published
his Histriomastix, " a volume of over a thousand pages," in which he
had upheld, with many ancient and modern instances, the immorality of the drama
and of play-acting.
Unfortunately, at about this time
Henrietta Maria had herself taken part in some private theatricals, and a
certain passage in the index, " reflecting on the character of female
actors in general, was construed as an aspersion on the Queen."
For this, and other offences, he
received the savage sentence, which was carried into execution with unrelenting
cruelty. At first he was imprisoned in the Tower ; but three years later (having
in the meanwhile been found guilty of another “seditious libel" and
branded on both cheeks) he was removed, first to Carnarvon Castle, and
afterwards to Mont Orgueil.
With the meeting of the Long
Parliament, in 1640, Prynne was immediately set at liberty. In Jersey he had
occupied an enforced and tedious leisure by indulging a propensity for verse-making.
His “Mount Orgueil, or Divine and Profitable Meditations”, was published in 1641
; and “A Pleasant Purge for a Roman Catholic” in 1642 – “Rhyme," says Mr. C.
H. Firth, in the Dictionary of National Biography, “is the only poetical
characteristic they possess."
A line or two may be quoted from Mount
Orgueil as a sample :
Mount Orgueil Castle is a lofty
pile,
Within the Easterne parts of Jersey
Isle,
Seated upon a Rocke, full large
and high,
Close by the Sea-shore, next to
Normandie.
The poet then goes on to tell us
how this stronghold is sometimes assaulted-but assaulted to no purpose - by sea
and wind, " two boystrous foes":
For why this fort is built upon a
Rocke,
And so by Christs owne verdict
free from shocke
Of floods and winds ; which on it
oft may beate,
Yet never shake it, but themselves
defeate.
The Bandinels and the Carterets
Less than a decade later and the
walls of Mont Orgueil witnessed still blacker tragedy.
The quarrel of the Bandinels and
the Carterets is an ugly page of history that almost recalls in its unrelenting
ferocity some of the worst clan " vendettas " of the Highlands. The
trouble began, apparently, with the action of Sir Philip de Carteret, when
Governor of Jersey, in attempting to deprive David Bandinel - the writer does
not know the rights and wrongs of the quarrel – of part of his tithes as Dean
of the island.
Shortly after this the Civil War
began in England, and the Channel Islands were immediately plunged into internecine
strife. Philip de Carteret was leader of the Royalists, while Bandinel espoused
the cause of the Parliament. The latter at first was triumphant, and Carteret and
his wife, Elizabeth, were respectively besieged by the Parliamentary troops,
the one in Elizabeth Castle, and the other in Mont Orgueil.
Carteret was not quite sixty
years old, but the severities of the siege were too great for him. There were wrongs,
no doubt, on both sides; but the Puritans seem certainly to have acted on
occasion with a surly lack of generosity that goes far to atone for the brutal
persecution by the Royalist party of a man like Prynne.
In 1644, when Colonel Morris was
besieged in Pontefract, we read in the diary of Nathan Drake that "the
enemy basely stayed all wine from coming to the Castle for serving of the
Communion upon Easter Day, although Forbus (their Governor) had graunted
p'tection for the same, and one Browne of Wakefield said if it was for our
damnation we should have it, but not for our Solvation."
Similarly, in Jersey, the Parliamentary
Committee, of whom Dean Bandinel was one, refused the dying Sir Philip the last
consolations of religion, and even (according to some accounts) the presence of
his wife. This, too, after an appeal so piteous as might well have drawn
iron tears down Pluto's cheek,
And made Hell grant what Love did
seek.
Send me Mr. La Cloche, implored
the sick man, “to administer unto me such comforts as are necessary and usual
in these extremities, and that you would permitt my poor wife to come unto me,
to doe me that last duty, as to close my eyes. The Lord forgive you, as I doe forgive
you all."
One is glad to read, however, in the
Dictionary of National Biography, that Lady Carteret was in fact allowed to
visit her husband, though almost at his very last gasp.
" When the flooring of [St.
Ouen's] church was altered 229 years afterwards, the body of Sir Philip
enclosed in a leaden shell was uncovered, when it was found by the late Francis
Le Maistre to be as white as wax, to have suffered very little decay, and to
measure 6 feet 4 inches."
An Attempt at Escape
Presently the "jade Fortune
" changed her favours, and the island was recovered for the King by Sir
George Carteret, nephew and son-in-law to its former Governor. Dean Bandinel
and his son James, the Rector of St. Mary's, were immediately clapped into
prison in Mont Orgueil Castle, in the same cell that had for merly been
occupied by Prynne.
It does not appear that they were
treated harshly, but Sir George was a man of cruel severity, and it may well be
that they dreaded his further resentment.
Anyhow, father and son resolved
on a romantic escape. At about three o'clock in the morning, on the stormy
night of February 10, 1644, they
attempted to lower themselves from the window of their cell by a rope
made of knotted napkins, sheets, and pieces of cord.
" It is improbable that they
had reconnoitred this place in the daytime," says Durell, " for had
they been aware of the great elevation, they would never have made the attempt,
as long as they were in their senses."
Durell wrote in 1837, when the
Tour de Mont (completed by Henry Paulet in 1553) was still in existence for the
whole of its height. This is said to have been 200 feet high, and the place of
imprisonment of the Bandinels was immediately under its battlements. The
building was supposed to be dangerous, and is now pulled down to its basement.
Anyhow, when James Bandinel came
to the bottom of the rope - he was the first to venture on the perilous descent
- he found it was much too short. He allowed himself to drop on the rocks below,
and was seriously hurt by the fall. His father, still less fortunate, was only
halfway down, when the flimsy rope parted in two. He was thus dashed to the
earth from a much greater height than his son, and was found lying there next
morning in a dying condition.
The son, after wrapping his insensible
old father in his cloak, had attempted to make good his own escape. He was
caught, however, a few days later, and conducted back in triumph to his cell. That
same day the gates of Mont Orgueil had been opened to allow his father's body
to be taken to the grave.
David Bandinel was buried in St.
Martin's Churchyard, two miles to the north-west of Mont Orgueil by the
Faldouet road. I have searched for his grave on the east side of the
churchyard, but there seems now to be no memorial, and the hawthorn that once
marked it has vanished. It is said, however, to be in close proximity to the
tombstones of Lucy and Mary Roche Jackson. His wife and son were afterwards
laid by his side.
Mont Orgueil was unsuccessfully
besieged by the French under the leadership of the Duc de Bourbon and the great
Bertrand du Guesclin, Marshal of France (whose splendid tomb may still be seen
in the north chapel of St. Laurent, at Le Puy), in 1374. It was in honour of
this achievement that it received its present name from Thomas, Duke of
Clarence, and brother of Henry V.
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