Guernsey in 1974 – Part 6

Guernsey in 1974 – Part 6

This is an extract from Peter Haining’s guide book of 1974, which is as much interest today for the historian as to the tourist, as many of the places and industries described in his book have long vanished. Please do not take it as a current guide.

Bays for bathing – Part 2

Petit Bot: A very popular and picturesque beach which has two beautiful, wooded valleys converging almost on its beach. There are three actual roads to the shore which provide a variety of views, but for those in a hurry there is a Mini-bus service from the main bus route. The beach is pebbly at full tide, but as this recedes sandy areas are revealed. Bathing is excellent. The main “‘sight”’ in the area is on the Route de la Fallaise—an old farmhouse whose occupiers had the job of keeping watch for the approach of pirates. On the shore is a tearoom, the Old Mill and floats and deck chairs for hire. For the explorer there is the unusually shaped cavern known as “Dog Cave”.

Today, standard vehicular access is essentially via narrow, winding lanes descending into the valley. To manage traffic in the summer, the main descent route operates on a strict one-way system. Furthermore, there is no dedicated mini-bus service to the shore. Visitors using public transit must take standard Guernsey bus routes (such as routes 91, 92, 93, 94, or 95), exit at the main road stop at La Bourg or near the Forest Stores, and walk approximately 1.5 km down the steep hill to the beach.

The Petit Bôt Tea Room still operates right by the slipway and serves as a popular stop for drinks, ice cream, and light lunches. It occupies a building with deep historic roots as a former mill (remnants of the old stream and waterwheel structure can still be seen nearby). However, commercial hires for beach floats and deck chairs are no longer standard operational facilities on the shore; modern visitors generally bring their own gear or rent paddleboards/kayaks during peak summer operations.

Portelet: This is a typical fisherman’s harbour, but it also has a stretch of sand which provides good bathing for all including the very young. The rocks in the cove are ideal for the pool fisherman. The harbour itself is not very old and has never been much used except by a few small boats and by seamen seeking that Channel Island delicacy, the ormer. The Hanois Lighthouse on Petit Hanois is just round the coast from Portelet and when erected in 1862 prevented many ships from going to their doom—as they had in the past—on the treacherous rocks around Pleinmont Point. Among those who praised the building of the lighthouse was Victor Hugo who mentions it at some length in Toilers of the Sea.

This is completely true. During his 15-year exile on Guernsey, Victor Hugo was a passionate campaigner for social and maritime safety. He publicly advocated for the construction of Les Hanois Lighthouse to stop the frequent shipwrecks. He heavily featured the lighthouse, Pleinmont, and the treacherous reefs in his 1866 novel Toilers of the Sea (Les Travailleurs de la mer), even using the Hanois rocks as a focal setting for a deliberate shipwreck plot point in the book.

Rocquaine Bay: A wide sweep of bay liberally scattered with rocks which make bathing only really safe when the tide is in. The road runs along the shore and there are many suitable spots for parking and numerous cafes. Because much of the land is low-lying, dykes have been built and during the winter months these take a tremendous pounding from the westerly gales. Just off Les Paysans Road there is an interesting 12-foot-high pillar of granite called la Longue Roque. It is in fact and ancient menhir and there is a legend that it is frequented by fairies. Until quite recently, the local people burned a Guy at its base every November 5th. Witchcraft is also associated with the bay, and the centre for this was the white tower of Fort Grey which stands on its own lonely promontory. The area is also dotted with gun sites built by the Germans during their occupation.