Looking around Guernsey 1972 – Part 6
Walking by the sea
GUERNSEY'S most spectacular attraction is probably the unspoilt cliff paths that run from Havelet Bay all the way to Pleinmont. Thousands of visitors, and Guernsey people, too, can enjoy a pleasure that is hard to rival anywhere in the British Isles — of walking for miles by the sea, undisturbed by traffic, with unfolding views before them of magnificent coastal scenery.
Since 1927 the policy of the Guernsey authorities has been to preserve these beautiful stretches of open country, and nowadays houses or hotels are no longer allowed to be built along the cliffs.
The Cliffs of the South
Visitors who return to Guernsey year after year often have their favourite section of cliff paths. Many would agree that the southern strip is the loveliest part of all. Lofty, majestic cliffs, steep wooded valleys running right down to the sea, shady leafy lanes —all nature's beauty seems crystallised in this small area. The sea views from the south are unsurpassed, for the land rises steeply from the foreshore to heights of over 300 ft.
The motorist has the choice of several good roads that will take him out of town to these uplands, but if you want to walk you can follow the cliff paths from the bathing pools at La Vallette and enjoy an almost fairyland walk. Just past the bathing pools, by the steps leading to Fort George, and the start of these cliff paths, is the Guernsey Aquarium. Here, in the picturesque setting of a converted German tunnel, are many tanks of curious and colourful local fish. [This is now closed]
On the boundaries of St. Peter Port and St. Martin's is Fermain. The slopes above Fermain are thickly wooded and the natural beauty of the bay, combined with its proximity to St. Peter Port, make it one of the favourite holiday spots in Guernsey. A summer attraction at the bay is the passenger launches that run between Fermain and St. Peter Port.
Immediately south of Fermain Bay pleasant and picturesque cliff walks will take you to the fisherman's harbour of Bec du Nez, Marble Bay and Divette.
The glorious cliff scenery of this part of Guernsey, with grass and furze covering the rocks and softening their harsh blackness is typical of the southern coast. Perhaps some of the finest scenery is to be found in this south-east corner of the island, in the peninsula known as Jerbourg. Visit St. Martin's Point, and look across Telegraph Bay to the famous line of rocks called the peastacks. From here, a charming lane follows the crest of the cliffs, and then runs inland to the Doyle Monument.
The original monument was erected in memory of Sir John Doyle, Governor of Guernsey at the beginning of the nineteenth century. It was demolished by the Germans, and the present monument was built to replace it in 1953. An enchanting panorama unfolds at this point; it includes the whole of the East Coast and the full sweep of Moulin Huet Bay to Icart Point.
A little way from the Doyle Monument there's a path leading to Petit Port, one of Guernsey's most popular bays. Although the steps down to the beach seem unending, Petit Port is perfect for bathing, and a popular spot for surf bathing, too. Next to Petit Port is Moulin Huet, easier to get to, and therefore more crowded.
Saints Bay, the next along the coast, is another fine spot for bathing, and the little fishermen's harbour nearby is a paradise for keen swimmers. On the far side of Saints Bay is Icart Point, which gives a fine view of cliffs and bays in either direction. Looking west, you can see La Bette, Jaonnet, Petit Bat and Portelet, and away in the distance, La Moye Point.
The twin bays of Jaonnet and La Bette are delightful, with their golden sand and lofty caverns. They're not so easy to reach as some of the other bays, and for this reason few people visit them — but perhaps this is part of their charm. Petit Bet, next along the coast, makes quite a contrast. This tiny bay is very popular, and the winding roads approaching it give tantalising glimpses of the golden sand and azure sea as they wend their way downward through the woods.
Adjoining Petit Bot is Portelet, the last sandy bay on this beautiful south coast. You will find it less frequented than Petitbot, where the road runs right down to the bay.
Now the contours of the coast take a wilder turn, beyond Le Gouffre where the seething waves boil unceasingly on the rocks. Next comes Corbière Point, then the Havre de Bon Repos, a little bay where at the east end you will find Venus's Pool. The receding tide leaves this hollow in the rocks filled with clear warm water that is grand for bathing.
The last place of interest along the beautiful south coast is Creux Mahie, the largest cave in Guernsey, and an eternal lure to intrepid explorers. The mouth of the cave is above high water mark, so you're quite safe.
A little way from the Doyle Monument there's a path leading to Petit Port, one of Guernsey's most popular bays. Although the steps down to the beach seem unending, Petit Port is perfect for bathing, and a popular spot for surf bathing, too. Next to Petit Port is Moulin Huet, easier to get to, and therefore more crowded.
Saints Bay, the next along the coast, is another fine spot for bathing, and the little fishermen's harbour nearby is a paradise for keen swimmers. On the far side of Saints Bay is Icart Point, which gives a fine view of cliffs and bays in either direction. Looking west, you can see La Bette, Jaonnet, Petit Bat and Portelet, and away in the distance, La Moye Point.
The twin bays of Jaonnet and La Bette are delightful, with their golden sand and lofty caverns. They're not so easy to reach as some of the other bays, and for this reason few people visit them — but perhaps this is part of their charm. Petit Bet, next along the coast, makes quite a contrast. This tiny bay is very popular, and the winding roads approaching it give tantalising glimpses of the golden sand and azure sea as they wend their way downward through the woods.
Adjoining Petit Bot is Portelet, the last sandy bay on this beautiful south coast. You will find it less frequented than Petitbot, where the road runs right down to the bay.
Now the contours of the coast take a wilder turn, beyond Le Gouffre where the seething waves boil unceasingly on the rocks. Next comes Corbière Point, then the Havre de Bon Repos, a little bay where at the east end you will find Venus's Pool. The receding tide leaves this hollow in the rocks filled with clear warm water that is grand for bathing.
The last place of interest along the beautiful south coast is Creux Mahie, the largest cave in Guernsey, and an eternal lure to intrepid explorers. The mouth of the cave is above high water mark, so you're quite safe.
And so you've come to Pleinmont, where the scenery changes to the broad bays of the west. You can spend days rambling through the paths which honeycomb the southern cliffs, never once retracing your footsteps. And you'll understand Guernsey's claim to a beauty that has no parallel in the British Isles.
The West Coast
IT IS a constant delight to visitors to Guernsey that they only have to go a few miles to experience changes of scenery which, in bigger countries, would only be seen in hundreds of miles of travel. Down the west coast, the shore curves gracefully in and out in a series of wide, sweeping bays, showing — at low tide .— a broad expanse of sand, and punctuated by rocks and fortresses, headlands waiting to be explored.
One of the great advantages of these bays is that they are right next to the main road which runs along just behind them. For this reason, perhaps they're best for children, especially as the bathing is safe and shallow.
The hinterland of the west coast is a broad plain, protected against encroachment by the sea by a strongly built wall. At each bay, you'll notice a slipway, which often extends as a paved or cobbled path for some distance across the beach. These paths were built for the gatherers of seaweed, so that they could bring their horse-drawn carts right down on the beach.
Seaweed gathering used to be a widespread occupation of the islanders. The old horse-drawn vraic (seaweed) carts have disappeared from the scene, however, and motor lorries are used to gather it now.
During the 19th century the manufacture of iodine was carried on, and until recently there were still traces of the industry on Lihou Island. This island is a place of wild and rugged beauty, where you will see the remains of a priory and some very fine rock pools.
Facing Lihou is Fort Saumarez, a tall Martello tower — relic of the Napoleonic wars. In striking contrast is the concrete addition built by the Germans.
There is little to choose between the west coast bays for sheer holiday-making delight. Vazon, Cobo and a host of smaller bays all have their faithful band of devotees. All offer gloriously safe bathing, and sun-bathing on fine, sandy beaches.
South of Perelle Bay — still very much local fishermen's bay — is L'Eree Bay culminating in L'Eree headland from which you walk across to Lihou. Then on south again, till you come to a vast curve of shore which encloses Rocquaine Bay, largest bay in Guernsey. Across the wide sweep of Rocquaine Bay, tucked into its southernmost wing, is Portelet, a little harbour formed by a small bay. With its sandy beach sloping gently seawards, Portelet is another paradise for children.
Now you're at the south-west corner of Guernsey, at the tip of land called Pleinmont Point. The scenery here is wild and romantic, the land giving place to the sea at rugged precipitous cliffs. This untamed region is well worth a visit. There's a ruined castle called Pezerie, whose history is lost in the mist of antiquity. The high ground almost opposite gives a good view of this fort, which is built in the shape of a star.
The West Coast
IT IS a constant delight to visitors to Guernsey that they only have to go a few miles to experience changes of scenery which, in bigger countries, would only be seen in hundreds of miles of travel. Down the west coast, the shore curves gracefully in and out in a series of wide, sweeping bays, showing — at low tide .— a broad expanse of sand, and punctuated by rocks and fortresses, headlands waiting to be explored.
One of the great advantages of these bays is that they are right next to the main road which runs along just behind them. For this reason, perhaps they're best for children, especially as the bathing is safe and shallow.
The hinterland of the west coast is a broad plain, protected against encroachment by the sea by a strongly built wall. At each bay, you'll notice a slipway, which often extends as a paved or cobbled path for some distance across the beach. These paths were built for the gatherers of seaweed, so that they could bring their horse-drawn carts right down on the beach.
Seaweed gathering used to be a widespread occupation of the islanders. The old horse-drawn vraic (seaweed) carts have disappeared from the scene, however, and motor lorries are used to gather it now.
During the 19th century the manufacture of iodine was carried on, and until recently there were still traces of the industry on Lihou Island. This island is a place of wild and rugged beauty, where you will see the remains of a priory and some very fine rock pools.
Facing Lihou is Fort Saumarez, a tall Martello tower — relic of the Napoleonic wars. In striking contrast is the concrete addition built by the Germans.
There is little to choose between the west coast bays for sheer holiday-making delight. Vazon, Cobo and a host of smaller bays all have their faithful band of devotees. All offer gloriously safe bathing, and sun-bathing on fine, sandy beaches.
South of Perelle Bay — still very much local fishermen's bay — is L'Eree Bay culminating in L'Eree headland from which you walk across to Lihou. Then on south again, till you come to a vast curve of shore which encloses Rocquaine Bay, largest bay in Guernsey. Across the wide sweep of Rocquaine Bay, tucked into its southernmost wing, is Portelet, a little harbour formed by a small bay. With its sandy beach sloping gently seawards, Portelet is another paradise for children.
Now you're at the south-west corner of Guernsey, at the tip of land called Pleinmont Point. The scenery here is wild and romantic, the land giving place to the sea at rugged precipitous cliffs. This untamed region is well worth a visit. There's a ruined castle called Pezerie, whose history is lost in the mist of antiquity. The high ground almost opposite gives a good view of this fort, which is built in the shape of a star.
Looking westwards you can make out a line of reefs called Les Hanois which has been the grave of many a gallant ship. In 1862 the Hanois Lighthouse was built, and its revolving beam throws a warning to mariners up to 12 miles distant of the deadly welcome that awaits them on the Hanois.
At the foot of the cliff at Pleinmont Point there is a curious circle of stones with a concentric trench. Probably of prehistoric origin, this is called Le Table des Pions — the footman's table.
YOU can choose any one of a number of roads back to Town from Pleinmont, all full of interest and scenic beauty.
Near the Town Arsenal stands the red granite pile of Victoria Tower, built in commemoration of the visit of Queen Victoria and the Prince Consort to Guernsey in 1846. Built to a height of 100 ft. with the top over 300 ft. above sea level, Victoria Tower provides a fine vantage point from which to view the town and the surrounding islands.
At the bottom of the Grange is Elizabeth College, Guernsey's only public school. It was founded in 1563 by Queen Elizabeth I.
North from Town
TRAVELLING northwards from St. Peter Port, you'll come shortly to thriving St. Sampson's. A prosperous shipbuilding port in the hey-day of the wooden sailing ship, St. Sampson's later became the loading point for shiploads of granite from the once flourishing Guernsey quarries. The harbour itself is a fine example of Guernsey craftsmanship in the native stone. In recent years; the local granite industry has revived a little, and you will have noticed the grey-blue stone much in evidence in buildings around the island.
St. Sampson's is the nearest Guernsey has to an industrial area. Here, there is the only ship repair yard in the Channel Islands; the island's electricity power-house; the sea-water distillation plant; and the Guernsey Tomato Marketing Board's packing station. But St. Sampson's has also developed as an attractive, flourishing shopping centre, and gives visitors the impression of a bustling village community, busy about its daily affairs.
Travelling northwards again, the next place we come to is Bordeaux, a fishing haven in a tiny bay.
At the foot of the cliff at Pleinmont Point there is a curious circle of stones with a concentric trench. Probably of prehistoric origin, this is called Le Table des Pions — the footman's table.
YOU can choose any one of a number of roads back to Town from Pleinmont, all full of interest and scenic beauty.
Near the Town Arsenal stands the red granite pile of Victoria Tower, built in commemoration of the visit of Queen Victoria and the Prince Consort to Guernsey in 1846. Built to a height of 100 ft. with the top over 300 ft. above sea level, Victoria Tower provides a fine vantage point from which to view the town and the surrounding islands.
At the bottom of the Grange is Elizabeth College, Guernsey's only public school. It was founded in 1563 by Queen Elizabeth I.
North from Town
TRAVELLING northwards from St. Peter Port, you'll come shortly to thriving St. Sampson's. A prosperous shipbuilding port in the hey-day of the wooden sailing ship, St. Sampson's later became the loading point for shiploads of granite from the once flourishing Guernsey quarries. The harbour itself is a fine example of Guernsey craftsmanship in the native stone. In recent years; the local granite industry has revived a little, and you will have noticed the grey-blue stone much in evidence in buildings around the island.
St. Sampson's is the nearest Guernsey has to an industrial area. Here, there is the only ship repair yard in the Channel Islands; the island's electricity power-house; the sea-water distillation plant; and the Guernsey Tomato Marketing Board's packing station. But St. Sampson's has also developed as an attractive, flourishing shopping centre, and gives visitors the impression of a bustling village community, busy about its daily affairs.
Travelling northwards again, the next place we come to is Bordeaux, a fishing haven in a tiny bay.
Farther on, at the northern tip of the island is L'Ancresse Bay — a lovely wide stretch of sand. Behind the bay lies L'Ancresse Common, another pleasure spot like the bay itself for tourists and local people alike. Peppered with Martello towers like chessmen on a giant board, the common is the site of the Guernsey golf course.
Beyond L'Ancresse Bay (also known as Pembroke Bay) is the rugged headland of Chouet, which in turn gives place to the inlet of Grand Havre. Running alongside the golf course here is Ladies Bay, an attractive sandy beach that seldom becomes really crowded.
Beyond L'Ancresse Bay (also known as Pembroke Bay) is the rugged headland of Chouet, which in turn gives place to the inlet of Grand Havre. Running alongside the golf course here is Ladies Bay, an attractive sandy beach that seldom becomes really crowded.
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