Guernsey in 1974 – Part 5
This is an extract from Peter Haining’s guide book of 1974, which is as much interest today for the historian as to the tourist, as many of the places and industries described in his book have long vanished. Please do not take it as a current guide.
Bays for bathing – Part 1
Havelet Bay: Havelet adjoins the harbour at St. Peter Port and has the nearest beach to the town—but this, unfortunately, is inaccessible at high tide. The main attraction, however, is the extensive La Vallette Swimming Pool which provides good bathing whatever the state of the tide along the coast. The pool—it is actually three separate pools— protrudes into the sea and this makes the setting doubly attractive. Water polo is also played here. Havelet Bay is ideal for water-skiing and this takes place daily throughout the season. It is also considered a good starting point for hikers along the south coast, and the best route begins at the south end of the bay by the Halfmoon Restaurant— where, incidentally, all manner of information about walking in Guernsey can be obtained. Also in the bay, and not far from La Vallette Swimming Pool, are two smaller pools which are open daily.
The "Halfmoon Restaurant": This no longer exists. The venue at the south end of the bay near the slipway is now home to the Octopus Restaurant (though travellers should note it is temporarily undergoing refurbishment). While Havelet Bay remains a popular destination for local sea swimmers, kayakers, and paddleboarders, daily scheduled water-skiing and regular water polo matches are no longer the primary active attractions advertised for the bay.
Soldier’s Bay: A secluded little nook, reached by a path from Havelet Bay, the shore is pebbly, but bathing in the deep, clear water is a joy to swimmer and non-swimmer alike. The rocks, which jut into the sea are excellent as diving points. ““Soldier’s Bay” earned its name because it was for generations used by the soldiers stationed at what was once Fort George on the cliff top. The fort was built in 1780, but it was not until the German Occupation that it was actually called upon to serve its purpose. However, the shelling which it received from British aircraft in 1944 was so heavy and so costly in human life that it was evacuated immediately afterwards.
"Bathing... is a joy to swimmer and non-swimmer alike": This is no longer true. Following severe coastal subsidence and highly unstable cliff faces above the cove, the States of Guernsey officially closed Soldier's Bay to the public via footpaths. Landslides and rockfalls make accessing it by foot illegal or physically barricaded.
Soldier’s Bay: A secluded little nook, reached by a path from Havelet Bay, the shore is pebbly, but bathing in the deep, clear water is a joy to swimmer and non-swimmer alike. The rocks, which jut into the sea are excellent as diving points. ““Soldier’s Bay” earned its name because it was for generations used by the soldiers stationed at what was once Fort George on the cliff top. The fort was built in 1780, but it was not until the German Occupation that it was actually called upon to serve its purpose. However, the shelling which it received from British aircraft in 1944 was so heavy and so costly in human life that it was evacuated immediately afterwards.
"Bathing... is a joy to swimmer and non-swimmer alike": This is no longer true. Following severe coastal subsidence and highly unstable cliff faces above the cove, the States of Guernsey officially closed Soldier's Bay to the public via footpaths. Landslides and rockfalls make accessing it by foot illegal or physically barricaded.
"It was not until the German Occupation that it was actually called upon to serve its purpose": Historically false. Fort George served actively as a major British military hub for generations long before World War II. For instance, the Royal Guernsey Light Infantry trained heavily at the fort before deploying to the Western Front in 1917 during World War I.
The attacks in June 1944 were targeted Allied air raids specifically designed to destroy the sophisticated Adlerschloss German Luftwaffe radar early warning system built at the fort. The text claims the fort was "evacuated immediately afterwards" due to heavy losses. In reality, the Allied air raids before D-Day were largely ineffective against the heavily fortified structures, and German forces did not evacuate; they successfully held the fort and the rest of Guernsey until the official German surrender on Liberation Day, 9 May 1945.
As of 2026, even if approached by sea, there have been temporary water quality warnings in the bay due to a damaged deep-sea sewage outfall pipe originating from the modern residential development atop Fort George.
Fermain Bay: Undoubtedly one of the most popular bays on the island and always much frequented by families. A boat service runs between here and St. Peter Port which provides some splendid coastal views. There is a pebbly foreshore which gives way to white sand at half tide. The walk to the bay is long, but pleasant, winding through wooded countryside. The half-way mark is Le Chalet Hotel which was the first dwelling on Guernsey to have electric lighting at the beginning of this century. Then it was a private house belonging to a skilled mechanic who harnessed a dynamo to a stream which runs down the valley. Although the bay is now a haven for small boats, it was once considered the ideal place for a raiding party to land. In the 18th Century, for instance, a press gang landed at Fermain, crept inland and made off with several unwilling recruits. There are still one or two German fortifications visible including a white-washed sentry box which now serves as a ship marker and is generally called “The Pepper Pot’. The bay has its own restaurant and toilets, and floats can be hired. Bathing is safe except at high tide when the bank of pebbles make it unsafe for those not experienced. A final interesting point about Fermain is that in the early 1900’s the bay was segregated— women had to go at one end and men at the other. Needless to say this ruling is no longer enforced.
Fermain Bay: Undoubtedly one of the most popular bays on the island and always much frequented by families. A boat service runs between here and St. Peter Port which provides some splendid coastal views. There is a pebbly foreshore which gives way to white sand at half tide. The walk to the bay is long, but pleasant, winding through wooded countryside. The half-way mark is Le Chalet Hotel which was the first dwelling on Guernsey to have electric lighting at the beginning of this century. Then it was a private house belonging to a skilled mechanic who harnessed a dynamo to a stream which runs down the valley. Although the bay is now a haven for small boats, it was once considered the ideal place for a raiding party to land. In the 18th Century, for instance, a press gang landed at Fermain, crept inland and made off with several unwilling recruits. There are still one or two German fortifications visible including a white-washed sentry box which now serves as a ship marker and is generally called “The Pepper Pot’. The bay has its own restaurant and toilets, and floats can be hired. Bathing is safe except at high tide when the bank of pebbles make it unsafe for those not experienced. A final interesting point about Fermain is that in the early 1900’s the bay was segregated— women had to go at one end and men at the other. Needless to say this ruling is no longer enforced.
"A boat service runs between here and St. Peter Port": This is completely outdated. While a legendary water-taxi and boat service ran between the St. Peter Port harbour and Fermain Bay for decades, the regular service officially ceased in 1993 when its long-time operator retired. Today, the bay is only reachable by private vessel or on foot. Commercial float and deckchair hire is no longer a standard daily fixture on the beach; visitors generally need to bring their own paddleboards or swim gear.
Le Chalet Hotel: The story regarding the skilled mechanic using a stream dynamo to create Guernsey's first electrically lit private home is a fascinating piece of local history, but Le Chalet Hotel is permanently closed and derelict. It closed its doors as a commercial hotel years ago, and recent developments have focused on converting the site into residential accommodation.
Petit Port: This bay can justifiably boast the finest stretch of sand on Guernsey and coupled with the magnificent cliff scenery and good bathing make it a popular spot (it is also possible to surf here). Unfortunately there is one snag which may deter older people from visiting the bay— there is a long, steep climb down into the bay with no fewer than 227 steps (I counted them) let into the cliff face. There is a secondary approach to the bay, but though gentler is very much longer and not without danger. Not far from the top of the cliff is Mont Durand where silver was discovered in the 19th Century and an attempt was made to mine it commercially. This was a disastrous failure and today there is little left to serve as a memorial to the project. It was at Petit Port on July 14, 1940, that
a commando raid under the direction of LieutenantColonel Durnford Slater landed and scoured the area for information about the Occupation. Today the exploits are still discussed, and elaborated on, by the local people. The area also has some interesting rock formations including the circular mass of granite called “Cannon Rock”’.
"No fewer than 227 steps": Underestimated. The author's count is outdated. Due to modern cliff stabilization, path rebuilds, and repairs by the States of Guernsey, the official step count is over 270 steps (with some locals counting closer to 300 depending on where you start).
a commando raid under the direction of LieutenantColonel Durnford Slater landed and scoured the area for information about the Occupation. Today the exploits are still discussed, and elaborated on, by the local people. The area also has some interesting rock formations including the circular mass of granite called “Cannon Rock”’.
"No fewer than 227 steps": Underestimated. The author's count is outdated. Due to modern cliff stabilization, path rebuilds, and repairs by the States of Guernsey, the official step count is over 270 steps (with some locals counting closer to 300 depending on where you start).
Secondary Approach Danger: The "gentler but dangerous" alternative path mentioned is completely closed off due to severe, ongoing coastal erosion and cliff landslides. The steps are now the only legal and physically viable way to access the beach by land.
"It is also possible to surf here": Highly misleading. Petit Port is an extremely sheltered, enclosed cove on the south-east corner of the island. It rarely gets a surfable wave breakdown. Guernsey's actual surf scene is explicitly located on the west coast at beaches like Vazon Bay.
Moulin Huet: Only those who enjoy a walk are advised to visit Moulin Huet which is approached by a narrow track which has to be taken in single file. It is not the best bathing beach, as there is only sand at low tide, but swimming— and diving—can be particularly good in the numerous gullies here. Getting to Moulin Huet involves walking — along Water Lane before actually joining the path to the sea. This is extremely pretty and half-way along it there is an old fountain called the ‘“Wishing Well”. If you seek good luck put your foot over the water and wish! There is a beach kiosk at Moulin Huet with chairs spread out on the cliff-side.
Moulin Huet: Only those who enjoy a walk are advised to visit Moulin Huet which is approached by a narrow track which has to be taken in single file. It is not the best bathing beach, as there is only sand at low tide, but swimming— and diving—can be particularly good in the numerous gullies here. Getting to Moulin Huet involves walking — along Water Lane before actually joining the path to the sea. This is extremely pretty and half-way along it there is an old fountain called the ‘“Wishing Well”. If you seek good luck put your foot over the water and wish! There is a beach kiosk at Moulin Huet with chairs spread out on the cliff-side.
Single File Access Track: While the footpath gets narrow, it is wide enough for two people to pass comfortably in most sections, though oncoming foot traffic does have to step aside in the tighter, steeper bends
"Beach Kiosk... with chairs spread out on the cliff-side": Outdated. While a traditional, basic beach kiosk operated at the valley base for decades, the site has been completely transformed into the bohemian Renoir Tea Garden. Instead of just chairs scattered loosely on the cliff-side, there is a beautifully terraced, intimate garden café featuring modern outdoor seating booths and wooden decking overlooking the spectacular bay views.
Saints Bay: One more of Guernsey’s secluded coves which has a shingle beach (except at low tide when a little sand is exposed) and presents every facility for enjoyable bathing. Approached by a long winding lane, the bay has its own small pier which is used by local fishermen. This also serves as a diving stage and an ideal point for a man after a day’s fishing to settle down. Deck chairs and floats can be hired and there is a restaurant for soft drinks and snacks. In the past the bay has been a busy harbour, and in fact there is a stone monument commemorating this fact lying in the sea! Originally it stood by the harbour but as it got in the way of their gun sights, the Germans uprooted it and deposited it into the bay during the Occupation. Another point of interest is the well in La Ruette du Navet which is credited with having the power to cure eczema.
The Café/Restaurant: The text mentions a restaurant for soft drinks and snacks. Today, this is primarily known as the highly popular Saints Bay Kiosk located right at the top of the slipway. It serves homemade food, coffee, tea, and quick bites.
Saints Bay: One more of Guernsey’s secluded coves which has a shingle beach (except at low tide when a little sand is exposed) and presents every facility for enjoyable bathing. Approached by a long winding lane, the bay has its own small pier which is used by local fishermen. This also serves as a diving stage and an ideal point for a man after a day’s fishing to settle down. Deck chairs and floats can be hired and there is a restaurant for soft drinks and snacks. In the past the bay has been a busy harbour, and in fact there is a stone monument commemorating this fact lying in the sea! Originally it stood by the harbour but as it got in the way of their gun sights, the Germans uprooted it and deposited it into the bay during the Occupation. Another point of interest is the well in La Ruette du Navet which is credited with having the power to cure eczema.
The Café/Restaurant: The text mentions a restaurant for soft drinks and snacks. Today, this is primarily known as the highly popular Saints Bay Kiosk located right at the top of the slipway. It serves homemade food, coffee, tea, and quick bites.
Hiring Deck Chairs/Floats: While standard in classic mid-20th-century tourist guides, current regular services emphasize kayak or equipment hire depending on the seasonal operators rather than traditional deckchair stands.
The 18th-century structure guarding the bay is officially known as Saints Tower No.14. Often mistakenly called a Martello tower, it is actually a distinct Guernsey Loophole Tower.
he tower was built between August 1778 and March 1779. At the outbreak of the American War of Independence, France joined forces with the Americans against Britain. Because the Channel Islands sit just off the French coast, they were in immediate danger of invasion.
In response, the British government constructed a chain of 15 identical loophole towers around Guernsey's coastline to act as a unified defensive shield
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