Guernsey in 1974 – Part 7
This is an extract from Peter Haining’s guide book of 1974, which is as much interest today for the historian as to the tourist, as many of the places and industries described in his book have long vanished. Please do not take it as a current guide.
Bays for bathing – Part 3
Perelle Bay: Perelle is a small, rocky bay which has its natural beauty somewhat marred by the large number of greenhouses which almost creep onto the beach. At the back is a huge £400,000 reservoir which was created by “drowning” a small valley of 7 farmhouses and 600 trees and now supplies Guernsey’s water. As the visitor walks along the bay towards the south he will pass a tiny islet with the remains of an ancient stone building on it. This is Lihou and the ruins are the ruins of a priory. Immediately inland from here perched beside the road is the Dolmen grave of le Catioroc. It was here, say local legends, that Guernsey witches would gather to hold their sabbats. There are other prehistoric remains at Perelle including a 10-foot menhir, Le Crocg, which is worth visiting for its unusual shape. The modern world, however, is represented by the Atlantic Hotel with its strange V-shaped windows. Here, overlooking the bay, an excellent meal from the varied menu can be enjoyed.
This is highly indicative of mid-to-late 20th-century Guernsey. During the peak of the island’s "Growing Industry" (the tomato and flower boom), vast fields of industrial glass greenhouses (vineries) were erected right up to the coastal roads. While many have since been demolished or left derelict as economic focus shifted to finance, remnants of these structures still dot the landscape around Perelle.
This is an extract from Peter Haining’s guide book of 1974, which is as much interest today for the historian as to the tourist, as many of the places and industries described in his book have long vanished. Please do not take it as a current guide.
Bays for bathing – Part 3
Perelle Bay: Perelle is a small, rocky bay which has its natural beauty somewhat marred by the large number of greenhouses which almost creep onto the beach. At the back is a huge £400,000 reservoir which was created by “drowning” a small valley of 7 farmhouses and 600 trees and now supplies Guernsey’s water. As the visitor walks along the bay towards the south he will pass a tiny islet with the remains of an ancient stone building on it. This is Lihou and the ruins are the ruins of a priory. Immediately inland from here perched beside the road is the Dolmen grave of le Catioroc. It was here, say local legends, that Guernsey witches would gather to hold their sabbats. There are other prehistoric remains at Perelle including a 10-foot menhir, Le Crocg, which is worth visiting for its unusual shape. The modern world, however, is represented by the Atlantic Hotel with its strange V-shaped windows. Here, overlooking the bay, an excellent meal from the varied menu can be enjoyed.
This is highly indicative of mid-to-late 20th-century Guernsey. During the peak of the island’s "Growing Industry" (the tomato and flower boom), vast fields of industrial glass greenhouses (vineries) were erected right up to the coastal roads. While many have since been demolished or left derelict as economic focus shifted to finance, remnants of these structures still dot the landscape around Perelle.
In 1974, Guernsey did indeed have its own Atlantic Hotel located right on the west coast overlooking Perelle Bay. The distinctive building featured a bold, mid-century design with striking V-shaped (or zig-zagged) windows angled out toward the sea to maximize the coastal views and spectacular west-coast sunsets. Decades later, the property underwent substantial changes, was completely refurbished, and today operates as the popular Driftwood Inn.
There is a significant geographical mix-up. Le Creux ès Faies (The Fairies' Cave) is a beautifully preserved Neolithic passage grave dating to around 3,000–2,500 BC. However, it is not located at Fort Hommet or Vazon Bay. It sits roughly 5.5 kilometres further south along the coast on the L'Erée headland (overlooking Lihou Island) in the parish of St. Pierre du Bois. Channel Island folklore does indeed claim it was a portal to the subterranean kingdom of the fairies, who would emerge at night to dance on the headlands
In the 1960s and 1970s, The Golden Sands was a well-known local venue situated right on Vazon Bay. Decorating features with the iridescent, pearlescent shells of the ormer (the prized local sea snail) was a popular traditional Guernsey craft. While the name has long since faded from the modern landscape—the site was later known as Perry Nook and today operates as the family-friendly restaurant Crabby Jacks—the building remains an iconic Vazon fixture.
While Vazon Bay is well-served today by modern facilities—including public toilets, large car parks, kiosks, and surf hire facilities—the old-fashioned beach-shop rental of commercial deck chairs and inflatable swim floats has vanished. Modern visitors generally rely on the local surf school for technical gear hire or bring their own beach setups.
Cobo: There is plenty of sand and beach space between the rocks in this bay, with bathing at all times except in a restricted area which is clearly marked. Part of Cobo is actually another little bay, Albecq, which is separated by a dramatic golden-brown rock formation. If the visitor looks closely, he will be able to spot the rock which has been aptly named “Lion Rock’’. At the other end of the bay is Grandes Rocques, a massive, rugged stretch of rocks which provide ideal scrambling for small boys and can be utilised as diving stages. For the less adventurous there is plenty of sand as the tide retreats. They bay is particularly well equipped with tea rooms and restaurants. For the beachcombers, Cobo provides many little pools at low tide where sea anemones, sponges and corallines can be found.
Port Soif, Portinfer, Port Grat: Three small bays which can be recommended for those seeking solitude—but Port Soif is the only one with a really extensive area of sand. This bay is, best at high tide when the rocks provide opportunities for diving. It is possible to surf at Portinfer when the tide is low, but bathing of any kind is not advisable here when the sea starts to recede. Port Grat has interesting pools for children at low tide. Facilities for refreshments are not very plentiful and a picnic is often the best answer.
This is exceptionally sharp advice that matches modern safety guidelines. Portinfer is recognized as one of Guernsey's most prominent, punchy reef/beach surf breaks. However, the bay is choked with sharp, unforgiving rocks. Surfing and swimming at low tide or on a rapidly receding ebbing tide is highly discouraged for casual beachgoers due to the exposure of these jagged rocks and strong, deceptive undercurrents.
This was highly accurate for the era the text was written and remains fair advice today, though amenities have improved slightly. Port Grat still has no commercial kiosks on its actual shore (the nearest public toilets and snacks are around the headland at Rousse). Portinfer is also wild and undeveloped. However, Port Soif now features a well-established beach kiosk (Surfside at Port Soif) and public toilet blocks, meaning visitors no longer have to completely rely on a picnic packed from home.
Grand Havre: Grand Havre is carved out of the coastline of Guernsey like a huge U and can satisfy practically every wish of the holidaymaker. There are large areas of sand where bathing is safe and the small harbour provides good fishing facilities. Here, if you’re lucky, you will see the local fishermen setting out with their lobster pots, or returning with the catch, which soon finds its way into the nearby restaurants. For the holidaymaker who is not happy until he has seen some ancient remains, Grand Havre has much to offer in the way of dolmens and menhirs. There are also wide expanses of open land for the hiker, and it is said that the air in the Clos du Valle is the most bracing on Guernsey. Adjoining Grand Havre is the attractive sandy beach at Pembroke which is good for bathing and has all the usual facilities for refreshment and the hiring of deck chairs and floats.
Le Clos du Valle is the northern peninsula of the island. Historically, it was a separate tidal island cut off from the rest of Guernsey by a salt marsh channel known as the Braye du Valle. In 1806, the British government drained and dammed the channel for military defense, permanently connecting the two landmasses. The area features ancient megalithic remains (such as the nearby Les Fouaillages and Dehus Dolmen), and being a flat, exposed northern headland, it has traditionally been celebrated in local lore for its fresh, "bracing" maritime air.
Grand Havre: Grand Havre is carved out of the coastline of Guernsey like a huge U and can satisfy practically every wish of the holidaymaker. There are large areas of sand where bathing is safe and the small harbour provides good fishing facilities. Here, if you’re lucky, you will see the local fishermen setting out with their lobster pots, or returning with the catch, which soon finds its way into the nearby restaurants. For the holidaymaker who is not happy until he has seen some ancient remains, Grand Havre has much to offer in the way of dolmens and menhirs. There are also wide expanses of open land for the hiker, and it is said that the air in the Clos du Valle is the most bracing on Guernsey. Adjoining Grand Havre is the attractive sandy beach at Pembroke which is good for bathing and has all the usual facilities for refreshment and the hiring of deck chairs and floats.
Le Clos du Valle is the northern peninsula of the island. Historically, it was a separate tidal island cut off from the rest of Guernsey by a salt marsh channel known as the Braye du Valle. In 1806, the British government drained and dammed the channel for military defense, permanently connecting the two landmasses. The area features ancient megalithic remains (such as the nearby Les Fouaillages and Dehus Dolmen), and being a flat, exposed northern headland, it has traditionally been celebrated in local lore for its fresh, "bracing" maritime air.
Geographically, Pembroke Bay curves around the northernmost tip of the island, right next to Grand Havre. It is widely considered one of Guernsey’s finest expanses of white sand. Refreshment facilities are excellent today, featuring The Beach House cafe and the Pembroke Slipway Kiosk. However, traditional beach hire for vintage canvas deck chairs and inflatable rubber floats has changed. Instead, modern visitors can hire active watersports gear like kayaks and stand-up paddleboards through local providers like Outdoor Guernsey
L’Ancresse Bay: Like its neighbour, Grand Havre, L’Ancresse has much to offer all the family. On the sandy common just behind the bay is an 18-hole golf course for father, while mother and the children can settle down on the large sandy beach for a day of sun-bathing or swimming. There is a most attractive little anchorage which has been created by the piling up of stone and this is much used by small pleasure craft. The best restaurant here is at the Pembroke Hotel which apart from supplying meals at a reasonable price (it even has an extensive wine list) also has a “Ply Park” with swings and slides for the very young and a nine-hole crazy golf course for their elder brothers and sisters. It is also worth crossing the road from here to see the aviary full of tropical birds which is situated in the grounds of L’Ancresse Lodge Hotel. L’Ancresse Bay was, by tradition, the place where Duke Robert (father of William Conqueror) first introduced the famous Guernsey breed of cattle to the island. Whether this story is true or not, the cattle can still be seen today grazing on the common.
This is an excellent piece of mid-to-late 20th-century nostalgia. Decades ago, the Pembroke Hotel stood near the beach and served as a major social hub for families, complete with an outdoor play area and a miniature crazy golf course. Today, the hotel no longer exists in that form; the beachfront footprint is anchored by modern eateries like The Beach House restaurant and kiosk. For family crazy golf today, visitors head inland to locations like Oatlands Village.
L’Ancresse Bay: Like its neighbour, Grand Havre, L’Ancresse has much to offer all the family. On the sandy common just behind the bay is an 18-hole golf course for father, while mother and the children can settle down on the large sandy beach for a day of sun-bathing or swimming. There is a most attractive little anchorage which has been created by the piling up of stone and this is much used by small pleasure craft. The best restaurant here is at the Pembroke Hotel which apart from supplying meals at a reasonable price (it even has an extensive wine list) also has a “Ply Park” with swings and slides for the very young and a nine-hole crazy golf course for their elder brothers and sisters. It is also worth crossing the road from here to see the aviary full of tropical birds which is situated in the grounds of L’Ancresse Lodge Hotel. L’Ancresse Bay was, by tradition, the place where Duke Robert (father of William Conqueror) first introduced the famous Guernsey breed of cattle to the island. Whether this story is true or not, the cattle can still be seen today grazing on the common.
This is an excellent piece of mid-to-late 20th-century nostalgia. Decades ago, the Pembroke Hotel stood near the beach and served as a major social hub for families, complete with an outdoor play area and a miniature crazy golf course. Today, the hotel no longer exists in that form; the beachfront footprint is anchored by modern eateries like The Beach House restaurant and kiosk. For family crazy golf today, visitors head inland to locations like Oatlands Village.
This perfectly dates the text to the peak of Guernsey's post-war tourism boom. In the 1960s and 1970s, L'Ancresse Lodge (later operating as the L'Ancresse Bay Hotel) was a highly popular resort hotel that drew visitors with unique features like its exotic bird aviary and regular ballroom dances. The hotel eventually closed its doors, and the building was successfully converted into private residential apartments (renamed L'Ancresse Lodge apartments). The tropical aviary is long gone.
Bordeaux: There is a lot about this bay which is as French as its name. The harbour is small and picturesque and it is here that the visitor will find the Guernsey fisherman in his most natural environment and at his ease. Bordeaux’s great claim to fame lies in its connection with the island’s famous exiled French author, Victor Hugo. For it is the setting of much of his great work, The Toilers of the Sea. If you have read the book, the words become doubly alive after spending an hour or two in the bay. Just a few yards off the shore is a tiny islet, Houmet Paradis, which can be reached at low tide and is a delightful spot to sit and contemplate the beauty of the coastline. The road from Bordeaux to St. Sampson is particularly attractive and on the way passes yet another old 18th Century fortress, Vale Castle. The rocky pools which are left by the tide in this area, incidentally, are worth studying for the rare zoophyte specimens which can be found in them.
Geographically exact. Houmet Paradis sits just off the coast of Bordeaux and is fully accessible on foot via the seabed at low tide. However, modern travelers need to know that it is now a protected nature reserve under the stewardship of The National Trust of Guernsey. To protect ground-nesting birds, landing on the islet is strictly prohibited between April and July each year.
This is historically inaccurate. While the road itself does connect the two areas and pass Vale Castle, the castle is far older than the 18th century. Archaeological evidence traces the site back to an Iron Age hillfort (500–600 BC), and the stone medieval castle structure seen today was built between 1370 and 1400.
L’Eree: There are several quite extensive areas of sand in this sheltered area which is suitable for bathing at any time of the day.' From the headland is a causeway which leads to Lihou Island, ““The Holy Island”’, which is mentioned in a special section of its own. The most impressive sight here is Fort Saumarez, a low, compact fortress which nestles on a slight hill. The fort is named after Lord de Saumarez, an Admiral in the British Navy, who established a record in naval history: he fought a battle in sight of his own home. The engagement, against the French, took place not far from the fort and because of Lord de Saumarez’s knowledge of the treacherous, rocky water, ended in an English victory. During the occupation the Germans strengthened the fort considerably, turning the tower into a look-out point and honeycombing the ground with tunnels. These are still visible today and the tower can be climbed. The area is particularly rich in history— not far from the fort, for instance, is a large flat area of land where an aerodrome was going to be established before the war. There are also, on the dunes which separate this area from the sea, the ruins of a plant which was built at the beginning of this century to try and extract gold from sea water. The cottages which stand not far away from here were believed to have been a witches ‘colony many years ago, and the few tenants who still live in them delight in telling blood-curdling stories, mostly pure imagination, to gullible visitors!
Structurally accurate, but modern access rules have changed. Between 1940 and 1945, German forces heavily fortified the headland, constructing a massive, four-story concrete Marine Peilstand (artillery observation tower) right on top of the old British stone structure. Concrete bunkers and trenches still surround the base. However, for safety and structural preservation, the interior of the concrete tower is locked to the public and cannot be climbed on a standard visit, though the exterior remains an imposing landmark.
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